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Wow, Eric, thank you so much for posting this! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to write this out. I’ll get started almost immediately! I’ve already cut a lot of bad stuff out of my diet, withdrawal is right. I just need to get some exercise going and get fit. Again, thank you!!
Wow, Eric, thank you so much for posting this! I greatly appreciate you taking the time to write this out. I’ll get started almost immediately! I’ve already cut a lot of bad stuff out of my diet, withdrawal is right. I just need to get some exercise going and get fit. Again, thank you!!
Hey Eric, thanks a lot for this video! Can you share your basic gym routine? I am VERY in need of exercise but I just don’t know what to do for a whole hour!
Hey Eric, thanks a lot for this video! Can you share your basic gym routine? I am VERY in need of exercise but I just don’t know what to do for a whole hour!
Hey Eric, love the videos! I always get excited when I see such videos, because not only are they long, but I’m very interested in wiring as well!
With the help of a simple diagram I found online, I wired in fog lights on my own car. They never came with fog lights, so I did all the wiring myself without harnesses. To keep them from draining the battery, my low amp circuit from the switch was powered by the cigarette lighter power. So when I switch my key to accessory, the fog lights turn on, and turn off without a key. They don’t go off when high beams are used unfortunately, but I wasn’t even aware that was a law. I use them as “daytime running lights” for visibility.
I also passed the power cable through an existing grommet, makes things easier. But I mounted a custom relay on my strut tower in the engine bay. In hindsight, mounting it in the interior might have been a slightly better idea, but no big deal. Maybe someday I’ll redo it, but I won’t bother yet.
I’m not writing this as advice, just retelling my own experiences 🙂
I can’t wait to throw an HID kit into my fog lights. Surprisingly, they’re projector style so that makes the light output even better.
Hey Eric, love the videos! I always get excited when I see such videos, because not only are they long, but I’m very interested in wiring as well!
With the help of a simple diagram I found online, I wired in fog lights on my own car. They never came with fog lights, so I did all the wiring myself without harnesses. To keep them from draining the battery, my low amp circuit from the switch was powered by the cigarette lighter power. So when I switch my key to accessory, the fog lights turn on, and turn off without a key. They don’t go off when high beams are used unfortunately, but I wasn’t even aware that was a law. I use them as “daytime running lights” for visibility.
I also passed the power cable through an existing grommet, makes things easier. But I mounted a custom relay on my strut tower in the engine bay. In hindsight, mounting it in the interior might have been a slightly better idea, but no big deal. Maybe someday I’ll redo it, but I won’t bother yet.
I’m not writing this as advice, just retelling my own experiences 🙂
I can’t wait to throw an HID kit into my fog lights. Surprisingly, they’re projector style so that makes the light output even better.
I’m very in the middle. My car is a “reliable POS” 1996 Toyota Corolla, and I absolutely love the thing. A year and a half after I started driving, it was given to me by my parents. Long paid off, owned it since 1998. Bad clear coat, dings and dents everywhere, old and dirty. Even had two smashed in doors and a sagging headliner from being soaked by water entering the car through the damaged doors. Before that, it wasn’t driven for 6 or so years. When I took it in, I fixed everything possible and made everything as nice as possible. The mechanical portion of it never misses a beat, it’s in fantastic condition.
However, I ended up doing a lot of exterior work, including fresh paint and a whole new front end. Imported rare OEM parts from New Zealand (a Japanese market) and did a JDM front end conversion. All of it is genuine Toyota parts, no aftermarket mods to the front end! It looks stunning. I feel “the new car fear” when rocks come at me, I walk out of the car and look back with nothing but pride, but I also don’t mind scratches or minor dings in my dinged up doors. It’s a great middle ground. I freakin adore the car though, and I wouldn’t ever sell it.
