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Alright, my apologies for not gathering the data first before offering advice. It is a good product, so I just threw that out there in the event it’s transmission related, though at this point it’s probably mechanical in nature and the fluid would only be masking the problem even if it had ‘some’ benefits in your app.
The description of the problem ‘sounded’ as if the bogging was immediately upon entering 4th gear. Is it right after the shift, etc. It would seem strange if a fuel pressure regulator would be the issue, since less fuel would be needed in 4th comparatively to the more power hungry lower gears; that is unless this happens during WOT/full load and not under light acceleration. Is there difference in your 4th gear bogging symptom relative to load entering or while in 4th gear, does it ever get better in 4th? This is a 4 speed auto, does it have O/D or a lock-up type torque convertor?
ADDED: Were older Honda transmissions stillon Z1 or DW1? …and personally I’ve had great results with Amsoil’s MTF in the old VX S20 5 speed with the taller gears.
Please tell us you used an OE distributor and it you replaced the rings correctly, you should not have oil in the wells already.
^Thank you for your reply. I’ll be doing these things and reporting back, but for now I believe the question was answered. I’ll bump this up with any updates in the future.
+1 guys.T)
Quoted From RockstarMotorsports:
I think I may have found my problem..I was checking fuses today and saw that fuse #31 was blown under the dash. On the manual it says “starter signal” could it be that?
No…YES!!!
…and get that wiring re-done eventually anyway. If this fuse keeps blowing you’ll need to reman or replace the starter, BTW.
^Another note on coolant, at least for older Honda’s that have been on some 2-eha containing dex-cool like anti-freeze/coolant, the Beck Arnley label has their own OE compatible fluids out. They have a pretty impressive lineup, the advantage to Type-II or their clones is longer service intervals and the best option for post 2000 models. I bet the Civic I have has used the ‘wrong’ type for years now, before I ever got it. It seems to be alright, but just for peace of mind I’ll be draining the radiator and performing some rinse flushes with distilled water until I can add the type I want.
Their pages on this ‘new’ lineup:
http://www.genuineoefluids.com/
The eLocator for nearby shops and FAQ are worth reading.
…I can get the concentrated “Premium Green” for about $23 before tax, and blend to get the right 50/50 mix I’d be looking for in my area, away from domestic coolant formulation and more suitable for Asian apps in general. Not bad for concentrate. Just because a few places locally have it that’s all.
^What would cause an ICM to go out? Jump-starting improperly, extreme tempt/rough terrain over time???
^Sounds like it was the screw, then. So, you definitely had to adjust it tighter? Did it appear as though someone had tampered with the factory seal of the adjust screw itself?
^I appreciate your follow up on the advice given. I’m having issues on an older Civic I believe is relative to the IACV, but that’s for another thread. Thanks for sharing your experience.
When you removed the connector for IACV, was it with the engine off after warming to full-temp? Then you proceeded to restart?
In my manual for ‘setting the factory idle’ back to default/checking the idle, it specifically mentions to get the vehicle to operating temperature, then shut the engine off in order to remove the IACV connector. When restarting the car initially assist the engine RPM to stabilize at 1,000 yourself and then slowly relax the throttle until it idles safely on it’s own: proceed to check idle speed relative to speed screw itself. For my manual, it states somewhere around 420 +/- 50 RPM with the IACV not in use and without any load(the cooling fan not running, headlights off etc etc). Only the parking brake applied since equipped with a m/t, IIRC.
^Yeah, that’s what my manual basically says in more detail after the IACV disconnected check(for idle screw setting part of the steps). Now that you mentioned it, I’ll listen for hissing at the idle screw for kicks when I go to bash on my IACV later. Been rainy today/this week so we’ll see. I suspect my IACV is sticking closed at times when hot, but I don’t get a CEL, just rough idle. I’ve got another thread going for that. Anything I get Honda + idle issue I’m always reading these threads to figure out how they turn out. It sounds like you solved your issue and did a bang up job at that.
+1.
