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the truck has LED trailer lights on the back.
the trailer lights are good cuz they work on 2 other trucks. im wondering if im having a grounding issue on the truck. i checked it already but its just very weird.
everything works, except the driver side brake/ tail.
even without the trailer plugged in, if i put the test light on the yellow pin i knocks out the light on the truck. and i get nothing on the wire. as soon as i take the light off i get the truck light coming back on.
i will try a compression test on all cylinders, it did have a misfire code on cylinder 3. also i dont think it was run low on oil. what is the differences on the older model engines? those 2.4s are completely different then the newer 06+ ones?
if this car has an automatic belt tensioner the spring might be getting weak and not putting enough tension on the belt.
this video may help
check front cv’s over well. truck is in 2wd when noise happens? do a fluid change on the t case and see if there are any significant metal shavings. possibly 4wd actuator on front diff acting up. video of noise might be a benefit.
if you feel vibs in the steering wheel its almost definitely warped fronts. usually i notice when the slides are frozen that the brakes just suck. (no pulsation) i would recommend to just buy new rotors because resurfacing makes them thinner and easier to warp the next time.
im not really worried about resale value. this is an ex police car we are talking about.. there are already a bunch of wires that have been cut out and switches and stuff from the police equipment. the wire pin 5 (brown and white) goes from the fuse box B+ all the time to that plug. im going from the fuse box B+ all the time. with an inline fuse to the back of the plug… what is the difference? its not wrapped in a pretty wire loom? lol.
yes i ran jumper wire from battery to back probe on motor plug. i tried to find the wire by splitting the loom near the box and could not find it. after about an hour i gave up and just ran a new wire from the B+ aux spot on the fuse box, with an inline fuse. to the back of the motor connector. all is well and working. hopefully it stays that way 😀
pin 5 (voltage at all times) had 10v to connector, loses voltage once plugged in, jumpered from battery hot and motor kicks over and all selections seem to work fine.. I see this wire goes from the junction box right to the motor? Im not good at reading wiring diagrams lol. what is the best way to repair this? replace it all the way from the box to the motor and splice in right at the back of the connector? (waterproof butt connector?)
worked on a lot of junk before and never had to run a wire like this.
i actually did not install the motor, i just unplugged the original, and plugged new in and let it sit on top of the engine. then tried it. much better then taking the whole cowl apart and installing a new one to find out it dont work.
[quote=”burninrubber214″ post=158684]Come on man you have all ready throw parts trying to fix this highly likely going to be that black wire pin 5 open/high resistance judging by wipers and swirts inop. At this point I would check the washer pump circuit aswell contstant ground and 12+ volts when applied just to be safe. I would also do a resistance check on both power wire and grounds before and after the connectors…. you missed something[/quote]
to be honest it was faster and cheaper to just buy the switch and replace it while i go in there to test the harness. i am almost positive the motor is bad. so the little bit it cost isnt a big deal to me. i already tested pin 5 along with all the other wires. nothing alarming from what i can tell. i will have time tomorrow evening to after work to mess with it some more and report back. thanks again
i will try jumpering the grounds and see where that gets me, but all of them have low resistance to ground so im just “assuming” they are fine. as far as voltage drop… how am i suppose to test on the motor side of the connector? lol.
i would flush with water, plenty plenty of times.a flush additive will help alot.
my biggest concern is stick with dexcool. youll never get it all out and you dont want to mix it with green.
ive just recently flushed my 2000 silverado which i know hadnt been done in atleast 5 years.. (how long ive had it) but i know the coolant was in there much longer then that. dexcool has been nothing but good to me.