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No pedal at all, that’s weird. You may have a big air bubble somewhere. I would check my bleeding technique too, you want it to go like this: (you) “Push”, (wife): Ok, (you) slightly loosen bleeder and watch for amber fluid or bubbles (wife) “pedal almost to floor” (you) close bleeder repeat that until you get bubbles, then keep it up until no bubbles, then three more cycles of no bubbles. Do them from passenger rear, driver rear, passenger front, driver front. Check the reservoir every five bleeds to make sure it’s got enough fluid.
It’s not likely the ABS system, that is in most designs completely closed off from the brake system until it’s in use. There is a small chance that that ABS system has an internal valve leak, in that case you need to cycle the ABS system for 100 thumps or so, the best way is on snow or loose gravel.Good paint job, for using cans. It’s unlikely GM still has any of those, so a junkyard is likely the only place. You need an “old car” junkyard, most of the car recyclers don’t keep anything older than 10 years or so, so call around. Actually, I would NOT recommend changing the air stuff, as it likely requires you to swap out a LOT of dashboard stuff. And GM never used very good plastic for those parts, so you’re likely to break the dash clips taking it out, and the “new” parts may break as you extract them from the source car or as you install them in the new one. You might even have to replace the whole air plenum assembly, and that’s a big job in most cars, and awfully uncomfortable to contort your self under and in the dash. Expect many cuts on your hands from sharp sheet-metal edges! ( On the old Acura Vigor, you had to remove the seats, steering, the WHOLE DASHBOARD, and then fiddle with a Frankenstein mess of an air assembly). Avoid if at all possible. Consider just fixing the blend doors, it could be as simple as an unhooked bowden cable or a cracked vacuum hose.
The 2011 Pilot has the woebegone Honda H5 transmission. early versions of it, before 2005 or so break every 20,000 to 70,000 miles or so– Eric replaced dozens of those when he worked at an Acura dealer. The 2011 version is considerably better than the older ones, but, watch out, it should probably be reated with excess TLC, like fluid exchanges every year or two at most, IMHO. The fluid fill and drain ports should be in the same places, a 1/2 inch square drive bolt on the bottom driver’s side, the fiull port a big 19MM hex head bolt on top of the transmission, below a bunch of air ducts and hoses and wires. I generally first put in a quart of “transmission flush”, about $8, mainly kerosene, but it levitates a whole lot of sludge. Then a day later after driving a bit, I drain out what will come out, then refill with GENUINE Honda fluid. It HAS to be the right Honda fluid, which is a bit more slippery than the default generic fluid. It doesn’t all get replaced in one go, so make a resolution to do it again two more times in the next few months.
Yep, dealers can be like that. My son and I have matching 2003 Acura TL’s, in (now) perfect condition, and the cars went in to the dealer for the airbag recall. We both got 4-page unsolicited service estimates, about $3,200 each. One dollar per cc I guess. At least they varied the alleged bad things on each estimate. As for “pitted camshafts” and “starter”, that’s the dumbest thing to pick. As everyone knows, there’s flowing oil in the camshaft area, so pitting is nearly impossible. And lack of power is not a starter issue! Dumb and dumber.
It’s probably the alternator. You can check this by turning the headlights on for a few minutes until the lights start getting yellowish a little bit. Now start the engine and the lights should get back up to normal white light. If they don’t get any brighter then the alternator or the regulator are bad. If you’ve changed the regulator, then that’s not it.
It’s probably the alternator. You can check this by turning the headlights on for a few minutes until the lights start getting yellowish a little bit. Now start the engine and the lights should get back up to normal white light. If they don’t get any brighter then the alternator or the regulator are bad. If you’ve changed the regulator, then that’s not it.
If it’s been rainy, that explains it. Rotors get rusty. The noise is accentuated by some kinds of hard brake pads. I would not worry about it.
If it’s been rainy, that explains it. Rotors get rusty. The noise is accentuated by some kinds of hard brake pads. I would not worry about it.
It can be a CV joint that is starting to bind up. Have you checked them for free rotation?
Or you could have a slightly bent wheel. It doesn’t take much of a hit against a curb or pothole to slightly bend a wheel.
Also make sure you’re not really horsing down on the lug nuts. Tighten them equally ad to spec.
It can be a CV joint that is starting to bind up. Have you checked them for free rotation?
Or you could have a slightly bent wheel. It doesn’t take much of a hit against a curb or pothole to slightly bend a wheel.
Also make sure you’re not really horsing down on the lug nuts. Tighten them equally ad to spec.
Put in some mild solvent like mineral spirits, about half a cup and some small gravel or sand and shake the heck out of it. Rinse, repeat.
Put in some mild solvent like mineral spirits, about half a cup and some small gravel or sand and shake the heck out of it. Rinse, repeat.
It could be the head gasket again.
What I’ve done once on a car that wasn’t worth redoing the whole head thing again, I took off the valve cover and cranked on the head bolts again, with another 20% more torque than spec. I had nothing to lose at that point. The car worked fine for two years after that when I sold it and the new owner hasn’t complained about any problems so it probably held for quite a while.
It could be the head gasket again.
What I’ve done once on a car that wasn’t worth redoing the whole head thing again, I took off the valve cover and cranked on the head bolts again, with another 20% more torque than spec. I had nothing to lose at that point. The car worked fine for two years after that when I sold it and the new owner hasn’t complained about any problems so it probably held for quite a while.