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Please seal up the hole again with like some big globs of silicone sealer. Engines don’t leak as much noxious gases as in years of yore, but it’s still best to keep that stuff out of the car.
Please seal up the hole again with like some big globs of silicone sealer. Engines don’t leak as much noxious gases as in years of yore, but it’s still best to keep that stuff out of the car.
When you replace the brake pads, you have to push the caliper pistons way in and that disturbs the position of the pistons in the calipers and in the master cylinder. All that motion disturbs the positioning of the seals, and now the seals are positioned over parts of the cylinders that have not been recently used. Those flexed seals and those cylinder spots may not seal so well anymore. Also if you undo any joint, that removes the residual pressure and the seals can unflex and let in air. Happened to me many a time. You mess with the brake pads and then the master cylinder doesnt work so well anymore, or it swallows a lot of air.
When you replace the brake pads, you have to push the caliper pistons way in and that disturbs the position of the pistons in the calipers and in the master cylinder. All that motion disturbs the positioning of the seals, and now the seals are positioned over parts of the cylinders that have not been recently used. Those flexed seals and those cylinder spots may not seal so well anymore. Also if you undo any joint, that removes the residual pressure and the seals can unflex and let in air. Happened to me many a time. You mess with the brake pads and then the master cylinder doesnt work so well anymore, or it swallows a lot of air.
You might have a lot of air in the master cylinder, or bad seals in the master cylinder.
I’m assuming you’re bleeding things the right way, with two people, one of them opening and closing the bleed valve at the right times.
You might have a lot of air in the master cylinder, or bad seals in the master cylinder.
I’m assuming you’re bleeding things the right way, with two people, one of them opening and closing the bleed valve at the right times.
In order of likelyhood:
dry sway bar rubber bushings.
Bad shock or strut.
Bad other moving joint in the suspension.
I would put a bad tie rod end as a very low probability. Those usually wear out and get loose, they very rarely dry out and squeak.
In order of likelyhood:
dry sway bar rubber bushings.
Bad shock or strut.
Bad other moving joint in the suspension.
I would put a bad tie rod end as a very low probability. Those usually wear out and get loose, they very rarely dry out and squeak.
If it’s a screeching noise, more like a dying vulture than a cow, that may just be a loose power steering belt.
But it could also be a bad steering rack and pinion. Those are a BEAR to remove and replace, as they’re usually buried deep down low right in front of the firewall. Eric did a video on this, and it was quite an operation. And if the rack has been disintegrating, it certainly could be sending metal or seal particles throughout the power steering system and that would require a flush.
Do get that second opinion, but be prepared to need to have that rack replaced. The part itself is about $220, which most shops mark up 100% to cover their future warranty exposure and new gold capstans for their yacht. It could easily take 4 hours to replace it. If you go to a place that charges $100 an hour, that’s now up to $840 before even adding the surcharge for the company Christmas party in Tahiti.
You can probably get a lower cost estimate at your more grubby repair place on the other side of the tracks where the Christmas party is held at the local bowling alley.
If it’s a screeching noise, more like a dying vulture than a cow, that may just be a loose power steering belt.
But it could also be a bad steering rack and pinion. Those are a BEAR to remove and replace, as they’re usually buried deep down low right in front of the firewall. Eric did a video on this, and it was quite an operation. And if the rack has been disintegrating, it certainly could be sending metal or seal particles throughout the power steering system and that would require a flush.
Do get that second opinion, but be prepared to need to have that rack replaced. The part itself is about $220, which most shops mark up 100% to cover their future warranty exposure and new gold capstans for their yacht. It could easily take 4 hours to replace it. If you go to a place that charges $100 an hour, that’s now up to $840 before even adding the surcharge for the company Christmas party in Tahiti.
You can probably get a lower cost estimate at your more grubby repair place on the other side of the tracks where the Christmas party is held at the local bowling alley.