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One of the valve lifters may be a little slow to pump up. They are very precise devices and it doesn’t take much dirt or misassembly to get one to hang up. I would not worry about it. Our 1997 Odyssey wagon has had a mild tick for the first three minutes for 140,000 miles and it hasn’t caused any problem.
Loose valve seals usually give you a blue puff on engine startup, bad rings give you the puff on revving after idling.
So you may have more of a ring-based problem.
It may be time to start running this vehicle with heavier oil, like a 10W-40.
Loose valve seals usually give you a blue puff on engine startup, bad rings give you the puff on revving after idling.
So you may have more of a ring-based problem.
It may be time to start running this vehicle with heavier oil, like a 10W-40.
Okay, so much for my wild guesses. About the only other explanation is that somehow the valve is down when the piston is going up. So it’s either sticking real hard (unlikely), or the cam follower gets wedged (also unlikely, but….) or the cam somehow gets out of position for part of a revolution and then fixes itself. I suppose it’s theoretically possible for the belt to jump up on the pulley edge for part of a rev, or a belt-tensioner to get weak, so at high revs and high valve loading the valve timing slips back. Nothing else comes to mind.
Okay, so much for my wild guesses. About the only other explanation is that somehow the valve is down when the piston is going up. So it’s either sticking real hard (unlikely), or the cam follower gets wedged (also unlikely, but….) or the cam somehow gets out of position for part of a revolution and then fixes itself. I suppose it’s theoretically possible for the belt to jump up on the pulley edge for part of a rev, or a belt-tensioner to get weak, so at high revs and high valve loading the valve timing slips back. Nothing else comes to mind.
Yep, I had exactly those same two problems. I could not get the AC clutch connector apart so the wire pulled out of the connector. I was able to glue it back into place.
Like you the radiator cap didn’t quite fit, and the store had no larger caps. I ended up gently opening up the radiator cap about 1mm wider and then it fit.
On my car the AC hose did not get in the way after I unscrewed a support bracket and turned the bracket up and out of the way.
Yep, I had exactly those same two problems. I could not get the AC clutch connector apart so the wire pulled out of the connector. I was able to glue it back into place.
Like you the radiator cap didn’t quite fit, and the store had no larger caps. I ended up gently opening up the radiator cap about 1mm wider and then it fit.
On my car the AC hose did not get in the way after I unscrewed a support bracket and turned the bracket up and out of the way.
Suddenly, it can be a wheel balance weight that fell off.
Or sometimes U-joints or CV joints start binding all of a sudden.
I would first look carefully at all the wheel rims, inner and outer, and see if there is an area where there is a change in coloration, that would suggest there had been a weight there.
The next thing is to jack up each wheel off the ground and try rotating it by hand, any binding is a bad thing. A little brake-scraping is normal, but any sudden binding at some point in rotation is bad, often a u-joint or cv joint. binding up.
Suddenly, it can be a wheel balance weight that fell off.
Or sometimes U-joints or CV joints start binding all of a sudden.
I would first look carefully at all the wheel rims, inner and outer, and see if there is an area where there is a change in coloration, that would suggest there had been a weight there.
The next thing is to jack up each wheel off the ground and try rotating it by hand, any binding is a bad thing. A little brake-scraping is normal, but any sudden binding at some point in rotation is bad, often a u-joint or cv joint. binding up.
Not ever car drips oil out when you pull out the drive shafts. But be prepared to add some. You alre pulling the drive shafts out of the side of the differential which in most cars is built into the transmission and shares the same type of lubricant. But some cars are very picky and need special oil for the differential, so check the car manual.
Not ever car drips oil out when you pull out the drive shafts. But be prepared to add some. You alre pulling the drive shafts out of the side of the differential which in most cars is built into the transmission and shares the same type of lubricant. But some cars are very picky and need special oil for the differential, so check the car manual.
The only way to get a hot nut is if the alternator is charging a lot and there is some corrosion somewhere very near the nut. All it takes is like a tenth of an ohm of resistance in the lug or the bolt connection. Power is current-squared times resistance, so 40 amps squared is 1600 times 0.1 is 160 watts, plenty enough to melt some plastic. I would swap the alternator AND put on a new connector lug, a big one, preferably soldered onto the wire, not just desultorily crimped on.
The only way to get a hot nut is if the alternator is charging a lot and there is some corrosion somewhere very near the nut. All it takes is like a tenth of an ohm of resistance in the lug or the bolt connection. Power is current-squared times resistance, so 40 amps squared is 1600 times 0.1 is 160 watts, plenty enough to melt some plastic. I would swap the alternator AND put on a new connector lug, a big one, preferably soldered onto the wire, not just desultorily crimped on.
You may have too much boost, they didn’t limit it to 0.8 for no good reason. If your exhaust valves overheat they could bind in the stem area and that would be bad.
Also if it happens on just one cylinder you may have a lean fuel condition in that cylinder that leads to higher than normal temperatures in there. Try swapping injectors between 2 and 4. if your next bent valve is in cylinder 4 you have some circumstantial evidence that it’s the injector.
You may have too much boost, they didn’t limit it to 0.8 for no good reason. If your exhaust valves overheat they could bind in the stem area and that would be bad.
Also if it happens on just one cylinder you may have a lean fuel condition in that cylinder that leads to higher than normal temperatures in there. Try swapping injectors between 2 and 4. if your next bent valve is in cylinder 4 you have some circumstantial evidence that it’s the injector.