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The restore product contains particles copper, lead, and silver to fill the voids caused by wear, which may explain the flakes.
I would first remove the rust in the strut hole with a wire wheel, which might be interfering with fitment. Plus, the corrosion will continue, making future removal a nightmare. You should be able to press the strut into the fork by hand, although the strut (usually) has a protrusion that needs to be aligned in the fork. Light tapping from a rubber mallet shouldn’t hurt the strut, but don’t set your arm to “kill” mode.
Tangent: How did the fork bend that much?
[quote=”Nogard1973″ post=203361]… I really don’t want to get something that lights up everything for me but blinds oncoming drivers for a half mile or so.[/quote]
Thank you for considering everyone else on the road.The short answer: The bulb type should be matched to the optical design of the housing because different bulbs have different emission patterns. Incandescent halogen and Xenon HID bulbs emit light equally in all directions (isotropic), which have a complex Fresnel lens and reflector. Also, the housing for Xenon are designed to filter out UV light. LEDs display a divergent cone, which do not colliminate well with a housing for halogen bulbs. So, if you want to take the LED route, it would be best IMHO to find specialized bulbs for OEM housings or a kit with s bulb and housing.
Sylvania has the SilverStar line of halogen bulbs that are brighter than standard halogens. The downside is cost and shorter lifespan (about 1-1.5 years if I remember correctly).
Yes, the Akebono ProACT is a good pad. They’re similar to OEM with less dusting. The OEM has a deeper initial bite while the ProACT has a more linear response. Both are a good choice for a daily driver.
[quote=”T16″ post=202971]I think the original rear rotors are on the car. (90k miles) I was thinking of just replacing pads and not doing anything to the rotors. Will this greatly reduce pad life?[/quote]
It depends on the condition of the rotors:
- If the rotor is near the minimum thickness, then the rotor will not be able to dissipate heat properly.
- If the rotor has discolored from overheating, then the rotor will not be able to dissipate heat properly.
- If the rotors have scoring, rust build near the edges, excessive run-out, then the pad life will be reduced or yield a vibration.
My 0.02: You have approximately half of the pad life for the rear. If you don’t have issues, like binding from corrosion, then replacing the pads and rotors is not necessary. Clean and re-lubricate the components, and let the proverbial “sleeping dog lie”. Alternatively, I would replace the rotors along with the rear pads. Also, remove the corrosion from the hub before installing the new rotor if you live in area that uses a lot of salt in winter.
My only complaint with ProACT pads is reduced braking performance while the friction material transfers to a new rotor. It only lasts a week after installation, but it can make you doubt the pad quality, whether errors were made during installation, etc.
[quote=”wonderbread” post=202511]I was thinking of sending a sample to get tested…somewhere? Is there a place I can send my current oil to see if it still has life left in it after 10k? [/quote]
The cost of an oil analysis is about the same a DIY oil change (monthly special at most auto parts stores). So, I just follow the manufacturer’s recommended interval.
Complete speculation: Some vehicles specify changing the filter with every other oil change, and a filter rating of 15k-20k miles conveniently matches the newer oil change intervals.
The pump shouldn’t remove or vaporize the PAG oil. The pump should remove air in the system, degas the PAG oil, and vaporize any residual volatiles (mostly water) from the system.
Rotary vane pumps typically release a small mist of pump oil from the exhaust port when it’s pumping against atmospheric pressure. Some pumps have a ballast valve to reduce the misting of pump oil. Also, water vapor will cause the pump to emit smoke from the exhaust port (actually, multiple things can cause the pump to smoke).
Ditto to the above posts.
Many places do not accept returns for O2 sensors. So, if a universal sensor is incompatible with the vehicle, then you will have to pay for two sensors.
I’ve had good luck with direct-fit sensors from the OEM supplier (e.g. Denso, NGK, etc.) that can be found in the aftermarket for less than the dealer.
I’ve only had an issue with the doors when the fob battery is low. The first press may drain enough energy that the signal is weak while the battery slowly recovers. It’s a good place to start.
The door lock setting can be changed so that all doors unlock when the unlock button is pressed once. The procedure is given on page 110 of the owner’s manual, which can view online here. If all the doors unlock, then the solenoids are functioning correctly and the problem is elsewhere, like a control module.
A weak battery can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins. It might be worth checking, although it seems unlikely here.
The shop manual for the 04-08 Acura TSX states to lubricate all the areas that SMA did. I assumed it was a common procedure for Honda. I too live in an area where a lot of road salt is used in winter, and years of rust buildup can cause the pads to bind. Personally, I wouldn’t lubricate the slider pins with the Permatex purple goo, rather silicone paste.
[quote=”relative4″ post=201695]… if the new welds don’t break, something more important will.[/quote]
Ditto. The manufacturers would not have added complexity and cost unless it fixed some issue.The flex joint contains accordion-style pipe under the mesh that allows the system to flex under different conditions instead of breaking. Also, the joint with the spring bolts is designed to pivot about the gasket as the engine tilts under load.
Toothpaste contains mild abrasives that will remove the colored byproducts from UV exposure. Also, the abrasives round the edges of a scratch making it less visible. Restoration kits usually include an abrasive polishing step. A reputable kit will also include a sealer that protects against further UV degradation and fills in the scratches to improve the clarity.