I’m very in the middle. My car is a “reliable POS” 1996 Toyota Corolla, and I absolutely love the thing. A year and a half after I started driving, it was given to me by my parents. Long paid off, owned it since 1998. Bad clear coat, dings and dents everywhere, old and dirty. Even had two smashed in doors and a sagging headliner from being soaked by water entering the car through the damaged doors. Before that, it wasn’t driven for 6 or so years. When I took it in, I fixed everything possible and made everything as nice as possible. The mechanical portion of it never misses a beat, it’s in fantastic condition.
However, I ended up doing a lot of exterior work, including fresh paint and a whole new front end. Imported rare OEM parts from New Zealand (a Japanese market) and did a JDM front end conversion. All of it is genuine Toyota parts, no aftermarket mods to the front end! It looks stunning. I feel “the new car fear” when rocks come at me, I walk out of the car and look back with nothing but pride, but I also don’t mind scratches or minor dings in my dinged up doors. It’s a great middle ground. I freakin adore the car though, and I wouldn’t ever sell it.
Specifically on products, there are two types of quality. Actual build quality, and perceived quality. Build can be sturdiness, reliability, and materials. This is not very arguable, as good build quality shows in controlled tests. Perceived quality is how well its put together, good materials (especially in a car interior). This is where opinion kicks in, and you can argue day and night.
I’d gladly pay more for quality, which is why I buy most essential replacement parts from the Toyota dealership. Quality pays off in the end. And the cost of quality? Owning an old car and having to care for it! The 1996 Toyota 7A-FE engine is incredible quality, never giving out even under abuse, but having an old car in general is a responsibility.
In terms of labor, I personally don’t mind waiting and paying a little extra for good work. I haven’t found a shop so far that does amazing work, but I have found a shop that does decent work but is very honest and helpful. I give them work when I can’t do something myself, like alignments. Cheap work will always bite you in the ass eventually.
Specifically on products, there are two types of quality. Actual build quality, and perceived quality. Build can be sturdiness, reliability, and materials. This is not very arguable, as good build quality shows in controlled tests. Perceived quality is how well its put together, good materials (especially in a car interior). This is where opinion kicks in, and you can argue day and night.
I’d gladly pay more for quality, which is why I buy most essential replacement parts from the Toyota dealership. Quality pays off in the end. And the cost of quality? Owning an old car and having to care for it! The 1996 Toyota 7A-FE engine is incredible quality, never giving out even under abuse, but having an old car in general is a responsibility.
In terms of labor, I personally don’t mind waiting and paying a little extra for good work. I haven’t found a shop so far that does amazing work, but I have found a shop that does decent work but is very honest and helpful. I give them work when I can’t do something myself, like alignments. Cheap work will always bite you in the ass eventually.
Perfect timing on this video release! I happened to pick up some new suspension for my 1996 Corolla today from the UPS warehouse. BC Racing BR series coilovers. The reason I went for coilovers is that my suspension is literally dead, car scrapes speed bumps with only two people in it. Bounces like crazy, depresses really low, and makes a lot of groaning when going over bumps and potholes. OEM 17 year old suspension can do that. Replacing it with KYB gas filled struts, all new coil insulators and strut boots and bump stops and Tein S Tech springs would have cost me $800, plus having the springs installed into the new struts. So I tossed in an extra $195 and got myself completely assembled coilovers with damper adjustment for when I have family in the car. I’ll be installing them this Sunday and the strut design is nearly identical to your Odyssey.
That part with the spring flying out was terrifying though. I refuse to go near cheap spring compressors haha. Thanks a lot for the video!
Perfect timing on this video release! I happened to pick up some new suspension for my 1996 Corolla today from the UPS warehouse. BC Racing BR series coilovers. The reason I went for coilovers is that my suspension is literally dead, car scrapes speed bumps with only two people in it. Bounces like crazy, depresses really low, and makes a lot of groaning when going over bumps and potholes. OEM 17 year old suspension can do that. Replacing it with KYB gas filled struts, all new coil insulators and strut boots and bump stops and Tein S Tech springs would have cost me $800, plus having the springs installed into the new struts. So I tossed in an extra $195 and got myself completely assembled coilovers with damper adjustment for when I have family in the car. I’ll be installing them this Sunday and the strut design is nearly identical to your Odyssey.
