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When I started out, I bought a fundamental/core set of tools (maybe ~100 pieces) including SAE and metric sockets and combination wrenches, ratchets, extenstions, a screwdriver set, jack and jackstands, etc. I expanded my collection when I need a particular tool/set for a task or when I know that tool/set will be useful in the future. I now have an eclectic set of Craftsman, Husky, GearWrench, and Ace tools. They have served me well (DIY use), and have not needed to peform a warranty exchange (yet). I’ve seen rebadged Pittsburg tools in hardware stores, but I have no experience with them.
An OBDII scan tool will probably be useful to you. I have a bluetooth wireless adapter (ELM327, I believe) that connects to my phone via the Torque Pro app. There were no instructions, and it took some effort to pair the device with my phone, but it works well enough for me.
Before you splice the connections, does your car have a wideband air-fuel/primary sensor? If so, it may not work properly as a secondary oxygen sensor – the computer may throw an error when it doesn’t see the appropriate voltage signal from the sensor. The LEV and ULEV Honda models are picky with O2 sensors.
Before you splice the connections, does your car have a wideband air-fuel/primary sensor? If so, it may not work properly as a secondary oxygen sensor – the computer may throw an error when it doesn’t see the appropriate voltage signal from the sensor. The LEV and ULEV Honda models are picky with O2 sensors.
I thought the logic behind this method is that the solvent(s) burned hotter than gasoline, and the elevated exhaust temperatures “coerced” the contaminants from the active sites on the catalyst bed, and thus restored the efficiency of the catalytic converter. However, I don’t know if any of the solvents in lacquer thinner, toluene, MEK, etc. burn significantly hotter than gasoline.
Going with the MythBusters theme, although dangerous to both yourself and car, is it possible to “thermally purge” the fouling particles from the converter by artificially heating the exhaust, like with a torch, while the engine is running?
I thought the logic behind this method is that the solvent(s) burned hotter than gasoline, and the elevated exhaust temperatures “coerced” the contaminants from the active sites on the catalyst bed, and thus restored the efficiency of the catalytic converter. However, I don’t know if any of the solvents in lacquer thinner, toluene, MEK, etc. burn significantly hotter than gasoline.
Going with the MythBusters theme, although dangerous to both yourself and car, is it possible to “thermally purge” the fouling particles from the converter by artificially heating the exhaust, like with a torch, while the engine is running?
Time (and salt) wears the exterior while mileage wears the mechanical parts. But, 150k miles isn’t excessively high mileage for a Honda if the car has been well maintained (and has the records to prove it). Also, there’s a semi-extensive list of maintenance items at the 100k mark, like the timing belt (if the car has one), and some people prefer to get a new(er) car at this point.
I don’t put a lot of weight on things people say, like “highway miles” or “well-maintained”. Well-organized maintenance records back those claims. A proper vehicle inspection will tell you if the car is in great shape, if it needs x,y,z performed, or to walk away.
The cost for common maintenance items like air filters, brakes, belts, fluids, etc. are fairly normal (I usually do these items myself). In my experience, the repair costs are not excessive compared to what friends and family experience, although every car seems to have at least one exception. I haven’t had any major issues yet though either.
Time (and salt) wears the exterior while mileage wears the mechanical parts. But, 150k miles isn’t excessively high mileage for a Honda if the car has been well maintained (and has the records to prove it). Also, there’s a semi-extensive list of maintenance items at the 100k mark, like the timing belt (if the car has one), and some people prefer to get a new(er) car at this point.
I don’t put a lot of weight on things people say, like “highway miles” or “well-maintained”. Well-organized maintenance records back those claims. A proper vehicle inspection will tell you if the car is in great shape, if it needs x,y,z performed, or to walk away.
The cost for common maintenance items like air filters, brakes, belts, fluids, etc. are fairly normal (I usually do these items myself). In my experience, the repair costs are not excessive compared to what friends and family experience, although every car seems to have at least one exception. I haven’t had any major issues yet though either.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=77317]EDIT:
@Hanneman, heh, didn’t see your reply until I posted mine. I have considered the RSX, but after a little research, I thought you can’t get one for $5,000 (same with the TSX I think)?As for the Accord vs Civic, I really think I will be able to decide my preference from test driving them both.
