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Gary Wolff

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  • in reply to: Timing marks question #492061
    Gary WolffGary Wolff
    Participant

      I would say that you need to line the crank marks up with the block and the cams gears with their respective marks, but I would also refer to a service manual. After installing the belt, you have to set the tensioner without letting the belt even slip one tooth—all it takes is a tooth for the timing to be off and cause the misfires. Go back and retrace your steps.

      in reply to: Timing marks question #493243
      Gary WolffGary Wolff
      Participant

        I would say that you need to line the crank marks up with the block and the cams gears with their respective marks, but I would also refer to a service manual. After installing the belt, you have to set the tensioner without letting the belt even slip one tooth—all it takes is a tooth for the timing to be off and cause the misfires. Go back and retrace your steps.

        in reply to: Timing marks question #491118
        Gary WolffGary Wolff
        Participant

          STOP—-get the service manual for your vehicle and see what it is suppose to be like. Do not risk closing it up and thinking it is fine—you could cause serious engine damage if valves meet pistons. Each engine has a routine for lining up timing marks during a belt change. Some engines require two revolutions of the crank in order to line up the cam marks—refer to the Service Manual for that specific model & engine.

          in reply to: Timing marks question #492239
          Gary WolffGary Wolff
          Participant

            STOP—-get the service manual for your vehicle and see what it is suppose to be like. Do not risk closing it up and thinking it is fine—you could cause serious engine damage if valves meet pistons. Each engine has a routine for lining up timing marks during a belt change. Some engines require two revolutions of the crank in order to line up the cam marks—refer to the Service Manual for that specific model & engine.

            in reply to: 1987 Chevy Camaro z28 No start #487990
            Gary WolffGary Wolff
            Participant

              Sometimes it’s easier to go back to basics….you have fuel, do you have spark and air? What do the plugs look like?

              in reply to: 1987 Chevy Camaro z28 No start #489139
              Gary WolffGary Wolff
              Participant

                Sometimes it’s easier to go back to basics….you have fuel, do you have spark and air? What do the plugs look like?

                in reply to: Cooling System Flush #487948
                Gary WolffGary Wolff
                Participant

                  I had a 94 Z-28 and this system on the LT-1 engine uses a reverse flow water pump—essentially backwards from all past Chevy small blocks. This system is notorious for trapping air when you do a flush and re-fill. Chevy was smart (for a change!) and installed a bleed screw right around the thermostat housing. Make sure you have a new thermostat installed—DO NOT run without one since this motor runs based on temperature and it is critical to maintain the correct temp. With the car running, loosen the locknut and slowly back out the bleed screw until you hear air hissing. Close the screw when you get coolant trickling out. Do this a couple of times after it is warmed up to operating temp. Add coolant as necessary through the coolant reservoir mounted on the fender—it will draw it into the system as needed.

                  in reply to: Cooling System Flush #489094
                  Gary WolffGary Wolff
                  Participant

                    I had a 94 Z-28 and this system on the LT-1 engine uses a reverse flow water pump—essentially backwards from all past Chevy small blocks. This system is notorious for trapping air when you do a flush and re-fill. Chevy was smart (for a change!) and installed a bleed screw right around the thermostat housing. Make sure you have a new thermostat installed—DO NOT run without one since this motor runs based on temperature and it is critical to maintain the correct temp. With the car running, loosen the locknut and slowly back out the bleed screw until you hear air hissing. Close the screw when you get coolant trickling out. Do this a couple of times after it is warmed up to operating temp. Add coolant as necessary through the coolant reservoir mounted on the fender—it will draw it into the system as needed.

                    in reply to: Broken Bolt – best way to deal with it #487938
                    Gary WolffGary Wolff
                    Participant

                      You could also drill straight down through the center and try using an EZ-Out bit to remove. Be CAREFUL not to break the EZ-out or you will have even more problems. I have drilled bolts and used a progessively larger bit until I could collapse the bolt or get it to loosen. Worse case scenario if you mees up the threads you can install a helicoil. Plenty of anti-seize on the new bolt!

                      in reply to: Broken Bolt – best way to deal with it #489084
                      Gary WolffGary Wolff
                      Participant

                        You could also drill straight down through the center and try using an EZ-Out bit to remove. Be CAREFUL not to break the EZ-out or you will have even more problems. I have drilled bolts and used a progessively larger bit until I could collapse the bolt or get it to loosen. Worse case scenario if you mees up the threads you can install a helicoil. Plenty of anti-seize on the new bolt!

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