That part with the spring flying out was terrifying though. I refuse to go near cheap spring compressors haha. Thanks a lot for the video!
Absolutely! The longer videos are absolutely fantastic. Of course, I’m sure you will do a mix of both long and the classic shorter videos you do. That’d be best!
Absolutely! The longer videos are absolutely fantastic. Of course, I’m sure you will do a mix of both long and the classic shorter videos you do. That’d be best!
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=65358][quote=”Haloruler64″ post=65168][quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=65061]Eric, I am in complete agreement about finding the known problems, and you did find a vacuum leak indeed.
So did you seal up the leak (what someone was probably trying to do before when they glued it together) and flush, fill and bleed the cooling system?
I don’t know if you noticed but when you shot the video there were definite differences in the readings of the O2 sensors. O2S21 did not look like it was moving in a full range (as compared to O2S11). Now, I know that both upstream will never match but they should be fluctuating between .1 and .9. O2S21 did not appear to go below .295, where O2S11 went to .135. This would cause me to check the O2 sensors. Perhaps a different type (brand) of sensor was being used, or Bank 2 O2 sensor is getting lazy…. I know that not using DENSO O2 sensors on Toyotas can cause issues as well as mixing brands of O2 sensors.
I know I only saw a couple of seconds of the O2S21, so maybe it did move full range… Suppose we could get into the chicken and egg discussion that the O2 is richer because the Bank 2 LTFT was increased! :woohoo:
As always, thanks for all you do.. and disagreement isn’t disrespect!!
Karl![/quote]
O2 sensors don’t operate at full range when idling. To get an O2 sensor to switch properly, you’d need to rev the engine up to 2k RPM. That’s how I tested my O2 sensors. And even with a lazy O2 sensor, that wouldn’t cause start troubles. The O2 sensors don’t come into play until the ECU goes into closed loop, which is when the engine is warm.[/quote]
I am not talking about cold start difficulty… My point is about why one bank LTFT is at +5 and the other is at 0… The possible explanation… The video shows both O2 sensors readings and one is much more dynamic than the other….
🙂
Karl[/quote]
Oh, my apologies. I absolutely see what you mean. Yeah it could definitely be a partial issue with the O2 sensors, but a very minor one. Fuel trim of +5% is very small.
[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=65762][quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=65028]… Besides, the O2 is not active at cold start up anyway… [/quote]
[quote=”Haloruler64″ post=65168]…O2 sensors don’t operate at full range when idling. To get an O2 sensor to switch properly, you’d need to rev the engine up to 2k RPM.[/quote]
You guys are very “old school” with that kind of thinking !
An O2 sensor with a heater giving valid data very quickly (< 1-2 minutes) after startup, even at idle. This is the whole point of having a heater ! Even ScannerDanner commented in on of his videos how quickly this happened. The software will detect if the sensor is not properly responding and try to force it lean and then rich a couple of time before turning on the Check Engine light. If the O2 is not heated (older vehicles), then yes, a minute or so of high idle is required to get it to function. I don't understand the term "full range". EGO (O2) sensors "switches", changes from high to low or low to high voltage, when the exhaust gases pass stoichiometry. Some newer vehicles are now using heated "wide range"/analog/Universal EGO sensors that give a linear response (voltage proportional) over a range of air fuel ratios.[/quote] This is true, many O2 sensors have heaters. However, even heated, they still do not contribute to starting the car. That's the point I was trying to make. A CEL generally comes on when the fuel trim exceeds +/- 25% as far as I remember. Then it becomes a serious issue. My car had one that was +20% constantly, and it ended up being a vacuum leak. My O2 sensor was brand new, of course, so that didn't contribute. But you are very correct in what you're saying And about revving the car, that's not to warm it up. The O2 sensor is more active when the engine is under load. It's easier to see if it's "lazy" when at 2k RPM. This had nothing to do with heat. And about those wide band modern O2 sensors, I'd love one for myself 😀