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some times things like this just happen i would psi test the system and find were it is coming from? one of the two lines there may have a small hole in it from moving them around? but if you were not having this problem before it most likely is not going to b much wrong unless you have just ran it real hot??
MOST OF THE TIME THE NOISE THAT YOU ARE HEARING IS COMING FROM THE INSIDE OF THE COMPRESSOR AND WILL NEED TO BE REPLACED AND IF I WAS DOING IT I WOULD GO AHEAD AND FIX IT BECAUSE THE LONGER IT RUNS THE MORE CONTAMINANTS YOU WILL HAVE IN THE SYSTEM. that said have u hooked up to some gauges and looked at your high and low side?
IF THAT VTEC IS NOT WORKING THIN I AM WITH [DAFIRNZ ] I WOULD SUSPECT LOW OIL OR CONTAMINATED OIL ARE YOU SURE IT IS NOT WORKING?
most of the time a 420 code is a bad cat ( i do no that ERIC THE MAIN MAN HAS A VIDEO ON HOW TO CHECK THIS ] but in my experience the 420 is a bad cat most of the time / most of the time the code p1457 is the evap canister vent shut valve maybe this will help if you need to no how to check this stuff let me no.
buy u a new window regulator and u will fix the problem . i have found that most of the time if u will buy the lift motor a regulator together it is the price as if you bought just one of the parts buy it self. around 90 bucks at advance auto here at my local store
this sounds like a fresh air vent you can run the truck with out it but you do need to fix as soon as you can because without it hooked up it will allow water and or dirt /dust in the gear housing causing premature bearing failure maybe this will help
ok i just did one of these the other day that was doing the same thing on a 98 model it was the slave cylinder. i never could make since of it but it did fix the truck maybe this will help
Apply a light coat of oil around the camshaft oil seal.
Gently tap the new camshaft oil seal (A) into the cylinder head.
-1 Tap the camshaft oil seal in squarely.
-2 Tap the oil seal into the cylinder head about 0.5-1.5 mm (0.02-0.06 in.) from the surface of the cylinder head.
Insert the camshaft (B) into the cylinder head, then install the camshaft thrust cover (C). Always use a new O-ring (D).Check that the oil seal lips are not distorted.
Loosen the valve adjusting screws.
Set the rocker arm assembly in place and loosely install the bolts. Make sure that the rocker arms are properly positioned on the valve stems.
Tighten each bolt 2 turns at a time in the sequence shown below to ensure that the rockers do not bind on the valves.
Specified torque:
8 x 1.25 mm
24 N•m (2.4 kgf•m, 17 lbf•ft)
Apply engine oil to the bolt threads and flange
Install the injector base (A). Always use a new gasket (B).
Install the back cover (A), then install the camshaft pulley (B).
Portions of materials contained herein are sourced from American Honda Motor Inc., Co.
Copyright 2009 – 2013 Service Repair Solutions, Inc.
YOU HAVE TO REMOVE THE TIMING BELT/ THEN THE GEAR BOLTS /THEN THE BACK COVER AND THEN THE SEAL AND THEN PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER AND !!!!! SET THE TIMING !!!!1999 ACCORD – Timing Belt Removal
Special Tools Required
Holder Handle 07JAB-001020A
Holder Attachment, 50 mm, Offset 07MAB-PY3010A
Socket, 19 mm 07JAA-001020A or a commercially available 19 mm socket
Belt Tension Release Arm, YA9317, commercially available
Turn the crankshaft so its white mark (A) lines up with the pointer (B).Check that the rear camshaft pulley mark (A) and rear upper cover mark (B) are aligned.
Remove the front tires/wheels.
Remove the splash shield.
Move the auto-tensioner (A) with the belt tension release arm (B) to remove tension from the alternator belt (C), then remove the alternator belt.
Loosen the adjusting nut (A), locknut (B) and mounting bolt (C), then remove the power steering (P/S) pump belt (D).
Support the engine with a jack and wood block under the oil pan.
Remove the side engine mount bracket.
Remove the dipstick and tube (A); discard the O-ring (B).
Hold the pulley with holder handle (A) and holder attachment (B).
Remove the bolt with a heavy duty 19 mm socket (C) and breaker bar.
Remove the front upper cover (A), rear upper cover (B) and lower cover (C).
Remove one of the battery clamp bolts from the battery tray, and grind the end of it as shown.
To hold the timing belt adjuster its current position, screw the battery clamp bolt in as shown.
Tighten it by hand, do not use a wrench.
Remove the engine mount bracket.
Loosen the idler pulley bolt (A) about five or six turns, then remove the timing belt.
Portions of materials contained herein are sourced from American Honda Motor Inc., Co.
Copyright 2009 – 2013 Service Repair Solutions, Inc.!
DID YOU CHECK THE COMPRESSION ON ALL CYLINDERS AND DID YOU CHECK IF YOU HAVE SPARK ON ALL OR MORE THAN 1 CYLINDER
ests/Procedures:
1. Check the speed reading on a scan tool. If there is no reading, disconnect the Yellow and Purple wire from the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) and check the AC voltage from the sensor with the wheels off the ground and spinning.2. If the sensor is producing AC voltage (expect around 5 volts AC at about 30 Miles Per Hour (MPH), check the wires from the speed sensor to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). If OK, replace the PCM.