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I believe that the threads on NGK plugs have a special plating/coating which acts as anti-seize for the first installation.
You can use the drain-and-refill method to “dilute” the water in the system with coolant: Drain the radiator, add 1.25-gal of 100% coolant, circulate to mix and distribute the two fluids in the system. If my math is correct, then
- First drain and refill: ~30% mixture.
- Second drain and refill: ~52% mixture.
So, it looks as one more drain-and-refill procedure (with the volumes listed) should bring you close to the 50/50 mixture. It’s probably worth checking the boiling and freezing points of the final mixture with a tester though.
If the bolt head is not damaged, then use an impact wrench or a breaker bar with an impacting motion. If the bolt head is damaged, then use bolt extractor using an impacting motion. If the slider pin is spinning freely, then use an open-end wrench (hex cap or notched at the top of the pin body) to hold the pin while removing the caliper bolt.
Is it possible to pry the top part of the cap off the threaded part and then remove the threaded component with pliers, pry tool, etc?
[quote=”Vlad2″ post=192820]Only when it is really really cold.. Close of sub-zero Fahrenheit[/quote]
I had a similar problem when it was near 0*F. Upon startup, a “Brake system error” would appear for a second and disappear, but there were no issues with braking. I initially suspected the check valve, but had to replace a sticking caliper and flush the fluid, and haven’t experienced the issue in 2 years. So, flushing the fluid may be worthwhile.WD-40 is not suitable for brakes, and may contaminate the pads. Use a silicone product for the slider pins and an appropriate product for the pads and shims.
Honda offered the “Air Refiner” accessory that would be installed in the compartment in the rear decklid, although it was not popular in the US. It was early cabin air filter with a remote control and a recirculation fan – a product of the 90’s.
What are your plans for the paint?
I had a faulty torque converter lockup solenoid on a similar GM vehicle that caused the car to stall abruptively, and it would not restart until it had a short (15 min) rest, although it only occurred after leaving the freeway as the car shifted out of OD. It’s something worth checking.
Does the starter crank, but not turn over the engine?
1. Since the starter was recently replaced, check all connections. It might worth checking checking and cleaning the battery connections.
2. There should be at least 11.5 VDC measured at the starter, and the electrical draw should be 80A or less.
3. It might be worth checking if the neutral safety switch is causing an issue.
4. Although unlikely, I had a problem with corrosion with the ECU. The problem was initially intermittent, but became worse over time. The corrosion prevented the car from starting and generated an error message for every system. I believe there was a TSB for the issue.
+1 for ratcheting crimping tool. I have one at work for terminating fiber and coax, and it reduces my contribution to the swear jar.
I cycled through the pages using the numbered buttons and the “Prev” and “Next” buttons, and there were no issues with the page numbers or indices.
[quote=”JohnMark” post=183463]Is there any way to rule out the hoses/orings/valve without taking the pump off and apart again? The symptoms now are that the car will drive perfect about a mile from starting then will lose power steering for around 30 seconds or hit a short rough patch in steering then return to normal again then mess up again in a mile (repeat process again). Does this give any hints as to the cause? There are bubbles in the reservoir after parking and checking.[/quote]
Just an idea to test without disassembly: You might be able to perform a vacuum test if you have a hand-operated vacuum pump with gauge (e.g. Mity Vac) and a rubber stopper that fits in the reservoir cap, although intermittent problems can be hard to replicate. And, the system might normally leak when vacuum is applied.
+1 to air infiltration. I would check the hose connections and o-ring. Also, there was a recall for the inlet hose, and IIRC, it would crack and leak fluid into the engine bay.
Another suspect is the pressure control (aka flow control) valve in the pump. If it sticks intermittently, then it would explain the lack of power assist. The valve can be tested by connecting the valve to compressed air with a section of tubing and submerging the outlet into a cup of water (Helm, pg 17-17). A faulty valve will leak air when the pressure is below 14.2 psi and generate bubbles while the valve is submerged in water. Unfortunately, the valve cannot be purchased separately, and a new or re-manufactured pump is needed.