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As I saw a few times after plugging in the computer, the IAC is working … but who knows how much opened it should be? 😉 The same with the MAP sensor readings … what kind of pressure/vacuum should I see when idle? And while the engine is off, should I see atmospheric pressure? Is the MAP sensor an accurate device? Can I tell it’s broken if it shows 960hPa, when really the atmospheric on barometer is lets say 1005hPa?
And as of fuel injectors leaking, shouldn’t the idle be harsh / unstable? My car’s idle is stable.
As I saw a few times after plugging in the computer, the IAC is working … but who knows how much opened it should be? 😉 The same with the MAP sensor readings … what kind of pressure/vacuum should I see when idle? And while the engine is off, should I see atmospheric pressure? Is the MAP sensor an accurate device? Can I tell it’s broken if it shows 960hPa, when really the atmospheric on barometer is lets say 1005hPa?
And as of fuel injectors leaking, shouldn’t the idle be harsh / unstable? My car’s idle is stable.
I also thought about IAC and leaking injectors, but … sometimes, like today (when it’s hot) my car starts just fine. If the IAC would be clogged, I think it would be a permanent problem.
Second thing – the injectors … if they are leaking, wouldn’t my car puff some dark smoke after starting the engine? And what else would happen if they were leaking? And why would they leak only when it’s hot outside? When it’s winter, the car can sit even for several days and starts normally, while with leaking injectors it should be flooded.
I also thought about IAC and leaking injectors, but … sometimes, like today (when it’s hot) my car starts just fine. If the IAC would be clogged, I think it would be a permanent problem.
Second thing – the injectors … if they are leaking, wouldn’t my car puff some dark smoke after starting the engine? And what else would happen if they were leaking? And why would they leak only when it’s hot outside? When it’s winter, the car can sit even for several days and starts normally, while with leaking injectors it should be flooded.
Quoted From suleman09:
i did post all the information possible. thats the only times its making the sounds, none of the times you are asking about.And it doesn’t make a growling sound, when turning to the max when standing still? It may be something with power steering – remember, that when moving and turning, there are some forces that try to straighten your wheels, but the power steering pump pushes the other way, so you’re able to turn – so power steering pump is under bigger load when making U-turn, than when you’re standing still.
Is it cold where you live? I had to change my p/s fluid, because last winter when it was colder than -18*C the p/s pump was whining like a supercharger for half a minute after starting the engine. Maybe your fluid is old/worn and under load it doesn’t lubricate as it should?
Is it making a noise when moving, or when standing still? If it makes a noise when moving, does it make the noise both when going forward and backwards? Information like this will help to solve the problem. When you post a question, post as much info as you can.
If it’s a kind of scratching noise, it could be the plate behind the brake rotor. If it’s bent, it can make a noise when turning.
Fix it before it breaks http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=67RFy7z2pBU
I’ll write something that may happen or that you should change AFTER you buy a car.
For instance, Eric says that you need to check every button etc. I checked it when I bought my car. And what? After <50km when I went home, there was a problem with electric wiring. Some lights weren't lighting, it had a current drain that left the battery dead after 2 days of not using the car etc. When I bought the car, EVERYTHING was ok. Engine had no oil spots (but wasn't cleaned for sale), electrics were ok etc.
Another thing that is popular in Poland after buying a car is to change all of its fluids (oil, power steering fluid, brake fluid etc) and the whole timing gear assembly (rollers, water pump, belts) unless the selling guy has solid papers, that he changed it few months ago (but even then it's recomended to change these things) . People like to hack the odometers, so if you see a '96 car with 96kkm, it probably has 196kkm or 296kkm or something in between.
Also what I did when buying a car was ... to push it to the limit. Check if it's accelerating as it should, if there aren't any misfires. Also drive slowly with steering max to the left and next to the right to check if joints (in FWD cars) aren't clicking. Do the same also on reverse, because then more weight is pushing front of the car towards ground, so more force is applied to the joints and it's more probable they will click.
OK so I got another set of questions (more or less the same as above, but in shorter form):
1. Is the airflow better after installing vent visors when windows are opened about 2 inches? Or is it the same as before?
2. When windows are fully down, do you have any wind draft? The same or less as without vent visors?I thought maybe they work like diffusers, speeding the air [that comes in through air vents]. I think they`re not for me. Sometimes I need to rescind back windows and fully down the front ones, to have enough airflow if it`s really hot. If I would have got wind deflectors, they would decrease airflow. Now it`s kinda designed to suck air in through airvents/front windows, and get out through rescinded back ones. If I would have wind deflectors, I don`t know if I wouldn`