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December 13, 2013 at 12:34 am in reply to: can air travel inside or outside electrical wire? #568635
[quote=”imagine44″ post=82069]Not absolutely sure (haven’t taken one apart) if this patent applies to this Bosch oxygen sensor, but it should at minimum show the principle of what’s being talked about.
Well, I stand corrected regarding the patent examiner. However, they offer several methods for diffusion of air to the reference sensor, especially in the second to last paragraph:
1. Gaps produced by thermal expansion of the housing.
2. Gap in the signal wire, although they mention the introduction a gap or tube between the stranded wire and insulation.
3. Gap in the outer tubing, referenced as “braided armor”, that is sealed/caulked at the sensor housing.
4. Tube or empty wire to carry air to the reference sensor.[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]Do you know if this problem happens for the non-S version of the Cooper?[/quote]
I honestly don’t know. We parted ways within the year. I didn’t pursue the problem, and I’m guessing she turned the car in at the end of the lease. However, the problem(s) should have been solved by now.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]That sounds like pretty good MPG for the Accord. Another thing I forgot to mention, is it true that only the EX model of the Accord has ABS Brakes? This feature is pretty important to me, being my first car safety is important, and also the fact that the roads can get pretty icy during the winter here.[/quote]
I believe that was true for the generation between 1998 and 2002, and I believe ABS became a standard feature on all models from 2003 to the present. I was raised to pump the sin out of the brakes during winter. I ocassionally find myself pumping ABS brakes.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]My dad drove the Civic a while ago and was not impressed by the acceleration of the vehicle (he liked the Jetta better, and got that instead), he did not drive the Accord however. I guess what it comes down to is that this will all have to be determined when test driving the cars.[/quote]
In my experience, both cars have adequate acceleration for their respective-sized 4-cylinder engines, like being able to accelerate to avoid an accident. Of course, they will be slower compared to a V6 engine while having better fuel efficiency. Also, my mom had 2001 Accord Executive/Value edition (below DX) with the same engine as the EX. That car had noticeably better acceleration than my EX, which was probably weighed down with motors, wiring, and controls for all of the accessories.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]I don’t know if you can help me with this, but is there any place I can look for an estimated annual cost of ownership for these cars? It would be helpful to be able to compare the repair/maintenance costs of something like the Accord vs. Jetta.[/quote]
It’s by no means exhaustive, but it provides a decent estimate for major makes, models, and classes of vehicles:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/what-that-car-really-costs-to-own/index.htmThanks again for the help :)!
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]Do you know if this problem happens for the non-S version of the Cooper?[/quote]
I honestly don’t know. We parted ways within the year. I didn’t pursue the problem, and I’m guessing she turned the car in at the end of the lease. However, the problem(s) should have been solved by now.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]That sounds like pretty good MPG for the Accord. Another thing I forgot to mention, is it true that only the EX model of the Accord has ABS Brakes? This feature is pretty important to me, being my first car safety is important, and also the fact that the roads can get pretty icy during the winter here.[/quote]
I believe that was true for the generation between 1998 and 2002, and I believe ABS became a standard feature on all models from 2003 to the present. I was raised to pump the sin out of the brakes during winter. I ocassionally find myself pumping ABS brakes.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]My dad drove the Civic a while ago and was not impressed by the acceleration of the vehicle (he liked the Jetta better, and got that instead), he did not drive the Accord however. I guess what it comes down to is that this will all have to be determined when test driving the cars.[/quote]
In my experience, both cars have adequate acceleration for their respective-sized 4-cylinder engines, like being able to accelerate to avoid an accident. Of course, they will be slower compared to a V6 engine while having better fuel efficiency. Also, my mom had 2001 Accord Executive/Value edition (below DX) with the same engine as the EX. That car had noticeably better acceleration than my EX, which was probably weighed down with motors, wiring, and controls for all of the accessories.
[quote=”CarGuy123″ post=81943]I don’t know if you can help me with this, but is there any place I can look for an estimated annual cost of ownership for these cars? It would be helpful to be able to compare the repair/maintenance costs of something like the Accord vs. Jetta.[/quote]
It’s by no means exhaustive, but it provides a decent estimate for major makes, models, and classes of vehicles:
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/2012/12/what-that-car-really-costs-to-own/index.htmThanks again for the help :)!
Is the new indicator light for the daytime running lights? There might be some conflict or disable feature with the HID kit.
Is the new indicator light for the daytime running lights? There might be some conflict or disable feature with the HID kit.
My ex had a Mini Cooper with a supercharger. That car had problems starting, hesitation, and poor acceleration when the temperatures were 10F or lower. If I remember correctly, this was a fairly common problem for the Type S. The winters are fairly cold where I live, so I had to drive her to work from mid-January through February. I don’t know what your climate is like, but something that you may want to research if it applies to you.
My 2001 Accord would get about 30 MPG on the highway for speeds below 65. It dropped a little with a 72 MPH cruising speed. And, the efficiency dropped to about 25 MPG in winter. My 2008 “Euro” Accord with a 5-speed AT gets between 37 and 42 MPG with a 72 MPH cruising speed. I’m guessing the North American Accord would get about the same mileage.
