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It’s quite possibly just the valve cover gasket leaking. It takes some pretty serious turns in that area and it may have gotten a little bit stretched or kinked in that corner.
The oil passages are way farther in from the edge so an oil leak from those is not so likely.
Thanks, we replaced the lower knuckle bushings, which were completely shot, and we’ve ordered replacements for the front of the trailing arm bushings which were only partially frittered but groan a lot.
It wasn’t too hard to use a SawzAll to saw out the old bushings and a $30 Harbor Freight press to press in new ones.
Sure beats the almost $600 cost of replacing the whole arms.
Thanks, we replaced the lower knuckle bushings, which were completely shot, and we’ve ordered replacements for the front of the trailing arm bushings which were only partially frittered but groan a lot.
It wasn’t too hard to use a SawzAll to saw out the old bushings and a $30 Harbor Freight press to press in new ones.
Sure beats the almost $600 cost of replacing the whole arms.
That’s one of the nice things about the old analog meters, you could follow a varying reading, which you can’t do with those digitty things.
Instead of the meter try using a small bulb, like a dash bulb. Those draw like 300mA and should give you a nice visual light show of what is going on. And if you draw too much current by engaging the starter it won’t smoke the meter, the light will just turn on full bright. Sometimes the simpler tools are by far the best.
That’s one of the nice things about the old analog meters, you could follow a varying reading, which you can’t do with those digitty things.
Instead of the meter try using a small bulb, like a dash bulb. Those draw like 300mA and should give you a nice visual light show of what is going on. And if you draw too much current by engaging the starter it won’t smoke the meter, the light will just turn on full bright. Sometimes the simpler tools are by far the best.
Thanks, that’s a lot cheaper!
Thanks, that’s a lot cheaper!
It looks a little too clean to have always been uncapped like that. Look for some vacuum line hanging loose from the air intake or thereabouts.
It looks a little too clean to have always been uncapped like that. Look for some vacuum line hanging loose from the air intake or thereabouts.
Clunk is bad, you may have a sticking piston in one of the calipers.
Quite often the big rubber boot frays or tears and then water gets in there and corrodes things all to heck. It may be time to overhaul or replace the calipers. I’d suggest doing a full replacement, I’ve always had trouble getting the big piston boot back on right, and the piston and bore are still scarred up from corrosion even if you clean them off.
Clunk is bad, you may have a sticking piston in one of the calipers.
Quite often the big rubber boot frays or tears and then water gets in there and corrodes things all to heck. It may be time to overhaul or replace the calipers. I’d suggest doing a full replacement, I’ve always had trouble getting the big piston boot back on right, and the piston and bore are still scarred up from corrosion even if you clean them off.
The battery puts out sulphuric acid fumes and that corrodes the connector clamps. You can prevent that by putting on lots of grease over the clamps, inside and out, so ALL the metal parts of the clamps and any exposed wire are all solidly greased up. It sounds exactly wrong, but when you tighten up the clamps the grease moves out of the way but still covers the corrodable parts.
The battery puts out sulphuric acid fumes and that corrodes the connector clamps. You can prevent that by putting on lots of grease over the clamps, inside and out, so ALL the metal parts of the clamps and any exposed wire are all solidly greased up. It sounds exactly wrong, but when you tighten up the clamps the grease moves out of the way but still covers the corrodable parts.
Quite often it rusts out at a place where a clamp won’t fit.
You might just drive up to a muffler place. Many of them will weld it back into place for just a few bucks. It just takes a minute to raise the car up and arc weld a few spots.
Just don’t let them upsell you into new brakes, exhaust, ball-joints and an oil-change too.
Quite often it rusts out at a place where a clamp won’t fit.
You might just drive up to a muffler place. Many of them will weld it back into place for just a few bucks. It just takes a minute to raise the car up and arc weld a few spots.
Just don’t let them upsell you into new brakes, exhaust, ball-joints and an oil-change too.
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