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I’m going to chime in here with some electronic theory. In a speaker system, you have many frequencies traveling through the cables, thus I’m applying a frequency analysis for audio systems of 10Hz to 30kHz. This theory does not apply to sensors or things with DC voltage.
We all know that copper wires have a resistance. This is more formally known as DC steady state resistance. If we apply an AC frequency, you’ll notice that the observed impedance (a more complex form of measuring resistance) that the impedance changes due to the skin effect (a physics phenomena where current does not like to travel down the center of a wire, but only its skin.)
. The crux of the argument is that your high end 20kHz frequencies will be dampened/reduced, up to about 34%. For higher frequencies the loss is even more dramatic, but for audio frequencies its not much. In the end, your connections account for very little length of the total run of the wire, so I don’t expect less than 3% difference.
In the end, for audio frequencies a solder is a better connection than a crimp, but not by much. But be careful about bad solder connections which look good on the outside but fail to get sucked into the copper.
The logic is sound for minimizing fluid consumption/draining. But doesn’t this almost guarantee that you will have lots of air in the system when you pull the brake back up? I could see using this if one has a vacuum pump.
The logic is sound for minimizing fluid consumption/draining. But doesn’t this almost guarantee that you will have lots of air in the system when you pull the brake back up? I could see using this if one has a vacuum pump.
Not an expert here, but I have some advice to start with.
1) Don’t park it in grass. Grass evaporates, and leads to underbody corrosion.
2) Don’t park it next to trees (without some cover). The pollen and sap get to it.
3) Don’t park it next to an ant-hill, or a wood pile.
4) Get a rain cover.My rotors rusted to the brakes. My brake caliper hydraulics seized. I left my car in thunderstorm/sunny weather for 2 months. Other people are going to talk about how your automatic transmission fluid likes to eat water, and since you engine isn’t getting hot you will probably need to change this more frequent (or else rust on the insides of transmission). In fact, since you aren’t driving your automotive (frequency), you’ll be needing to change all fluids more often. Perhaps you should minimally take it for a daily commute once a month. Cause the waist in gas is probably less than the cost of fluids. Vehicles use fluids to protect them-self. Heat prevents water buildup.
When water gets into fluids, the fluids turn more acidic. Acidic fluids eat away at metal and rubber.
I don’t think around the block is enough. You need to get the engine as well as other components to full temp.
Not an expert here, but I have some advice to start with.
1) Don’t park it in grass. Grass evaporates, and leads to underbody corrosion.
2) Don’t park it next to trees (without some cover). The pollen and sap get to it.
3) Don’t park it next to an ant-hill, or a wood pile.
4) Get a rain cover.My rotors rusted to the brakes. My brake caliper hydraulics seized. I left my car in thunderstorm/sunny weather for 2 months. Other people are going to talk about how your automatic transmission fluid likes to eat water, and since you engine isn’t getting hot you will probably need to change this more frequent (or else rust on the insides of transmission). In fact, since you aren’t driving your automotive (frequency), you’ll be needing to change all fluids more often. Perhaps you should minimally take it for a daily commute once a month. Cause the waist in gas is probably less than the cost of fluids. Vehicles use fluids to protect them-self. Heat prevents water buildup.
When water gets into fluids, the fluids turn more acidic. Acidic fluids eat away at metal and rubber.
I don’t think around the block is enough. You need to get the engine as well as other components to full temp.
I did this because I had no idea what torque to apply to them. At least this gives me a value not to exceed. I believe I torqued them back at “About here” which was 25 ft*lbs. I know that corrosion and lock-tight will cause these values to be high, so in my head I just took %75 of the value it took to loosen them.
PS. I put 30 miles of stop and go driving. and this clutch has never acted this fine. (I bought it with 210k miles on it).
I did this because I had no idea what torque to apply to them. At least this gives me a value not to exceed. I believe I torqued them back at “About here” which was 25 ft*lbs. I know that corrosion and lock-tight will cause these values to be high, so in my head I just took %75 of the value it took to loosen them.
PS. I put 30 miles of stop and go driving. and this clutch has never acted this fine. (I bought it with 210k miles on it).