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It may not need replacing, maybe it just needs a little grease on the sliding gear, where it slides.
It only needs to be replaced if there is some major mechanical problem, like a scarred shaft, major corrosion, or chipped or bent teeth on the gear.
Most shops will opt for replacing the whole thing, as that’s more of a sure fix, and purely coincidentally, makes them more money.
I would check first the fuel and the air filters. Don’t change the plug wires unless you’ve tested them with a water sprinkle and they’ve failed the test.
I would check first the fuel and the air filters. Don’t change the plug wires unless you’ve tested them with a water sprinkle and they’ve failed the test.
They don’t put those time and mileage limits in the manuals for no good reason. Some statistician at the factory played with bell failure curves and jiggered the numbers until he got an acceptable number of failures below the time and mileage cutoffs. Then added a medium-sized safety factor. I had a timing belt break when I went about 40% over the recommended change miles, so, don’t wait that long for sure.
They don’t put those time and mileage limits in the manuals for no good reason. Some statistician at the factory played with bell failure curves and jiggered the numbers until he got an acceptable number of failures below the time and mileage cutoffs. Then added a medium-sized safety factor. I had a timing belt break when I went about 40% over the recommended change miles, so, don’t wait that long for sure.
It could be a momentary vacuum leak in the brake servo.
If you hold it just right there can be position where the valves are just so, so it’s trying to both vent the chamber to atmosphere AND hold the manifold vacuum valve open to recharge the chamber with vacuum, which can somewhat lower the manifold vacuum and introduce an air leak of sorts, maybe.
I would not worry about it unless that bad spot gets rather wide, or if it really bothers you.
It could be a momentary vacuum leak in the brake servo.
If you hold it just right there can be position where the valves are just so, so it’s trying to both vent the chamber to atmosphere AND hold the manifold vacuum valve open to recharge the chamber with vacuum, which can somewhat lower the manifold vacuum and introduce an air leak of sorts, maybe.
I would not worry about it unless that bad spot gets rather wide, or if it really bothers you.
That’s normal, they put some very thick silicone goo on the fuel gauge pointer to keep it from responding to every slosh in the fuel tank. Otherwise it would be annoying, like the fuel gauge in a Yugo.
You want to fix the roof leak real soon now, or you will get mold and rust and bad smells and you don’t want that.
That’s normal, they put some very thick silicone goo on the fuel gauge pointer to keep it from responding to every slosh in the fuel tank. Otherwise it would be annoying, like the fuel gauge in a Yugo.
You want to fix the roof leak real soon now, or you will get mold and rust and bad smells and you don’t want that.
You must mean milliamps, like 50 milliamps, not 50 amps. Most car batteries are good for around 50 amp-hours, so a 50 amp drain would drain the battery in an hour, not 3 days.
If the drain is really 50 milliamps, that’s good for 1,000 hours or about 40 days. If the battery is going dead in 3 days, it must have an internal self-discharge rate of about .75 amps. 72 hours times .75 amps is about 50 amp-hours. Anyway, if you don’t have that much of a parasitic load, either the battery has this kind of internal leakage, or you have that much of external leakage through the battery surface.
You must mean milliamps, like 50 milliamps, not 50 amps. Most car batteries are good for around 50 amp-hours, so a 50 amp drain would drain the battery in an hour, not 3 days.
If the drain is really 50 milliamps, that’s good for 1,000 hours or about 40 days. If the battery is going dead in 3 days, it must have an internal self-discharge rate of about .75 amps. 72 hours times .75 amps is about 50 amp-hours. Anyway, if you don’t have that much of a parasitic load, either the battery has this kind of internal leakage, or you have that much of external leakage through the battery surface.
Then most likely the battery self-discharges. There is no test at a store that can detect this.
Either the battery has an internal discharge path through its chemistry, or there is a small chance if the battery top is very dirty that can conduct a bit. The usual remedy is a tablespoon of baking soda and your old toothbrush and a little water. Clean a one inch circle around each battery terminal.
If that doesn’t help you need a new battery.
Then most likely the battery self-discharges. There is no test at a store that can detect this.
Either the battery has an internal discharge path through its chemistry, or there is a small chance if the battery top is very dirty that can conduct a bit. The usual remedy is a tablespoon of baking soda and your old toothbrush and a little water. Clean a one inch circle around each battery terminal.
If that doesn’t help you need a new battery.
Suggestions:
It’s almost impossible for the battery or the connections to be the problem. Next time you turn the key, watch the dome light. If it stays bright as you turn the key, the problem is not the battery or starter or battery connections.
First thing, snip out the alarm system, completely. Many of these are flaky. If it unplugs from its wiring harness, that’s almost as good a thing, although often the problem is in the shoddy installation work where the wires end up scraping metal.
Next, when you turn the key, do you hear a click? That would tell us the ignition switch is probably okay.
Next, have somebody around with a small hammer. When you turn the key, and nothing happens, have them rap on the black or gold soup-can that’s mounted on the starter while you’re holding the key to “start”. If it then starts, then the problem is a sticking starter relay/solenoid. Very commmon too.
Have you tried replacing the ignition switch? These are a common point of failure on Hondas.
Suggestions:
It’s almost impossible for the battery or the connections to be the problem. Next time you turn the key, watch the dome light. If it stays bright as you turn the key, the problem is not the battery or starter or battery connections.
First thing, snip out the alarm system, completely. Many of these are flaky. If it unplugs from its wiring harness, that’s almost as good a thing, although often the problem is in the shoddy installation work where the wires end up scraping metal.
Next, when you turn the key, do you hear a click? That would tell us the ignition switch is probably okay.
Next, have somebody around with a small hammer. When you turn the key, and nothing happens, have them rap on the black or gold soup-can that’s mounted on the starter while you’re holding the key to “start”. If it then starts, then the problem is a sticking starter relay/solenoid. Very commmon too.
Have you tried replacing the ignition switch? These are a common point of failure on Hondas.