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I wanted to add I didn’t realize this thread was mistakenly given to dreamer after the old forum swapped to the new one. My OP is on page 2 and is broken as are some of the replies in this thread.
Long-story short, part of an external coolant leak in this thread was related to the thermostat housing having RTV sealant; which was started to develop a slow leak. This was fixed with a new OE thermostat + gasket(no RTV).
Since, I have gotten the actual head-gasket job done as ‘finally’ it could be confirmed to be leaking down from a coolant pressure test(I suppose others were not done ‘over night’?) and so I’ll still be doing followup UOAs/observing coolant levels.
Thanks again all!
I wanted to add I didn’t realize this thread was mistakenly given to dreamer after the old forum swapped to the new one. My OP is on page 2 and is broken as are some of the replies in this thread.
Long-story short, part of an external coolant leak in this thread was related to the thermostat housing having RTV sealant; which was started to develop a slow leak. This was fixed with a new OE thermostat + gasket(no RTV).
Since, I have gotten the actual head-gasket job done as ‘finally’ it could be confirmed to be leaking down from a coolant pressure test(I suppose others were not done ‘over night’?) and so I’ll still be doing followup UOAs/observing coolant levels.
Thanks again all!
@EricTheCarGuy and everyone else, I finally got confirmation with a cooling system leakdown test + spark plugs removed to confirm the head gasket ‘finally’ showed confirmed signs of ingestion visually. Before, the cooling system would hold pressure and I suppose no one checked on ingestion via the plug removal method.
I did have to use a shop to get this work done, but I learned a lot in this process to be able to grow at doing more DIY work.
I’ll be doing follow-up UOA to confirm no more coolant ingestion. That was my first clue, after all. At least, as far as ‘where is my coolant going’.
The thermostat replacement was done and the external leaks seem to be done. It’s kind of funny seeing a clean re-surfaced head with new intake/exhaust gaskets sitting on such a dirty block.
banana:
Thanks again!
PS: The shop that did the work raised the engine slightly when putting things back together. Does where the engine sit in the bay have to be precise? I noticed the idle resonance has changed(since it still occasionally will have the low ‘shudder-like’ idle at full temp.)
@EricTheCarGuy and everyone else, I finally got confirmation with a cooling system leakdown test + spark plugs removed to confirm the head gasket ‘finally’ showed confirmed signs of ingestion visually. Before, the cooling system would hold pressure and I suppose no one checked on ingestion via the plug removal method.
I did have to use a shop to get this work done, but I learned a lot in this process to be able to grow at doing more DIY work.
I’ll be doing follow-up UOA to confirm no more coolant ingestion. That was my first clue, after all. At least, as far as ‘where is my coolant going’.
The thermostat replacement was done and the external leaks seem to be done. It’s kind of funny seeing a clean re-surfaced head with new intake/exhaust gaskets sitting on such a dirty block.
banana:
Thanks again!
PS: The shop that did the work raised the engine slightly when putting things back together. Does where the engine sit in the bay have to be precise? I noticed the idle resonance has changed(since it still occasionally will have the low ‘shudder-like’ idle at full temp.)
It’ll be crusty, right? Not necessarily wet? Best to pull the plug after it has been driven and still is warm(for looking into the cylinder purposes for coolant presence) or even stone cold/doesnt matter?
It’ll be crusty, right? Not necessarily wet? Best to pull the plug after it has been driven and still is warm(for looking into the cylinder purposes for coolant presence) or even stone cold/doesnt matter?
^Thanks for the link. I’m ALSO wondering if it’s possible a bad IM gasket could leak coolant into the runner for cylinder #4, like this video shows as far as the closeness of the cross-over. (about 13 minutes into the video)
I suppose I could check cylinder #4 with the plug removed to see if it looks relatively clean. The car just drives super nice aside from hesitation upon moving at times, so it just doesn’t seem like a blown head gasket. If anything, I’m hoping at worse it’s “just” a gasket leak only. I have had the car for almost 3 years and this is the first oil report with a dramatic showing of coolant. The one before was the first sign to monitor.
^Thanks for the link. I’m ALSO wondering if it’s possible a bad IM gasket could leak coolant into the runner for cylinder #4, like this video shows as far as the closeness of the cross-over. (about 13 minutes into the video)
I suppose I could check cylinder #4 with the plug removed to see if it looks relatively clean. The car just drives super nice aside from hesitation upon moving at times, so it just doesn’t seem like a blown head gasket. If anything, I’m hoping at worse it’s “just” a gasket leak only. I have had the car for almost 3 years and this is the first oil report with a dramatic showing of coolant. The one before was the first sign to monitor.
November 10, 2012 at 5:13 am in reply to: 91 Civic Timing Belt, Water Pump, Crank & Cam Seal #475708^To be clear, it’s in between the transmission and the engine. There is a cover that keeps it hidden and sealed, Eric is referring to that cover in his previous post.
November 10, 2012 at 5:13 am in reply to: 91 Civic Timing Belt, Water Pump, Crank & Cam Seal #476056^To be clear, it’s in between the transmission and the engine. There is a cover that keeps it hidden and sealed, Eric is referring to that cover in his previous post.
^So, does the cam/crank both line up with the mark?
^So, does the cam/crank both line up with the mark?
Well, I’ve yet to actually do the head gasket job. :huh:
Eric, in place of a proper straight edge for checking the block and the head for warp, what sort of straight edges can be used that are truly straight edges?
This UOA just showed me it’s probably the HG after all. I need to still do the job.
Any particular technique on cleaning the old gasket material off?
Thank you.
Well, I’ve yet to actually do the head gasket job. :huh:
Eric, in place of a proper straight edge for checking the block and the head for warp, what sort of straight edges can be used that are truly straight edges?
This UOA just showed me it’s probably the HG after all. I need to still do the job.
Any particular technique on cleaning the old gasket material off?
Thank you.
UPDATE:
My recent Used Oil Analysis has confirmed coolant entry and it’s gotten worse, from about .3% to 2% of the fluid volume. The sodium ppm has gone up from 140s to over 1000(however, 400 of which is additive in Valvoline’s conventional fluid).
Therefore, ppm of coolant/contaminant entry PLUS the obvious increase in block wear and now the bearings showing wear leads me to the conclusion that head needs to come off.
It’s a shame, since the valve-train looked so good. What are the chances I’m catching this early guys? I’ve got several reports before since owning the car.
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