[Bradley P]

[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=65244]good point but common sense tells you change engine oil but common sense also tells you that coolant tranny fluid PS fluid never needs to be changed[/quote]

I don’t want to be rude, but you sir are stupid for thinking that. Some cars, like my truck, requires the coolant to be change due to rust building up in the engine/water pump. If you do not change it, you will clog up the passage ways, ruin your radiator, and destroy your water pump, and likely destroy the engine if it over heats enough due to that.

Just the other day, there was a loud winning noise comming from my truck, 4days ago, I located it coming from my power steering. My guess is water built up enough to cause this problem. I decided to remove as much as I could, and refill it. After that the winning noise went away! So you telling me that, and me listening to you, could of ended up either blowing my motor, ruining my power steering pump, ruin my radiator, ruin the water pump, and pretty much destory my truck.

Next, about 8months ago, my tranny [5speed] was getting harder to shift normally, thinking that the 190k on my tranny is due to normal wear and tear. However I decided to change the fluid. And guess what? My transmission in my ford ranger, shifts smoother then my problems 2011 Ford Ranger 5speed. If I kept the old tranny fluid, I could of just kept that old ATF fluid, and ended up within a year having a junk tranny that would need replacing.

I’m just going to skip over you stating not to change your brake fluid; because I already have good examples of well over 6thousand dollars of damages I could of done to my truck if I had not listen to you.

You sir have well over 600posts on this forum, which would believe to other members that you know what your talking about, and pretty much members would listen to your advice.

The problem I have here, is that your not stating reasoning behind your facts, but are simply guessing, which is apparently showing me that you have no knowledge of cars;giving the worst advice I’ve ever seen in my life to other people. ADVICE THAT COULD OF COSTED ME WELL OVER 6GRAND IN REPAIRS and I’m just one person who read your post. Do you even understand how much damage you could/will do if people follow your advice? Your just a fucking retard and need to be ban from this website with advice like that, period.

Edit: On part with the tranny and me replacing the ATF fluid in my 5speed: That is the OEM recommended fluid to replace in my 2002 Ford Ranger M50D Madza 5speed Transmission. Users should always report to their own owners manual for what fluid they should use in their own cars; as they will differ.

[Bradley P]

[quote=”LeoTheLion89″ post=65244]good point but common sense tells you change engine oil but common sense also tells you that coolant tranny fluid PS fluid never needs to be changed[/quote]

I don’t want to be rude, but you sir are stupid for thinking that. Some cars, like my truck, requires the coolant to be change due to rust building up in the engine/water pump. If you do not change it, you will clog up the passage ways, ruin your radiator, and destroy your water pump, and likely destroy the engine if it over heats enough due to that.

Just the other day, there was a loud winning noise comming from my truck, 4days ago, I located it coming from my power steering. My guess is water built up enough to cause this problem. I decided to remove as much as I could, and refill it. After that the winning noise went away! So you telling me that, and me listening to you, could of ended up either blowing my motor, ruining my power steering pump, ruin my radiator, ruin the water pump, and pretty much destory my truck.

Next, about 8months ago, my tranny [5speed] was getting harder to shift normally, thinking that the 190k on my tranny is due to normal wear and tear. However I decided to change the fluid. And guess what? My transmission in my ford ranger, shifts smoother then my problems 2011 Ford Ranger 5speed. If I kept the old tranny fluid, I could of just kept that old ATF fluid, and ended up within a year having a junk tranny that would need replacing.

I’m just going to skip over you stating not to change your brake fluid; because I already have good examples of well over 6thousand dollars of damages I could of done to my truck if I had not listen to you.

You sir have well over 600posts on this forum, which would believe to other members that you know what your talking about, and pretty much members would listen to your advice.

The problem I have here, is that your not stating reasoning behind your facts, but are simply guessing, which is apparently showing me that you have no knowledge of cars;giving the worst advice I’ve ever seen in my life to other people. ADVICE THAT COULD OF COSTED ME WELL OVER 6GRAND IN REPAIRS and I’m just one person who read your post. Do you even understand how much damage you could/will do if people follow your advice? Your just a fucking retard and need to be ban from this website with advice like that, period.

Edit: On part with the tranny and me replacing the ATF fluid in my 5speed: That is the OEM recommended fluid to replace in my 2002 Ford Ranger M50D Madza 5speed Transmission. Users should always report to their own owners manual for what fluid they should use in their own cars; as they will differ.

[Bradley P]

It is a very bad idea to use water any where near the engine, and if you sprayed water right at the engine, thats just bad. Eric, to find problems sometimes uses soapy water to check for vac leaks, that just makes me go crazy. Engine bays, should be ‘water’ proof to some degree, and allow to spray water around some parts, but if you ask me, the risk is too great because you can damage parts, and have no idea what you damage. My rule, is to spray nothing [but maybe carb cleaner for vac leaks] no matter what at the engine bay. It would of been best to use a rag with cleaner on rag, to remove dirt & oil.

