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UPDATE:
I took my car to a local shop that had a bi-directional scan tool and within 10 mins FIXED. I brought along paperwork from forums regarding the throttle position calibration, he read it and went out to the car, hooked up the OBD and bamm, DONE. Now I idle at 700 RPMs and everything is the way it used to be. He didn’t even charge me…..
[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=137688]What scanner did you use? I have the same car as you and would like to have that scanner in case I need in the future.
Thanks.[/quote]
I used a simple Actron scanner to pull the P0507 code. But I think I might have to go to Honda to re calibrate the throttle plate position sensor
I think this guy hit the nail on the head. I’m going to bring by a local shop to see if they can calibrate Throttle Plate:
ok so to everyone who has this problem i want to stop the insanity of hearing people replacing good throttle bodies and some saying the dealer has to reflash your pcm.. in some cases if you man handle your throttle body you could damage it but jeez im sure you guys are being careful RIGHT? So that being said im a tech and have been in the automotive trade over 25 years doing electrical diagnosis and tune up so when i cleaned my throttle body and my car started acting this way i naturally needed to find out why… first thing i did was a idle relean which did nothing n i did it 4 times..so i hooked up the scanner and looked at all my pid’s n low and behold the tp sensors were not agreeing so i went into special functions on the scanner and did a tps calibration..fired it up and idle went down to 750 perrrrrrrffffffect…the rev hang was gone or back to normal cause as all of us know these 8th gens do that on factory tune.. unfortunately this action has to be done by the use of a scanner and no it doesn’t have to be a hds from honda it could be any good scanner with bi directional controls a $100 scanner from the parts store wont work…so if you clean your throttle and notice your idle stays at 900 rpm and when you come to a rolling stop in neutral your rpms shoot up to 2500 rpm till you come to a complete stop or you use your front window defrost and throw a p0507 “idle higher than expected” all these problems are caused by the same problem “TPS CALIBRATION” to all of you that went to honda and they couldn’t address this problem its a shame cause they should know this..Now i know people are saying the car fixed itself after driving it a couple months or whatever but really can you drive you car with it bucking along while trying to find a parking spot or going to a drive through and you guys that have this know what i mean..it will fix itself after a while but it will take a long time for the pcm to learn all the values needed..hope this sheds some light guys…peace.
UPDATE!!!
I got the bolts off, butttt I had to cut them off with a angle grinder and saw-zall. I tried an impact gun first and no luck.
Then I banged the shit out of the bolt and eye of shock, no luck.
Then I heated it up with a torch, and the only thing I did was burn the rubber bushing inside the eye on the bottom of the shock. The bolt was turning but it wasn’t going to come out unless I bent the frame cuz the bolt was threaded into the frame.
So finally I just took an angle grinder and saw-zall and cut the bolt on both sides of the shock. Went to the Honda dealer and bought two new bolts. Put a shitload of Anti-Seize paste on them and reinstalled new shocks….
5 hours later…..ALL DONE!!
UPDATE!!!
I got the bolts off, butttt I had to cut them off with a angle grinder and saw-zall. I tried an impact gun first and no luck.
Then I banged the shit out of the bolt and eye of shock, no luck.
Then I heated it up with a torch, and the only thing I did was burn the rubber bushing inside the eye on the bottom of the shock. The bolt was turning but it wasn’t going to come out unless I bent the frame cuz the bolt was threaded into the frame.
So finally I just took an angle grinder and saw-zall and cut the bolt on both sides of the shock. Went to the Honda dealer and bought two new bolts. Put a shitload of Anti-Seize paste on them and reinstalled new shocks….
5 hours later…..ALL DONE!!
I’ll be tackling it this week again with PB Blaster, banging the heck out of it, and heating up the area around the bolt. And it is a 2008 Civic LX 4 door
I’ll be tackling it this week again with PB Blaster, banging the heck out of it, and heating up the area around the bolt. And it is a 2008 Civic LX 4 door
LOL, may dad asked me the same question… And yes I am turning it right. Righty-Tighty Lefty-Loosely.
It’s a Honda Civic with 150k miles on it. This is the first time I’m replacing the rear shock absorbers. THey are NOT springs or struts.
