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ive only ran it for about an hour and around the shop, enough to bleed the cooling system. the water pump on these is not driven off the timing belt but is partially behind it. so needed to be loosened to change it. water pump was bad on this car and figured id do TB at same time, so the TB is only on the crank, tensioner, and 2 cams.. i will drive it home tonight and see. if noise doesnt get better i guess i know what needs to be done :/
Took serpentine belt off and it’s not that. No codes. Car runs fine. Noise is accurately displayed in the video but it’s not super loud. With the hood closed you probably wouldn’t hear it if I didn’t mention it. Only does it when it’s warm aswell. No noise when cold.
i guess it makes sense, im glad its just the seal and not the pinion bearings i guess..
i found the owners manual buried under the seat and it says 1/4 – 9/16th down from the fill hole.
Well pulled the pan off today, looks like i dont need to go any further!
looking at getting a reman or maybe one from a junkyard.
no wonder your diagram is so different then mine! its the 4r70w not the 4r100.
im checking power at connector c1274, i have power on pin 1 (red wire) at key on, so i know everything before that and fuse is good.
looks like i will be pulling the pan soon, hopefully tomorrow, do i really need a scan tool that i can activate the solenoid? do i need to activate the solenoid and check the line pressure?
im betting there is going to be a decent amount of metal in the pan and i wont have to go that far. lol
thank you for the diagram, i was looking at alldata and i checked the resistance on the TCC solenoid and it measured 18 ohms initially then 16 ohms, Alldata is saying 10-16. i checked every fuse in both boxes, but i will double check fuse 24 when i get back to it. would the easiest way to be check the power on the trans connector i was probing for the solenoid?
what does a “splice” mean? is that another connector? or actually part of the harness?
Sorry I forgot to include that but the trans fluid is clean. No burnt at all I will check it again.
The noise is there in low (if you drop it all the way to 1) that’s it. Only first gear. Noise is gone in the other gears. But would the torque converter solineoid cause a noise in only one gear?
I’m just thinking that because I don’t wanna spend time chasing this solenoid if the trans has mechanical issues.
I had my coworker ride in it with me and the trans started acting up worse. When trying to start from a stop it was in a higher gear and would stall. He was saying the converter was staying locked?
no codes have came back so he does not know. he just texted me and said he thinks he found a crack in the intake manifold. I will see what happens on monday.
another week and car is still no better.
he actually had an ex ford tech come out and look at the car. he said he has the ford software and he said that everything looked ok, he said the fuel trims were ok. he thought it was the computer. he got a junkyard computer and reprogrammed it and it didnt change a thing. then they started throwing parts at it, another new coil, new maf, checked EGR, nothing. compression shows 130 ish on all cyl.
car will run and scream at higher rpms no problem, anything under 2k is like running on 2 cyls. its terrible.
now he doesnt even know what to do. he wont go to the dealer because hes too cheap. and cheap shops dont wanna touch it.
[quote=”relative4″ post=184625]Check air filter, check spark plugs, verify spark with inline tester. No P030x codes?[/quote]
he just did the plugs and said they looked terrible. we cleared the codes and he drove it and came back with the same codes and also
P0302 and P0300, cyl 2 mis, and random misfire. he was pulling plug wires while it was running and seems like they are all hitting.
since that threw more misfire codes Duh we cleared it again but we cannot get the light to come back on or codes to come back. just says “drive cycle not complete”
apparently he did do the coil and wires at the same time, but never did plugs so thats why he did them now.
nothing he has done has helped the car or changed the way it runs at all. he said he also tried cleaning the throttle body, maf, and stuff.
what else can we look at? we have a scan tool with live data but thats about it.
maybe mechanical? should i check compression?
Just an update for anyone that stumbles on this thread.
either the spark magically returned, or maybe i didnt have a good ground or something when i was checking it (most likely)
i checked for power at the pump and i had power, so i basically knew the pump was bad. cut a nice access hole in the floor (lol) changed out the pump and she fired right up!
my brother totaled his car at around the same time, and he has been commuting 2+ hours for the past 2 months with it!
The battery is not dying. I’m having a crank no, start. I was hoping someone with,knowledge of ford stuff would know what can cut fuel and spark at the same time that would be my issue. I’ve also checked fuel inertia,switch.
I did remove an aftermarket alarm system from this because you would honk the horn and it would lock the doors. That was the only thing I know of that interfered with the factory harness. Everything else that was removed had its own wires to the battery. As far as the aftermarket alarm the only,wire that was cut was the ignition start position. Every other wire was just tapped into and soldered. So I removed all that and re connected the one cut wire. There is nothing aftermarket on this,van now. But that still did not affect the crank NO start.
I have no fuel pressure and No spark. What else controls both of these besides the ecu that could be my issue?
I’m unsure if this van has a,factory alarm or security system. The theft light IS NOT blinking when I crank. The key is not chipped.