^It’s a 2-pin like this ‘replacement’ offering from Standard Motor Products. The OE is about the same price b4 shipping as the aftermarket units seem to be around $190 or so, I’ll be buying OE if I can confirm it’s the IACV. I just hope cleaning can put this off. First, the screwdriver test during the lug symptom and then manually removing/cleaning and replacing the gasket/screen.
Not sure if the idle screw was adjusted b4 but I could always post pics of the ‘seal’ that is there currently. IIRC, it looks like it was disturbed previously so IDK…
^That’s a good thing to remember. I’ll get to test the ‘bleeder’ valve, too. Mine is where the top hose goes into the block front side of the engine, not the rear as in eric’s vid on bleeding the cooling system.
The shop that did the timing belt service 18 months ago used Prestone 50/50 pre-diluted. So, I’ve been wanting to eventually drain/rinse with distilled water/install Honda Type-II or at least older Premium Green that does not include 2-EHA (dexcool ingredient that ‘may’ harm certain rubbers over time).
Perfect chance to use the new Lisle spill-free funnel I got like in the vid! xD
That’s probably the best thing I can do for now, the tapping w/ screwdriver method going forward. I have seen that vid. I also found out only the VX in this era has an EGR and Constant Vacuum Control unit. So, that’s another beast instead of just fast idle valve. Not sure how much different the VX is from other Civics, but those are the obvious differences I’ve noted.
The cooling system could afford a check for air bleeding, I’ll give it a go with one of those handy spill-free funnels like in the vid eric has out.
Thanks for the replies so far.
^If you buy a big brand name, whatever is available locally, then you should be just fine. A Used Oil Analysis or a Virgin Oil Analysis(on the new stuff) would confirm any suspicions. I don’t have any information on your vehicle.
It IS normal for the oil level to go down over the course of time on a Japanese car like a Honda. I don’t know about Suzuki history/engines, relative to oil consumption either. My Civic goes through 1 quart every 4,000 miles or so. Changing oil brands can sometimes spike oil consumption. That is considered normal, using too thick of an oil simply to not have the level drop is an incorrect ‘fix’. You should check the dipstick and keep oil at the ‘full’ mark if possible. Start by checking the oil while re-fueling.
You are probably using too thick of an oil @ 20w-50. Try a Euro spe’d 10w-40 or even 0w-40. Their operating temp performance is the same, just less wear on startup from an overly thick oil. That said, I don’t know the brands locally to you and how good their synthetic is. If you are buying conventional that’s another story. The choices for that is more limited.
If it were me I’d try to find some Mobil1 0w-40 or a HDEO(heavy duty engine oil), for driving locally here if it really needed at least a 40 multi-grade. The summer here sounds about like what you just mentioned. Sometimes it gets to 100, but stays in the low-mid 90s on ‘hot’ summers, very mild summers hovers around 90 more. As cool as 60s at night.
Find out if there is a lab that performs oil sampling near you. Ask for pricing, you want Total Base Number included in the analysis. Typically just 3 ounces or so need to be mailed/shipped in a sealed container put in a tightly packed box so no leaks. See if anyone online has a website for oil sample testing(used oil analysis) in your country.
^Have you ever owned a Civic before?
It sounds like it could be a seal leaking oil onto the hot exhaust causing the burning smell. You’d have to safely get under the vehicle and look around the engine for signs of oil on engine/exhaust externally.
Regarding being low on oil, verify there aren’t huge leaks externally(caking, etc), and change your oil(have you yet in this new used car you just got)?
Monitor the oil level once every fuel tank, at least a couple of times a week after driving to full temp and letting it come home sit for at least a few minutes. I check my engine cold but also have a filter that doesn’t allow many dry starts(silicon Anti-drainback valve), so my reading while checking the engine cold ‘might’ read higher than if I had checked it after just turning the vehicle off.
If you have oil leaks externally, find the source. If you don’t know what its called, take pictures and post them.
Sometimes, caked on crud on top of your transmission case will burn at hot enough temperatures. Is your engine halfway or lower on the temp gauge during idling? Do you have hot air? No overheat condition, but confirmed amount of ‘actual’ consumption rate would be best going forward, unless major leaks exist that you can relay.