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^Confirm oil leaks when you get the oil change done. If a shop does it, ask them to report where oil is leaking from, if you aren’t doing this yourself.
Then, check the PCV Valve AND the hoses, make sure you don’t have a vacuum leak. Get a compression test after all of this if things don’t improve.
^Great picture.
Also, if the bolts are rusted in place it’s okay to use a penetrating oil like PB Blaster, let it soak for a couple minutes and then try it again.
Remember, as you hold stationary the ‘nut’ on the filter itself with one wrench, twist the bottom bolt on the fuel line clockwise IF you reaching downward from the top of the engine OR twist counter-clockwise IF reaching ‘up’ from under the vehicle. Depending on filter location, etc.
^He lives in Venezula, I believe a 10w-40 Euro spec’d oil would work well.
Is this a petro/gas or diesel app? How hot ‘are’ the ambient temperatures during the summer days? How cold are the winters? Lowest vs average for both please.
There are some crucial factors in extending your Oil Change Interval(OCI).
It’s best to get a Used Oil Analysis performed after a 5,000-7,500 mile OCI to determine engine health and potential for extending the intervals safely, repeatedly.
BITOG is a great place to post up your report or to get help with moving forward in that area.
Variables consistent of but are not limited to:
Operating conditions(extreme temps, short trips, etc)
Current engine health(foreign contaminents…fuel dilution, silicon entry, coolant intrusion)
Typical engine history on oil(is it a good candidate for extended OCIs to begin with?)
A functioning PCV system(including the PCV valve). (If clogged PCV system or inoperable PCV valve, the crankshaft area wont breathe and causes the oil to oxidize faster; thus leading to premature breakdown of oil life > deposits > varnish > caking towards sludge = bad for extended OCIs.
Lube health after performing an extended OCI(did it shear out of grade, flash-point too low)
Checking oil filtration and insoluble/soot values to see if the engine has excess carbon deposits in suspension, etc.
Crucial to a Passenger Car Motor Oil apps, is the retention of Total Base Number, the ability of the oil to neutralize harmful acids, if it’s too low even with everything else in check the engine will start to have increased corrosion of metals(soft metals first). So, oil pressure my be good, and even other things in line but TBN gone = bad.
This is why it’s good to verify how YOUR engine with YOUR driving conditions + habits = resulting oil health/engine response at the end of a longer OCI. Go 7,500 miles and read up about oil on the BITOG site. Google search that, it’s the first result.
^Plausible experience, each person’s “mileage may vary”, if you will. There are plenty of fuel additives with solvents, like you mentioned, on the market. Other’s have actual ‘detergents’ which are considered ‘better’ for different reasons. The difference is a solvent is fast acting while a detergent needs time(so, if you use a PEA containing/formulated fuel system cleaner like Techron or Red Line’s SI-1 or Amsoil Pi, as some of the favorites that I know of). This means it’s best to use it for a full tank and not to drive through this tank as if on a road trip, for instance. It’s best to keep PEA based detergents in the system as long as possible.
Also, in cars with engines that are harder on oil, like you mentioned, it is best to wait until the end of your interval before using a fuel additive, use that tank up and then change the oil.
Some applications aren’t in need, per se, but each app varies. Most of what I’ve learned is from sites like BITOG; referenced the post before your’s. I’ve learned about what products contain the goods I’m after, and the best method of using them. Some apps can respond well to your solvent based. A popular product now is “Kreen”, an oil additive and fuel additive sold online by KanoLabs(considered haz mats so purchase in small containers to avoid shipping fees). It’s like a much stronger solvent based cleaner as compared to Marvel Mystery Oil(a decent Upper Cylinder Lube with mild solvent-based cleansing properties, can quite a noisy fuel pump for instance), so it’s somewhat more like B-12 Chemtool, but this stuff has been used by several posters on the BITOG site with results. No one has had adverse results, folks with sludge engines have used it(bought used, you know the story), piston soaks, fuel system treatment, etc.
There are some products that market to clean and are simply lubes. Sea Foam is a popular product, some don’t like it because it’s basically alcohol dilluted in pale oil, amongst other aspects of the formula. A friend of mine is into remodeling/home repair work and has experience with the chemicals that you mentioned.