Advice? Check for stored engine codes in the computer. And take a very look look around all the parts in the engine bay, look for water. And use compressed air to help remove any water, or a rag. Other then that, you can leave your hood open for a day or two to dry out. Just make sure no rain/snow/lawn water/etc can make it into the engine bay while it is drying out.

[Bradley P]

It is a very bad idea to use water any where near the engine, and if you sprayed water right at the engine, thats just bad. Eric, to find problems sometimes uses soapy water to check for vac leaks, that just makes me go crazy. Engine bays, should be ‘water’ proof to some degree, and allow to spray water around some parts, but if you ask me, the risk is too great because you can damage parts, and have no idea what you damage. My rule, is to spray nothing [but maybe carb cleaner for vac leaks] no matter what at the engine bay. It would of been best to use a rag with cleaner on rag, to remove dirt & oil.

Advice? Check for stored engine codes in the computer. And take a very look look around all the parts in the engine bay, look for water. And use compressed air to help remove any water, or a rag. Other then that, you can leave your hood open for a day or two to dry out. Just make sure no rain/snow/lawn water/etc can make it into the engine bay while it is drying out.

[Bradley P]

[quote=”Dest” post=65826]I guess I have a hard time believing that a ford ranger is run hard enough to warrant an oil change every 2k. I don’t even know what you could be doing with it.[/quote]

I tend to drive my Ranger like I drive my bikes, high revs [only when warmed up]. Is 2k oil changes a bit too much? Yes, but it allows me to feel better. Also, if you know anything about Rangers, you know they are not the fastest things in the book, however if you know how to drive it, it can be pretty fast[if you have a 5spd].

Also, 5w-20 is the recommended oil by Ford, and they also recommend Motorcraft 5w-20 Syn Blend according to the owner’s book. I’ve seen that alot of people feel that 5w-20 is pretty thin, however, I’m pretty sure Ford, when they built this engine, they did not choose that rating for no reason with how much $$$ they put into engineering.

—–

However my main question in short is: I’ve been using Castrol GTX “Part Syn”, and decided to switch to the OEM recommended Motorcraft “Syn Blend”. And noticed with the Ford oil it is smoother, less loud, runs betters; why is this? They are both a blend of oil/synthetic oil?

The only ideas I have are (where I need help deciding which is more likely: 85k on engine):
1) Castrol has more Synthetic Oil [and therefore my engine has more wear/slack in engine tolerances]
2) Motorcraft has more Synthetic Oil [and therefore my engine runs better with it]

Detailed Info w/ Correct Product Name/Info:
-Castrol GTX High Mileage Part Synthetic 5w-20
-Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w-20
-2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 v6

Edit: Also, just so it be noted again, I never changed the weight of the oil, only brands, this isn’t a discussion of the weight of the oil, since it is not a variable.

Edit: A little pic of my baby:

[Bradley P]

[quote=”Dest” post=65826]I guess I have a hard time believing that a ford ranger is run hard enough to warrant an oil change every 2k. I don’t even know what you could be doing with it.[/quote]

I tend to drive my Ranger like I drive my bikes, high revs [only when warmed up]. Is 2k oil changes a bit too much? Yes, but it allows me to feel better. Also, if you know anything about Rangers, you know they are not the fastest things in the book, however if you know how to drive it, it can be pretty fast[if you have a 5spd].

Also, 5w-20 is the recommended oil by Ford, and they also recommend Motorcraft 5w-20 Syn Blend according to the owner’s book. I’ve seen that alot of people feel that 5w-20 is pretty thin, however, I’m pretty sure Ford, when they built this engine, they did not choose that rating for no reason with how much $$$ they put into engineering.

—–

However my main question in short is: I’ve been using Castrol GTX “Part Syn”, and decided to switch to the OEM recommended Motorcraft “Syn Blend”. And noticed with the Ford oil it is smoother, less loud, runs betters; why is this? They are both a blend of oil/synthetic oil?

The only ideas I have are (where I need help deciding which is more likely: 85k on engine):
1) Castrol has more Synthetic Oil [and therefore my engine has more wear/slack in engine tolerances]
2) Motorcraft has more Synthetic Oil [and therefore my engine runs better with it]

Detailed Info w/ Correct Product Name/Info:
-Castrol GTX High Mileage Part Synthetic 5w-20
-Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 5w-20
-2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 v6

Edit: Also, just so it be noted again, I never changed the weight of the oil, only brands, this isn’t a discussion of the weight of the oil, since it is not a variable.

Edit: A little pic of my baby:

[Bradley P]

[quote=”wokko7″ post=65738]That is a very thin oil 5w 20.
Maybe your motor just likes thin oil.[/quote]

Always used 5w-20, however my results are from changing from Castrol GTX part Syn, to Motorcraft Syn Blend. Also according to Ford, that is the correct oil to put into it.