I wouldn’t say the Accord is better than the Civic. The Accord is Honda’s midsized coupe/sedan while the Civic is the compact version. Both cars have comparable feature packages (DX, LX, EX, etc), while certain years of the Accord offered a V6 engine (and I think those had more problems with the AT). The Civic is smaller, so it’s easier to park in metro areas, gets better fuel efficiency than the Accord, but has less passenger and trunk space.
My ex had a Mini Cooper with a supercharger. That car had problems starting, hesitation, and poor acceleration when the temperatures were 10F or lower. If I remember correctly, this was a fairly common problem for the Type S. The winters are fairly cold where I live, so I had to drive her to work from mid-January through February. I don’t know what your climate is like, but something that you may want to research if it applies to you.
My 2001 Accord would get about 30 MPG on the highway for speeds below 65. It dropped a little with a 72 MPH cruising speed. And, the efficiency dropped to about 25 MPG in winter. My 2008 “Euro” Accord with a 5-speed AT gets between 37 and 42 MPG with a 72 MPH cruising speed. I’m guessing the North American Accord would get about the same mileage.
I wouldn’t say the Accord is better than the Civic. The Accord is Honda’s midsized coupe/sedan while the Civic is the compact version. Both cars have comparable feature packages (DX, LX, EX, etc), while certain years of the Accord offered a V6 engine (and I think those had more problems with the AT). The Civic is smaller, so it’s easier to park in metro areas, gets better fuel efficiency than the Accord, but has less passenger and trunk space.
I have the same problem, and it seems to follow me to different cars. I think that my boots bring snow and water into the vehicle, which condenses on the cold windows when the car is parked.
I’ve found that occasionally cracking the rear windows helps expel the humid air, but doesn’t completely solve the problem. Also, it’s easier to scrape the windows with something similar to a credit card.
I have the same problem, and it seems to follow me to different cars. I think that my boots bring snow and water into the vehicle, which condenses on the cold windows when the car is parked.
I’ve found that occasionally cracking the rear windows helps expel the humid air, but doesn’t completely solve the problem. Also, it’s easier to scrape the windows with something similar to a credit card.
imagine44: The amount of reference air would probably be the same as the amount of exhaust that needs to contact the sensor.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=81318]It looks like the reference air is brought in at the top of the sensor where the cap screwzs on and seals to the o-ring. The air is flowed in around the wires there is a accordion boot and filter.[/quote]
I was thinking the same thing. The diffusion rate of air through insulated, stranded wire would be very low, like um- or mm-per-hour, effectively being neglible. There is a lot more space for air to flow through the outer jacket/tubing that encloses the individual wires.
Bosch probably patented the splicing connector, and I doubt any claim about air flowing through the wires was accepted by the patent examiner, unless they had some absolute proof verifying the claim.
imagine44: The amount of reference air would probably be the same as the amount of exhaust that needs to contact the sensor.
[quote=”Raistian77″ post=81318]It looks like the reference air is brought in at the top of the sensor where the cap screwzs on and seals to the o-ring. The air is flowed in around the wires there is a accordion boot and filter.[/quote]
I was thinking the same thing. The diffusion rate of air through insulated, stranded wire would be very low, like um- or mm-per-hour, effectively being neglible. There is a lot more space for air to flow through the outer jacket/tubing that encloses the individual wires.
Bosch probably patented the splicing connector, and I doubt any claim about air flowing through the wires was accepted by the patent examiner, unless they had some absolute proof verifying the claim.
The factory service manual is available from Helms. I only have service manual. It is the size of a phone book and has all the information I ever needed and more, like the torque spec for every bolt on the car.
The factory service manual is available from Helms. I only have service manual. It is the size of a phone book and has all the information I ever needed and more, like the torque spec for every bolt on the car.
I too prefer nitrile gloves. I used to work in a university lab and started wearing gloves while handling laser dyes because I didn’t want bright pink stains on my hands. I didn’t know at the time that the properties that make a “good” laser dye also make the dye highly carcenogenic. Also, some of the solvents we used can easily permeate the skin. I once bumped something and a small splash of solvent landed on my forearm. Within 30 seconds, I could taste the chemical dissolved in DMSO. My coworker said that I made the worst o-face in history, but it certainly was an eye opening experience. After that, I got in the habit of wearing gloves when handling chemicals, even ones that are not considered hazardous, because the effects of long term exposure are not well-known. The habit has carried over somewhat to working under the hood, like brake work.
There is a slight loss in dexterity when first wearing gloves, but you learn to compensate fairly quickly. The trick is to find the right size glove as the sizing varies across different manufacturers and material types, and samples are a nice way to try before committing to a larger purchase.
I too prefer nitrile gloves. I used to work in a university lab and started wearing gloves while handling laser dyes because I didn’t want bright pink stains on my hands. I didn’t know at the time that the properties that make a “good” laser dye also make the dye highly carcenogenic. Also, some of the solvents we used can easily permeate the skin. I once bumped something and a small splash of solvent landed on my forearm. Within 30 seconds, I could taste the chemical dissolved in DMSO. My coworker said that I made the worst o-face in history, but it certainly was an eye opening experience. After that, I got in the habit of wearing gloves when handling chemicals, even ones that are not considered hazardous, because the effects of long term exposure are not well-known. The habit has carried over somewhat to working under the hood, like brake work.
There is a slight loss in dexterity when first wearing gloves, but you learn to compensate fairly quickly. The trick is to find the right size glove as the sizing varies across different manufacturers and material types, and samples are a nice way to try before committing to a larger purchase.
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