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The issue is most likely trapped air. Try to lift the edge of the boot enough to allow the air to escape. Eric mentiond this in one of his videos. That is also probably what made the pin difficult to insert with the new, freshly lubed bushing.
What did you use to lube the pin? Some lubricants, excluding silicone paste, can cause rubber to swell.
[quote=”dtidman” post=170039]This is the part of technology that is really difficult to figure out. How do you assess blame when technology fails? What is the reasonable liability for everyone involved?
[/quote]It is hard to say how this will play out in a world where people expect perfection from everyone but themselves. In the end, the decision will be probably be made by our legislators on the Supreme Court.
I am not in the tire business so I was not familiar with T.I.A. until I looked it up as a result of it being mentioned here.
So, if someone replaces only two tires, does that remove tire rotation from the picture until a full set is installed or can the tires be rotated from side to side on the same axle?
I was recently told that the new/best tires should go on the rear. The logic is that, in a slide, you have a better chance of correcting the path of the front end wih steering so you want good tread on the rear to minimize traction loss right from the start.
That is in direct conflict with what I have always been told so I am still trying to process this new information and come to my own conclusion.
I feel that the testing done by Eric in the video was not conclusive due to the rapidly changing conditions and lack of space. This is just an observation and not a criticism. Nice try Eric! 🙂
I’m sure that experienced techs can get by without using torque wrenchs for many things but Eric’s videos are widely relied on by folks that might be attempting their first repair. Even if he doesn’t use a torque wrench, it might increase the instructional value if he suggested the importance of proper torque on parts where a novice might tend to guess incorrectly and cause problems.
The full capacity is not drained on a drain and fill so the additional fluid was lost to whatever caused the low reading.
If you are comfortable with brake fluid being in your vehicle for 2 years, then that should be your guide on opened containers. The fluid in the opened container should deteriorate at about the same rate as that in the vehicles, if not slower.
“Any chemical that has been opened, including brake fluid, power steering fluid, etc., has a recommended shelf life of no longer than two to three years, depending on storage.”
How often do you replace your brake fluid? I would let that be your guide. Brake fluid goes bad by absorbing moisture (hygroscopic) and it does that in the bottle as well as the brake system.
Whether the vehicle is driven or sitting, the brake fluid still draws moisture. So, for me, the indicator is the calendar. I change mine every 2 years. It is cheap peace of mind.
I have seen weak or failing batteries cause the dashboard lights to go nuts on some vehicles. I would start there and then widen your search if that isn’t the issue.