I would describe myself as someone that enjoys learning, has read and found about good products from end users, not paid folks or just advertisements, etc. I’m young and am building experience. I’ll share what I know and point you to those who know more, as there are definitely those to be certain. BobIsTheOilGuy.com…great site for forum chat regarding chemicals, etc. Posting up used fluid analysis, the works. Some site sponsors like Pennzoil, Mobil1, to name a few. I’ve posted some of Eric’s videos on that site as well.
Anyway, that site has sub-sections of the forum dedication to fuel additives and also oil additives. Great reads.
Quoted From wafrederick:
My nieghbor Ken’s wife Becky had a 1999 or 2000 Chevy S10 with the 4.3.Someone talked her into using synthetic oil in this S10 she had.Sounded like something was falling apart.Drained the synthetic out and poured in convential oil which the noise went away.
Not because of the synthetic oil…OR you simply heard a lighter oil on startup at cold temp when metals in engine are most contracted than conventional offers.
Could have been a dry start or bad oil filter, sometimes pumps lose their prime, etc etc. can’t just assume guy.
^That is completely untrue.
Oils can be mixed together as long as they are of the same PCMO or diesel type. The sludge was present before use of that blend and it is simply a coincidence the sludge happened to be there ‘still’ after the fact.
Bad maintenance practice leads to sludge, not mixing fluids or even choosing one oil over another. Did you even bother to find out the previous maintenance history of said vehicle? Completely irresponsible to blame the blending of two oils.
I guess ‘synthetic blends’ out there are sludging up vehicles left and right? W;)
Please, go educate yourself on BITOG. Google it.
Quoted From JPSaxMan:
Another way I know of doing it is how my gf’s father taught me (I’m sure many of you know of this method). After any and all brake work done and there is bleeding to be done, make yourself a brake bleeder. This is simply a cleaned and empty soda or water bottle (20 oz) with a hole cut in the top (large enough to accommodate a brake hose). The brake hose can come from a master cylinder bleeder kit, or you can most likely select some clear tubing sized and cut to fit at a hardware store. Fill the empty bottle with enough brake fluid to submerge the end of the brake hose in the bottle. Insert the other end of the hose onto the brake bleeder screw on your caliper or wheel cylinder. Loosen the brake bleeder screw, and pump the pedal until you can see no more air bubbles in either the hose or bottle of brake fluid. Boom, done. You may have to do the other wheels if you find that there is still air in the system. Hope this helps!
^This. +1
I’ll add:
Most cars have a BLEED ORDER, that is to say bleeding wheels in a series/1 after another. Best to do that, IMO.
Also, IF your Master Cylinder(brake or clutch in M/T actually) is without air and you want to change ‘some fluid’…if its already dirty from rubber deterioration etc…then use a syringe or bulb type(infants ears/nose etc) and suck some used fluid from the cylinders at the fill point > top off with more fresh fluid. A lazy way, I know, but doing this once fixed a squishy brake pedal, may have pulled some air up the line? IDK for sure. Just be sure when doing any brake/clutch system bleeding not to let the reservoir get empty/too low. Keep adding/topping off between bleeding.
Some products are a waste, most good “Fuel System Cleaners” contain PEA, which is a detergent and not a solvent. You shouldn’t need Fuel System Cleaner(FSC) to pass emissions. If that were the case, simply run a few takes of premium and take the test with premium fuel in the tank.
Some good ones are as follows(PEA containing):
Red Line SI-1 (I = as in Igloo)
Amsoil Pi
Gumout REGANE
Gumout REGAN High Mileage
BG44K^Those are generally the ACTUAL best, not just ‘favorite’.
Other’s function simply as an Upper Cylinder Lubricant, especially in apps that don’t like alcohol(ethanol) containing fuels that USA uses these days. Lucas fuel treatment product is one of these, too expensive for it’s uses as an UCL, not a great cleaner AFAIK(as far as I know).