Thanks for the advice about mechanic inspection. One problem though, I may be testing cars in various locations away from where I am familiar, is it OK to just go to any independent mechanic that you find in the area?[/quote]
Cast a wide net and see what you get. When I was looking in 2007-08, I found a few RSXs at a reasonable price that were not well advertised. My friend (above) got a great deal, although the car was located 3 states away.
Regarding the inspection, I honestly don’t have a good answer, aside from finding a trustworthy mechanic is like finding a good spouse. Not that independent shops and a frachise chains are bad, but a dealership may be your best bet in unfamiliar territory. Hopefully, others will provide you with their opinions.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=77317]EDIT:
@Hanneman, heh, didn’t see your reply until I posted mine. I have considered the RSX, but after a little research, I thought you can’t get one for $5,000 (same with the TSX I think)?As for the Accord vs Civic, I really think I will be able to decide my preference from test driving them both.
Thanks for the advice about mechanic inspection. One problem though, I may be testing cars in various locations away from where I am familiar, is it OK to just go to any independent mechanic that you find in the area?[/quote]
Cast a wide net and see what you get. When I was looking in 2007-08, I found a few RSXs at a reasonable price that were not well advertised. My friend (above) got a great deal, although the car was located 3 states away.
Regarding the inspection, I honestly don’t have a good answer, aside from finding a trustworthy mechanic is like finding a good spouse. Not that independent shops and a frachise chains are bad, but a dealership may be your best bet in unfamiliar territory. Hopefully, others will provide you with their opinions.
I don’t think the Accord is “better” than the Civic, it’s the next larger vehicle in the Honda lineup, and there are some styling differences. I had a 2001 Accord and my friend got the Civic at about the same time – similar but different. Also, Honda added the V6 option to the newer Accords (I think those cars had more transmission problems though).
What about the RSX? It is the closest successor to the Integra. The same friend above has one now and it’s a nice car. Ironically, my next car was the TSX aka rebadged EuroAccord.
Regarding German cars, I only knew one Audi person, and they only leased a car every 3 years. Also, I’ve only heard things secondhand about VW, and they were mostly complaints. My boss is German, and he has yet to own a German car here – mainly due to higher cost and a different model lineup here than in Europe.
I forgotten most of my “first car” experience. Sadly, that wasn’t too long ago. My advice is to learn as much as you can about the cars you’re interested in, especially their faults and ownership costs. Also, have a professional inspect the vehicle before you buy – this has saved my neck a few times. Similary, detailed maintenance records can provide more useful information than a CarFax report.
I don’t think the Accord is “better” than the Civic, it’s the next larger vehicle in the Honda lineup, and there are some styling differences. I had a 2001 Accord and my friend got the Civic at about the same time – similar but different. Also, Honda added the V6 option to the newer Accords (I think those cars had more transmission problems though).
What about the RSX? It is the closest successor to the Integra. The same friend above has one now and it’s a nice car. Ironically, my next car was the TSX aka rebadged EuroAccord.
Regarding German cars, I only knew one Audi person, and they only leased a car every 3 years. Also, I’ve only heard things secondhand about VW, and they were mostly complaints. My boss is German, and he has yet to own a German car here – mainly due to higher cost and a different model lineup here than in Europe.
I forgotten most of my “first car” experience. Sadly, that wasn’t too long ago. My advice is to learn as much as you can about the cars you’re interested in, especially their faults and ownership costs. Also, have a professional inspect the vehicle before you buy – this has saved my neck a few times. Similary, detailed maintenance records can provide more useful information than a CarFax report.
I’ve had good luck with Hondas.
One of my former housemates bought a used BMW for what he thought was a good deal but turned out to be a money pit. It spent more time in the shop (and stuck in the driveway because he couldn’t afford to fix it) than it did on the road.
Another one of my good friends bought a Focus for ~$3000. It runs a little rough and needs an occasional repair, but it has gotten her from Point A to B for 3 years and 50k miles now.
I’ve had good luck with Hondas.
One of my former housemates bought a used BMW for what he thought was a good deal but turned out to be a money pit. It spent more time in the shop (and stuck in the driveway because he couldn’t afford to fix it) than it did on the road.
Another one of my good friends bought a Focus for ~$3000. It runs a little rough and needs an occasional repair, but it has gotten her from Point A to B for 3 years and 50k miles now.