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I just did the Seafoam treament on my Subaru Legacy 2000, a recent purchass last fall. It has quite the history of sitting in the swamp, and once had a replaced warped head gasket (a common failture on this engine’s year).
A bottle of SeaForm is 1Pt, (16 Fl Oz), and the subaru takes 4 quarts of oil. so half bottle is just a little over recomended. I drove about 10 miles looking for a car wash on saturday night. Then changed the oil the next morning. The oil did come out quite black, but no foam or sludge, a little more dirty than I expected for such low miles. Perhaps the blackness is the carbon, after the treatment of SeaFoam. Again, I have no idea of the history on this car, so bi-annual oil changes don’t sound like a bad idea. I’ll just keep buying Mobile 5w-30 from wallmart and change it often along with new FRAM-TG3593A oil filters.
The antifreeze looks glows fine, and maintined its level. So I’m thinking the blackness of the oil is a buildup of bad oil collected from years of sitting, finally getting disolved in the SeaForm treatment.
The car does throw an error code, something about the evaporative emmisions. It goes on, stays on, but sometimes turns off on long rides. When i remove the gas cap, I don’t get the puff of vapor like normal. Could this be a rusted out gas tank? I cleaned the rim of the cap, and it doesn’t build up pressure. Shall I get a new gas cap? It could of course be the wiring, cause I see some splices. I ran my own splice parallel to the onces added. Its hard to test these circuits, I’m not sure when they activate. I started lookin into this because of the code, and my idle sometimes drops low (like 200 rpm) then quickly returns to its sweet spot at around 600rpm.
I just did the Seafoam treament on my Subaru Legacy 2000, a recent purchass last fall. It has quite the history of sitting in the swamp, and once had a replaced warped head gasket (a common failture on this engine’s year).
A bottle of SeaForm is 1Pt, (16 Fl Oz), and the subaru takes 4 quarts of oil. so half bottle is just a little over recomended. I drove about 10 miles looking for a car wash on saturday night. Then changed the oil the next morning. The oil did come out quite black, but no foam or sludge, a little more dirty than I expected for such low miles. Perhaps the blackness is the carbon, after the treatment of SeaFoam. Again, I have no idea of the history on this car, so bi-annual oil changes don’t sound like a bad idea. I’ll just keep buying Mobile 5w-30 from wallmart and change it often along with new FRAM-TG3593A oil filters.
The antifreeze looks glows fine, and maintined its level. So I’m thinking the blackness of the oil is a buildup of bad oil collected from years of sitting, finally getting disolved in the SeaForm treatment.
The car does throw an error code, something about the evaporative emmisions. It goes on, stays on, but sometimes turns off on long rides. When i remove the gas cap, I don’t get the puff of vapor like normal. Could this be a rusted out gas tank? I cleaned the rim of the cap, and it doesn’t build up pressure. Shall I get a new gas cap? It could of course be the wiring, cause I see some splices. I ran my own splice parallel to the onces added. Its hard to test these circuits, I’m not sure when they activate. I started lookin into this because of the code, and my idle sometimes drops low (like 200 rpm) then quickly returns to its sweet spot at around 600rpm.
That point is valid and needs repeating. If you want high end audio, perhaps your going to need to run some new wires through your door hinge, cause somewhere under the dash is going through a connector. In fact, one should run speaker wire specifically, cause it has capacitance / inductance values that are tuned to its per meter resistance so that frequencies of 10Hz to 20kHz are transmitted optimally flat (frequency response). Since the wires aren’t paired together in the wiring harness, extra effort to make a soldered connection is likely fruitless in terms of maintaining frequency response.
That point is valid and needs repeating. If you want high end audio, perhaps your going to need to run some new wires through your door hinge, cause somewhere under the dash is going through a connector. In fact, one should run speaker wire specifically, cause it has capacitance / inductance values that are tuned to its per meter resistance so that frequencies of 10Hz to 20kHz are transmitted optimally flat (frequency response). Since the wires aren’t paired together in the wiring harness, extra effort to make a soldered connection is likely fruitless in terms of maintaining frequency response.