Sea Foam is ‘okay’ as a cleaner, really more of an UCL because the effects wear off quite fast after use, if you noticed an improvement in idle and throttle response in the first place that is. I get that ‘temporary’ improvement in feel/idle but it goes away fast with Sea Foam use. I only use that VERY occasionally. Personally, I use one of the above in the list before ‘most’ oil changes. Depending on your Oil Change Interval(OCI = mileage between oil changes) every 3,000 may be too frequent; where as 1 oil change every 7,500-10,000 would do well to have a FSC added to the tank prior to the oil change. Best not to introduce fresh oil to more contaminants right away by adding the cleaner after an oil change or at the same time = shorter oil life.
For this reason, most people prefer to use Marvel Mystery Oil(MMO) as an UCL, 2 ounce/5 gallons is the general rule of thumb, BETTER to slightly under-dose than OD and cause your octane to drop some. MMO is cheapest, but has some lubricant and solvent properties. Those are maintenance type fuel additives between oil changes. Another popular one, for older engine at least(FI not DI) is oil that is TC-W3 certified, basically meaning an asheless lubricant(no metal additives to leave behind soot of any kind that is). Use the cheapest between TC-W3 and MMO, TC-W3 is EASIER to overdose mind you. Only 2 ounces / 10 gallons if using TC-W3. FYI = find those certified oils in boating departments of stores or a boat store. Marine shop, etc.
If you have a really neglected engine and can change things such as the fuel filter after additive use then a product that can be purchased online called Kreen is a sleeper product, growing in popularity on forums such as BITOG(google that).. It can be used to clean up a ‘mildly-moderately’ “carbon deposit/varnish covered engine. Can be added to fuel or oil. Of course, if you have actual sludge in your engine, best to manually clean with valve cover(s) removed if possible, then clean the bottom end(with oil pan removed), before continuing clean up efforts with solvents. If you don’t clean manually, don’t use additives. That simple. Instead use a High Mileage oil or synthetic oil on 3,000 MAX oil change intervals for a while before using solvents). That way hardened chunks won’t break free clogging oil passages or the pickup screen/tube in the oil pan.
Getting ahead of myself, but there are products that will have measurable benefits to fuel system cleaning. Some of those can be used added to oil(not on a continual basis but for a specific purpose to address a KNOWN issue like severe examples above, better safe and under-dose/gradually build up treatment than to kill shot your engine/fuel system with Overdose.
Some ‘cleaners’ really aren’t that great at cleaning, if you want solvent B-12 chemtool is powerful. They also make a parts cleaner solvent, which ‘could’ be used to fill a crankcase(not to start the engine mind you!) after an oil change in order to soak the bottom end(crud on oil pan/crankshaft/oil pick up tube or screen)…some have soaked their engine after dropping the used oil with parts cleaner for a couple of days with some sort of heater on the pan, then drop the drain plug on that > refill with cheaper conventional oil at idle > change oil a 2nd time then you are G2G.
First, find out what you want to address, then pick your product. For fuel system cleaning use one of the initial products I mentioned. Any UCL product is better for ‘maintenance dosage’ use. In other words, minimal concentrations. Read each products instructions for use as cleaning application(some UCL ask to over dose really in the ‘hopes’ of using their product to clean when its best in conservative use).
Combustion Chamber Cleaners are also available(Mopar CCC, Amsoil Power Foam, GM Top-End cleaner)…if you suspect heavy varnish/lots of carbon deposits in combustion chamber(poor performance/pinging under moderate-heavy acceleration), those products mentioned are ACTUAL foam spray cleaners that you spray into the Throttle Body(dont do that on engines equipped with MAF sensors, must be ingested a different way if at all), and you basically soak the engine by cutting it off after ingesting entire contents of can. Ideal in summer/engine full temp. Cans usually state to only soak for 10-15 minutes and then restart, but its best to wait 2 hours or so before restart so product can soak/penetrate as much crud as possible. Let it idle for a few minutes, rev the throttle some, then go for some Wide Open Throttle driving(safely mind you!) to expell what was disolved.
When using a top-end cleaner, I use them AFTER fuel system cleaning, since the fuel system’s crud will enter the combustion chamber. It doubles as a way to clean the TB too(using top-end cleaner via the TB).
After expelling, I change the oil. As some deposits etc will be remaining in oil, lots of solvent use may bring viscosity down so prolonged use after ‘may’ be somewhat risky.
Any questions or clarifications let me know.
