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Everyone thanks a billion again some things I’m learning as I go and rear wheel bearings and seals I can say I’ve done successfully and I also understand the concept and design of the differential. Thanks everyone.
I’ll replace the seal and I have Another question to go with this, what do u look for as signs of the bearings in the differential being bad. I’m just wondering if these are good or not.
Well thanks everyone I am gaining precious knowledge with everyones knowledge. Good news problem solved the new radiator seemed to take care of the issue. There is a separate sensor I did mess with it so maybe it helped as well. Thanks all my friends without you none of this would be possible 🙂
Am I right when I say that the oil seal is bad since there is oil all over the brakes and is it hard to put in a new seal without any special tools.
My bad I forgot to mention that I replaced the water pump as well it sprung a leak so I did replace it. I bled the system and same problem so now onto the radiator. I have to say I am starting to feel stupid and I am wondering if my customers think I am because I have moments of not diagnosing right the first time.
I checked the oil and It’s a nice caramel color still (did oil change about 50 miles ago). I’m gonna try the air in the system and then I will post my results
Good news everyone I figured out my 4 wheel drive issue. I got frustrated so I decided to run up to the big junk yard about 30 minutes from me and look at another blazer as a blue print and I found the reason the 4 wheel drive didn’t work was the electric break control front drive axle vacuum switch wasn’t hooked up to the little vacuum tank under the little tray that holds the battery. I also used my multimeter to test the tps and it was shot so I put a new one on and between the vacuum hose getting hooked up and the tps the 4 wheel works and the idle dropped to normal from 2200 rpm. So now I feel like I’m on a roll now on fixing cars and getting some happy customers along the way. Thanks everyone for everything.
hair is an update on my problem. I think I have it more isolated now and hopefully this will help others help me. the other day the idle was about 3000 rpm and at that time I couldn’t get the idle to go down to normal but with the idle t hat high every time I would put the gear in neutral and click on 4 hi it would engage I risked and did burn rubb er putting it into drive but the 4 wheel drive did work and I also did this with the 4 lo with the same results. but now I have the idle at normal and when you try to push on the buttons to engage the 4 wheel drive and it will do the same thing as I described earlier. so what I decided to do was put the car in n eutral and bring the car to idle at about 2200 rpm and sure enough the 4 wheel drive would engage at high rpm. does anyone know what would cause of this to happen? also there is a piece on the car that’s called an electric brake control front drive axle vacuum switch what puzzles me is there are 2 vacuum lines that go into a T connector and that vacuum switch I just mentioned connects into a 3/8″ hose coming out of that T connector and there is also a 3/8″ hose that goes out of that switch and is connected to nothing just hang in there but it sure looks to me that it should go on to something. please help
Eureka everyone I have finished the job. I traced the problem to a very small crack in one of the inlet where the brake line goes into the master cylinder. I replaced that master and the brakes are fabulous and my customer is extremely happy. Oh ya as for the brake (splash) shield was beyond repair and he wanted a new one and I tried napa, rock auto, advance auto, auto zone, checker auto and the only place I could get the darn thing was the dealer at the dealer price of $29.85 now onto my next 2 jobs replacing the water pump and heater core on a 91 geo metro and figure out a sputtering 96 firebird. Again I thank you and salute you all, you guys are my life line
Eureka everyone I have finished the job. I traced the problem to a very small crack in one of the inlet where the brake line goes into the master cylinder. I replaced that master and the brakes are fabulous and my customer is extremely happy. Oh ya as for the brake (splash) shield was beyond repair and he wanted a new one and I tried napa, rock auto, advance auto, auto zone, checker auto and the only place I could get the darn thing was the dealer at the dealer price of $29.85 now onto my next 2 jobs replacing the water pump and heater core on a 91 geo metro and figure out a sputtering 96 firebird. Again I thank you and salute you all, you guys are my life line
I know i should know this but how do you adjust the rear brakes (drum brakes). Where would the shims be because I didn’t see any. Thanks everyone
Thank you so much bigC I now got the drum brakes adjusted I have one more brake to bleed the front drivers side but the brakes where making a massive scrapping sound so I looked into it and come to find out the rotor shiel(dust shield) was so bent that the rotor was scrapping against it. I can’t find a new one around here and I don’t feel like going to a bone yard and having to pull another hub so tomorrow I’m gonna pull it off and straightening it myself and then bleed it and hope and pray It’s fixed because they need their jeep. Oh I failed to mention that I replaced the master cylinder. I did this because there was a little crack by one of the ports where the brake line went in. I plugged that port where the line went in and a little brake fluid would drip out so I replaced it and bench bled the new master cylinder and plugged both ports and no leaks so I’m hoping the problems solved. I will post results tomorrow and I know I thanked bigC but I really want to thank everyone