When I was 16, I worked in a new car dealership part of my morning routine was to shine tires, before my days of detailing cars. The oil in the tire-shine spray we placed on the tires turnes to a non-shiny chocolate color and generally looks bad after sitting outside or in the sun. We ended up only shining the tires of the cars in the show room, because of the extra hastle of stripping the oils clean before coats.
Also spray chemicals onto rag, then apply.
When I was 16, I worked in a new car dealership part of my morning routine was to shine tires, before my days of detailing cars. The oil in the tire-shine spray we placed on the tires turnes to a non-shiny chocolate color and generally looks bad after sitting outside or in the sun. We ended up only shining the tires of the cars in the show room, because of the extra hastle of stripping the oils clean before coats.
Also spray chemicals onto rag, then apply.
Nice use of a Pi. I went the VAG-KKL for 409.1 pre purchased route, as it was only $5. Too bad I have the only subaru with an ECU that no one wants to touch. Just about every piece of software i’ve touched for ODBII readers i’ve installed (WinXP, Win8, Linux) are crippleware. The best supported software is the stuff that comes for free (libre) through open hacker clubs. Its nice to see you getting into it directly, by createing your own serial connection.
Nice use of a Pi. I went the VAG-KKL for 409.1 pre purchased route, as it was only $5. Too bad I have the only subaru with an ECU that no one wants to touch. Just about every piece of software i’ve touched for ODBII readers i’ve installed (WinXP, Win8, Linux) are crippleware. The best supported software is the stuff that comes for free (libre) through open hacker clubs. Its nice to see you getting into it directly, by createing your own serial connection.
It seems that people missed the boat of what the actual topic is. Its about solder vs crimp for audio connections. Audio frequency flat impatience is important for audio. All the anecdotes were for things of constant frequency or for DC signals.
It seems that people missed the boat of what the actual topic is. Its about solder vs crimp for audio connections. Audio frequency flat impatience is important for audio. All the anecdotes were for things of constant frequency or for DC signals.
Your going to college. Will you be living off loans? Do you think your Camry will survive 2 or 4 more years (the duration of college)? If Yes to any of these it appears the best financial choice is to keep the car you have. (unless you have extreme repair costs, which exceed your repair abilities then you should look for a new car).
From your tone though, it appears you aren’t concerned about financial aspects other than fuel consumption. Not an expert here, but cheap cars work well with cheap fluids and are cheap to find a mechanic for. BMWs tend to have special order fluids, and high performance metals, and getting a mechanic for this car is difficult (perhaps not in your area).
If you want a car for its prestige, you should buy in with that in mind, and become part of their club. If you want this, it will become part of your life and circle of friends. If you want a car as a financial saving commuter go with the car you have.
Your going to college. Will you be living off loans? Do you think your Camry will survive 2 or 4 more years (the duration of college)? If Yes to any of these it appears the best financial choice is to keep the car you have. (unless you have extreme repair costs, which exceed your repair abilities then you should look for a new car).
From your tone though, it appears you aren’t concerned about financial aspects other than fuel consumption. Not an expert here, but cheap cars work well with cheap fluids and are cheap to find a mechanic for. BMWs tend to have special order fluids, and high performance metals, and getting a mechanic for this car is difficult (perhaps not in your area).
If you want a car for its prestige, you should buy in with that in mind, and become part of their club. If you want this, it will become part of your life and circle of friends. If you want a car as a financial saving commuter go with the car you have.
I’m going to chime in here with some electronic theory. In a speaker system, you have many frequencies traveling through the cables, thus I’m applying a frequency analysis for audio systems of 10Hz to 30kHz. This theory does not apply to sensors or things with DC voltage.
We all know that copper wires have a resistance. This is more formally known as DC steady state resistance. If we apply an AC frequency, you’ll notice that the observed impedance (a more complex form of measuring resistance) that the impedance changes due to the skin effect (a physics phenomena where current does not like to travel down the center of a wire, but only its skin.)
. The crux of the argument is that your high end 20kHz frequencies will be dampened/reduced, up to about 34%. For higher frequencies the loss is even more dramatic, but for audio frequencies its not much. In the end, your connections account for very little length of the total run of the wire, so I don’t expect less than 3% difference.
In the end, for audio frequencies a solder is a better connection than a crimp, but not by much. But be careful about bad solder connections which look good on the outside but fail to get sucked into the copper.