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I am definitely going to replace plugs and wires. And if the budget allows it both coils. But I’m going to do a compression test first. I have great fire at all plugs now but I have seen it change when you add compression to the plugs.
I most likely just landed a new job and will be almost doubling my salary. If that happens I’m just going to either part out or sell it and buy a newish car or truck. Found a really nice ram 2500 diesel with a manual trans that I really want.
You should be able to used a large screwdriver to operate the mechanism whit the hood open that’s how I free’d up the one on my old ranger. Keep working it back and forth while hitting it with some good penetrating oil.
If that doesn’t work it could be a bad cable “rusty/pinched” or maybe the latch has been changed or removed for some reason and the latch it self is too low. The holes that the mounting bolts go through should be slotted not all are.
I would like to apologize in advance for spelling and such! For some reason my phone isn’t letting me see what I’m typing so I can’t fix anything. Using autocorrect and hopping for the best!
Some more info I forgot to add, the vehicle currently does not have an accessory belt on it. It was parked when it started skipping and sat for a couple years. When I first went to look at it we thought the engine was seized ended up being the alternator. I just found out yesterday that there is no fuel cap on it. Just a plastic bag shoved in the filled neck I drained the gas and put five gallons of fresh gas in thinking water was the culprit. That made no changes except it starts a little easier now. I also added a fair amount of drygas to try and rid any moisture from the system. Gauge cluster has an intermittent problem where the mileage will not illuminate ” I had no idea of the miles until just the other day and I’ve owned it for almost a year.
Previous owner said it has new wires and plugs, wires look new plugs not so much. One coil pack is new the other came off an escort I’ve got same PN and that car ran fine. Injectors look very rusty but as stated before my scan tool is telling me they are all opening fine. I have 55~62 psi of fuel pressure “crappy gauge”. When I learn more I will post.
Really hoping to get this fixed I live in upstate NY and don’t want to drive a camaro this winter.
I may give up and get an hour of diag at the local Ford dealer
Thanks for the advice!
It’s is three or four of the cylinders that are missing. This particular engine has two coil packs each feeding four cylinders. The thing that stumps me is if I unplug the drivers side coil there is no change. So then I unplug the passenger side coil after plugging the other one in and still no change. I just found some info on these coil packs and how to check and see if they are getting the right signals from the ecu. I will try and get a video posted of how it currently runs. The gas in the oil is making me think is a compression or ignition problem. I’m going to try and track down a compression tester for now. Budget is kinda tight right now my camaro is soaking me dry, new steering column “not cheap”. If I can get a video I will link it in a post.
However it does seem to shake and miss on startup almost like the 3.0 eclipse that my friend has that we just had to put four valves in due to a broken timing belt. The original owner said he’s never had the timing system serviced and now I’m wondering if the chain slipped!