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Since Eric hasn’t responded, I’ll toss in my two bits.
Auction cars are the dregs of the dregs. They are cars that were traded in to a dealer and the dealer did not want them to be besmirching their holy used car lot. So they’re the cars the owner’s didn’t want, and that the dealer didn’t even want hanging around. The dregs of the dregs.
Then again, they might make a fine “project car”, if you want a real loooong project and maybe a considerable challenge.
Since Eric hasn’t responded, I’ll toss in my two bits.
Auction cars are the dregs of the dregs. They are cars that were traded in to a dealer and the dealer did not want them to be besmirching their holy used car lot. So they’re the cars the owner’s didn’t want, and that the dealer didn’t even want hanging around. The dregs of the dregs.
Then again, they might make a fine “project car”, if you want a real loooong project and maybe a considerable challenge.
It could be due to almost anything– condensation on the ignition wires, a microscopic crack in the distributor cap, or a malfunctioning cold-start enrichment valve or a stuck choke on a really old car.
I would start by figuring out if it’s due to lack of gas or spark. When it doesn’t start on a cold day, take the filter off the air intake and squirt in some gasoline or ether starting fluid. If it then starts right up, but then dies or runs poorly for a while, it’s probably due to lack of gas– like a bad enrichment valve, or a bad temp sensor, or a stuck choke on a really old car.
If that doesn’t get it started, the problem might be lack of spark, so on a good day when it’s running, squirt some water all over the ignition wires and the distributor and coil and see if that causes it to stumble and/or die.
That will help narrow down the problem.
And oh, if it cranks over ever so slowly on a cold day, you might need a new battery, or maybe a switch to thinner winter or synthetic 5W-20 oil.
It could be due to almost anything– condensation on the ignition wires, a microscopic crack in the distributor cap, or a malfunctioning cold-start enrichment valve or a stuck choke on a really old car.
I would start by figuring out if it’s due to lack of gas or spark. When it doesn’t start on a cold day, take the filter off the air intake and squirt in some gasoline or ether starting fluid. If it then starts right up, but then dies or runs poorly for a while, it’s probably due to lack of gas– like a bad enrichment valve, or a bad temp sensor, or a stuck choke on a really old car.
If that doesn’t get it started, the problem might be lack of spark, so on a good day when it’s running, squirt some water all over the ignition wires and the distributor and coil and see if that causes it to stumble and/or die.
That will help narrow down the problem.
And oh, if it cranks over ever so slowly on a cold day, you might need a new battery, or maybe a switch to thinner winter or synthetic 5W-20 oil.
It’s practically impossible for a solenoid to go UP in resistance, there’s just no mechanism for that. Go completely open, yes. Partially short, and go down in resistance, well, not very likely, but possible I guess. And get corroded terminals, yes. So the problem is probably not in the solenoid. I would suspect goo or varnish blocking the solenoid from moving or blocking some internal passage.
It’s practically impossible for a solenoid to go UP in resistance, there’s just no mechanism for that. Go completely open, yes. Partially short, and go down in resistance, well, not very likely, but possible I guess. And get corroded terminals, yes. So the problem is probably not in the solenoid. I would suspect goo or varnish blocking the solenoid from moving or blocking some internal passage.
I guess it depends when the last valve inspection or adjustment was done.
If it’s been more than like 50,000 miles or you hear significant clattering it’s probably due.
Although Honda engines can often go much longer without making much valve clattering, even when the engine is cold.
I guess it depends when the last valve inspection or adjustment was done.
If it’s been more than like 50,000 miles or you hear significant clattering it’s probably due.
Although Honda engines can often go much longer without making much valve clattering, even when the engine is cold.
Start at the power source, follow the wires to each switch, through each switch, to the load, then out the other side of the load to chassis ground which goes back to the battery. Every live circuit is a complete loop.
Start at the power source, follow the wires to each switch, through each switch, to the load, then out the other side of the load to chassis ground which goes back to the battery. Every live circuit is a complete loop.
Yeah, that indicates the grease is stiffer in cold weather, or the metal parts just bind up more in the cold.
Yeah, that indicates the grease is stiffer in cold weather, or the metal parts just bind up more in the cold.
Best thing I’ve found is to use analogies, apt analogies. Amps are a measure of flow, like water, like gallons per second. Volts are somewhat like height. Thick wires are like wide pipes. Insulators are like blockages. Switches are like valves.
Best thing I’ve found is to use analogies, apt analogies. Amps are a measure of flow, like water, like gallons per second. Volts are somewhat like height. Thick wires are like wide pipes. Insulators are like blockages. Switches are like valves.
It may not need replacing, maybe it just needs a little grease on the sliding gear, where it slides.
It only needs to be replaced if there is some major mechanical problem, like a scarred shaft, major corrosion, or chipped or bent teeth on the gear.
Most shops will opt for replacing the whole thing, as that’s more of a sure fix, and purely coincidentally, makes them more money.