^This is wrong. You can’t tell much definitively about how well an oil is holding up by how dark or not it is.
One oil may have superior cleansing ability, and will keep the crud/deposits/combustion contaminants in a ‘suspended’ state, thus the oil will look darker. While another may not clean very well and appear ‘cleaner’ longer, but that does not give you an indication of the condition of your engine.
That being said, most of the brand namer oils; Amsoil/Castrol/Mobil1/Pennzoil/RoyalPurple/Valvoline etc, are all superb generally speaking.
There would probably be little to no life expectancy change between most BRAND NAME conventional oils, they are very good these days. Especially favorites by most oil gurus is Pennzoil in the Yellow Bottle(aka PYB). Good shot a molybdenum and boron, good amount of calcium and starting Total Base Number(aka TBN); which is needed to neutralize the acidity build up which happens as a by-product of operation(combustion, contaminants etc).
On the other hand, you ‘may'(some vehicle that require a better lube or simply perform that smaller percentage better) have longer engine life with a high-end synthetic. TBN retention, retention to shearing and HTHS (high temp high shearing) numbers and the overall formulation can be likened to cheap insurance to give your car a bit more ‘head room’ to work with(it is compared to gas and actual car insurance expense anyway)
Still, to prove one way or another you would have to measure wear patterns, clearances etc from the same engine driven in AS CLOSE to the same real world environment as possible; one serviced with a high-quality synthetic and the other a high-quality conventional, to really get a good idea.
Your car will probably not know the difference.
On the other hand, synthetic ‘can'(stressing the dependency being relative to your vehicle/operating conditions/current engine conditions as of today) allow for extended Oil Change Intervals(less servicing). Generally speaking, synthetics have proven to last longer and newer cars have longer intervals; many having calibrated Oil Life Monitoring systems to have advanced algorithms based on how the car is driven and operating conditions. This is all based on the use of conventional oil. Some vehicles can go longer on synthetic. This is generally needed to be verified by use of used fluid analysis(generally $20-$50 or so).
Lastly, too frequent oil changes has shown to increase wear. Why? Because Virgin oil introduced into your engine has 2 prior additive components: Anti-wear and dispersant/detergent additive packages.
Once ‘fresh’ oil is introduced into an engine, ‘first’ the fresh cleansing part of the add pack goes to work on the ‘left overs’ from the last oil used. It ‘disperses’ gathered particles and is generally attempt to cleanse so ‘wins’ the surface affinity battle initially after an oil change. During this phase, the engine will have a small blip in wear metals(not anything serious of course), but it does occur anywhere from the first few hundred to up to 1,000 miles or so into a new OCI.
As that process comes to an end(the initial cleansing calms down) the anti-wear properties start to take over the ‘surface affinity (basically meaning the predominant relationship between lubricant and metal). So, too frequent oil changes introduce a time of cleansing(which is a good thing) at the sacrifice of increased wear. Again, not severe but actually taking place.
It’s sort of like the old sales pitch about ‘99% of wear occurs at startup’ etc. Okay, startup from an oil change or because of a leaking Anti-drain back valve? ADBV and a synthetic will help with better oil flow at startup and in extreme cold.
So, as you can guess, longer oil change intervals on synthetic( that are NOT being driven too many miles or in extreme service conditions such as 1-2 mile trips in sub-32 degrees) can be left in longer so you get more miles, a ‘still clean’ engine, and less initial wear from overly frequent oil changes.
UPDATE: Took the car by a shop, mentioned the symptoms, they did a ‘courtesy’ test drive for 10 minutes. The verdict is only the clutch so far. I’ll probably have the input shaft bearing on the mainshaft replaced anyway, when the clutch is done.
Quoted From ptrhip:
my 88 chevy has a 350 and ive replaced the valve cover gaskets the pcv valve but it is still buring oil i was wondering if it could be the oil pan gasket
You would be seeing oil in the place where it’s parked if it were from the pan.
How much oil is being lost over how many miles(for example 1 quart every 1,000 miles)???
It could simply be losing a lot past worn or broken rings on the cylinder heads, allowing too much blow by. This can lead to a clogged EGR system. Also, even though you replaced the PCV valve, check the hoses/pipes to make sure they are free of obstruction.