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I recently diagnosed and replaced a bad AFR sensor on my car. Like the other posters alluded to, an outlier reading can generate an error code or you may also have a pending code in memory. Clear the codes and see if they reappear.
Also, many ODBII code readers give a generic description with an error code and Honda will have a more specific description, which was more helpful in my case. The Helms manual for my car (TSX) states that a P0141 is a malfunction with the heater circuit in the secondary heated O2 sensor – I don’t know if this applies to your car or not however.
If the above is true, then Eric’s video shows you how to diagnose a faulty heater circuit with a multimeter. The black leads go to the heating element while the blue and white wires go to the O2 sensor. Measure the resistance between the black leads. If the heating element is good, the resistance should be on the order of tens of Ohms. A bad heating element will have a resistance 100 kOhms or higher because no current can flow through the heater, and a code is generated because the emission system is not operating at some prescribed level.
Finally, if the O2 sensor requires replacement, try to use a direct replacment. From what I’ve read for my car, Hondas can have issues with universal sensors, especially the ULEV models. You might want to consider the Denso or NGK part (whomever made the OEM part for your car).
I am currently diagnosing an emission problem with my Honda and have been researching AFR sensors. I’m no expert on the subject.
From what I can tell, the air-fuel ratio sensor is designed to be more sensitive for measuring O2, but over a narrower range than a conventional oxygen sensor. They look the same, but they have some internal differences. As the AFR is more sensitive, the signal changes should appear more dramatic compared to the signal secondary/downstream oxygen sensor. Maybe this is what you see as spiking in the signal.
Also, I would expect both sensors operate in analog mode, and the signals are digitized at the computer/control module input because heat would be a problem for a digitizer intergrated into the sensor body.
Again, I am not an expert.
I am currently diagnosing an emission problem with my Honda and have been researching AFR sensors. I’m no expert on the subject.
From what I can tell, the air-fuel ratio sensor is designed to be more sensitive for measuring O2, but over a narrower range than a conventional oxygen sensor. They look the same, but they have some internal differences. As the AFR is more sensitive, the signal changes should appear more dramatic compared to the signal secondary/downstream oxygen sensor. Maybe this is what you see as spiking in the signal.
Also, I would expect both sensors operate in analog mode, and the signals are digitized at the computer/control module input because heat would be a problem for a digitizer intergrated into the sensor body.
Again, I am not an expert.
My friend had a Fiero. It was fun, but not practical. Little storage space (unless you want to ditch the spare tire), 2 seats, low to the ground, poor winter handling, etc. He had trouble locating a replacement radiator pipe, and that was 15 years ago. I also remember those cars having problems with the interior catching on fire – if I remember correctly, the gas tank would rupture into the interior during a collision. Where is the rust? – the body panels are fiberglass.
I probably will not buy a turbocharged vehicle again after having a love-hate relationship with one. They can be quick little devils, but the additional components lead to more issues, and the expense can add up quickly. Also, you have to be religious with oil changes and the priming procedure, and the car will probably require premium fuel.
My friend had a Fiero. It was fun, but not practical. Little storage space (unless you want to ditch the spare tire), 2 seats, low to the ground, poor winter handling, etc. He had trouble locating a replacement radiator pipe, and that was 15 years ago. I also remember those cars having problems with the interior catching on fire – if I remember correctly, the gas tank would rupture into the interior during a collision. Where is the rust? – the body panels are fiberglass.
I probably will not buy a turbocharged vehicle again after having a love-hate relationship with one. They can be quick little devils, but the additional components lead to more issues, and the expense can add up quickly. Also, you have to be religious with oil changes and the priming procedure, and the car will probably require premium fuel.
[quote=”grg88″ post=73851]One thing that you probably should NOT do, use an ozone generator. Years back we had a small smoky house fire, and the restoration guys used this ozone generator, which did kill the smells, however, every ball-point pen in the house seized up, and every rubber band just crumbled to pieces. Hate to think what it would do to all the rubbery things in a car’s interior, not to mention the other car parts when the ozone leaks out the vents.[/quote]
The ozone probably pulled the sulfur out of the rubber bands causing them to deteriorate. IMHO, a reputable detailer would know the safe dosage and treatment time for a given car’s interior. Anyways, a professional would give you several alternatives.
Also, I would change the cabin air filter if the car has one. There are ones (Fram, I believe) that contain baking soda and activated carbon to remove odors.
[quote=”grg88″ post=73851]One thing that you probably should NOT do, use an ozone generator. Years back we had a small smoky house fire, and the restoration guys used this ozone generator, which did kill the smells, however, every ball-point pen in the house seized up, and every rubber band just crumbled to pieces. Hate to think what it would do to all the rubbery things in a car’s interior, not to mention the other car parts when the ozone leaks out the vents.[/quote]
The ozone probably pulled the sulfur out of the rubber bands causing them to deteriorate. IMHO, a reputable detailer would know the safe dosage and treatment time for a given car’s interior. Anyways, a professional would give you several alternatives.
Also, I would change the cabin air filter if the car has one. There are ones (Fram, I believe) that contain baking soda and activated carbon to remove odors.
If the outer diameter of the tire is increased, speedometer and odometer readings will be inaccurate. For a one inch increase, the error will probably be ~5%.
Also, you may find a considerable price difference and availability between 16-inch and 17-inch winter tires.
If the outer diameter of the tire is increased, speedometer and odometer readings will be inaccurate. For a one inch increase, the error will probably be ~5%.
Also, you may find a considerable price difference and availability between 16-inch and 17-inch winter tires.
Check eStore.honda.com. Enter your vehicle information and navigate through the “automatic transmission” section. They have diagrams along with the part number and description.