[quote=”Dest” post=65747]Why are you changing every 2k miles?[/quote]

Already answered this in my first post, I run my engine pretty hard, which is why I change it every 2k. [With motorcraft filters as well each time]

[Bradley P]

[quote=”wokko7″ post=65738]That is a very thin oil 5w 20.
Maybe your motor just likes thin oil.[/quote]

Always used 5w-20, however my results are from changing from Castrol GTX part Syn, to Motorcraft Syn Blend. Also according to Ford, that is the correct oil to put into it.

[quote=”Dest” post=65747]Why are you changing every 2k miles?[/quote]

Already answered this in my first post, I run my engine pretty hard, which is why I change it every 2k. [With motorcraft filters as well each time]

[Bradley P]

I will explain how to park the correct way, either for a manual transmission or auto.

Auto:
1) Hold Brake Pedal: Don’t Release Until Told To
2) Turn Car off in Drive [saves from an extra shift into Park with power still going thru the tranny]
3) Apply parking/e-brake fully.
4) Once the weight of the car if resting by the e-brake/park brake then release the Brake Pedal
5) Now hold the brake Pedal (to allow you to shift from Drive to Park Gear)
6) Now release the brake pedal again
7) Done

Manual
1) Hold Brake Pedal: Don’t Release Until Told To
2) Turn Car off in Neutral (Keep holding the Brake Pedal)
3) Apply e-brake/park break fully
4) Wait UNTIL the weight of the car is loaded onto the park/e-brake
5) Once the weight of the car if resting by the e-brake/park brake then release the Brake Pedal
6) Now place the car into gear of your choice (1st or 2nd gear)

Reasoning: You want the feel weight of the car to be resting on the e-brake/park brake before placing it into Park/Gear. You will been to place the parking brake fully, then release the brake pedal to allow the car to move & allow the park/e-brake to catch the weight of the car. Once thats done you can now put it into gear. Now if your in an auto, you will have to hold the brake pedal to allow it to shift from Drive into Park, thats okay.

Other Words: You should be able to put the park brake/e-brake on FIRST, ALLOW it to catch the weight of the car, THEN shift into Park/Gear.

What this does is off-load all the weight off the transmission park gear [or 1st/2nd in a 5spd] and onto the parking/e-brake. Therefore no weight is on your parking gear.
—
This is even MORE important if you park on a hill/steep drive way, if you don’t follow these steps and park it by not following this, you will have your tranny making HARD shifts in & out of park.

Do you want the whole weight of your car on a thin piece of metal(autos) that will chip away and cause damage? It will also hurt manual transmission cars as well.

If for what reason your park/e-brake fails while parked on a hill, then your transmission gear will catch next.

Edit: I just noticed the guy who posted before me, he pretty much mention the same thing I did, however I just gave the steps.

[Bradley P]

I will explain how to park the correct way, either for a manual transmission or auto.

Auto:
1) Hold Brake Pedal: Don’t Release Until Told To
2) Turn Car off in Drive [saves from an extra shift into Park with power still going thru the tranny]
3) Apply parking/e-brake fully.
4) Once the weight of the car if resting by the e-brake/park brake then release the Brake Pedal
5) Now hold the brake Pedal (to allow you to shift from Drive to Park Gear)
6) Now release the brake pedal again
7) Done

Manual
1) Hold Brake Pedal: Don’t Release Until Told To
2) Turn Car off in Neutral (Keep holding the Brake Pedal)
3) Apply e-brake/park break fully
4) Wait UNTIL the weight of the car is loaded onto the park/e-brake
5) Once the weight of the car if resting by the e-brake/park brake then release the Brake Pedal
6) Now place the car into gear of your choice (1st or 2nd gear)

Reasoning: You want the feel weight of the car to be resting on the e-brake/park brake before placing it into Park/Gear. You will been to place the parking brake fully, then release the brake pedal to allow the car to move & allow the park/e-brake to catch the weight of the car. Once thats done you can now put it into gear. Now if your in an auto, you will have to hold the brake pedal to allow it to shift from Drive into Park, thats okay.

Other Words: You should be able to put the park brake/e-brake on FIRST, ALLOW it to catch the weight of the car, THEN shift into Park/Gear.

What this does is off-load all the weight off the transmission park gear [or 1st/2nd in a 5spd] and onto the parking/e-brake. Therefore no weight is on your parking gear.
—
This is even MORE important if you park on a hill/steep drive way, if you don’t follow these steps and park it by not following this, you will have your tranny making HARD shifts in & out of park.

Do you want the whole weight of your car on a thin piece of metal(autos) that will chip away and cause damage? It will also hurt manual transmission cars as well.

If for what reason your park/e-brake fails while parked on a hill, then your transmission gear will catch next.

Edit: I just noticed the guy who posted before me, he pretty much mention the same thing I did, however I just gave the steps.

[Author]

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