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You sound like the guy that went looking for his lost car keys under the streetlamp, because it was so much easier to see things there.
Problems are where they are, not where we wish they were.
Your problem sounds like a slowly getting worse internal transmission problem and nothing like a CV joint or axle problem. It could be an easy fix, fixable by changing the filter and fluid, or it might require a whole new transmission. Good luck.
In my experience if it’s a low growling sound, it’s a rusty strut or top strut bearing. if it’s a higher pitched squeal or schreech, a loose power steering belt. If it’s more like marbles rustling, air in half of the power steering system. I don’t know why sometimes these predominate in one direction more than the other.
In my experience if it’s a low growling sound, it’s a rusty strut or top strut bearing. if it’s a higher pitched squeal or schreech, a loose power steering belt. If it’s more like marbles rustling, air in half of the power steering system. I don’t know why sometimes these predominate in one direction more than the other.
It wouldn’t have to be a full accident, just skidding on ice and bumping a curb could bend things. Don’t ask me how I learned this.
What’s educational is to look at any curved length of curb, like say the exit to my local post office parking lot. It’s a east to north curved turn, not cambered properly and gets icy. The curb has about 50 diagonal slash scars on it, just what would happen if 50 cars skidded into the curb and the tires bottomed out and the wheel edge scarred the concrete. Could be the source of 50 alignment problems right there.
It wouldn’t have to be a full accident, just skidding on ice and bumping a curb could bend things. Don’t ask me how I learned this.
What’s educational is to look at any curved length of curb, like say the exit to my local post office parking lot. It’s a east to north curved turn, not cambered properly and gets icy. The curb has about 50 diagonal slash scars on it, just what would happen if 50 cars skidded into the curb and the tires bottomed out and the wheel edge scarred the concrete. Could be the source of 50 alignment problems right there.
The cars have very delicate engines, they often leak a little coolant from a crack in the radiator outlet and then the whole engine self-destructs in just a few minutes.
I would avoid these cars altogether. They sure look nice but they can be a bottomless money pit.
This particular car, the engine power problem could be a $6 air filter or a $6000 engine, more likely nearer the latter.
TO survey a car, go to google and type “this car model problems forum”.
The cars have very delicate engines, they often leak a little coolant from a crack in the radiator outlet and then the whole engine self-destructs in just a few minutes.
I would avoid these cars altogether. They sure look nice but they can be a bottomless money pit.
This particular car, the engine power problem could be a $6 air filter or a $6000 engine, more likely nearer the latter.
TO survey a car, go to google and type “this car model problems forum”.
half-truth, and it doesn’t include the worst bit.
A different size tire on a driven wheel will affect the speedometer reading. The speedometer is calibrated for the size tires the car was sold with.
Now a different size tire on one side is bad in other ways– the wheel will spin at a slightly different rate, and that may confuse the ABS and traction control sensors, if any, and will cause the differential to be constantly spinning a bit. Not totally deadly, unless the traction sensor tries to compensate by applying the brakes a bit on the fast spinning side. And oh, I hot a light-pole once because I had a very worn tire on one side and spun out on ice.
half-truth, and it doesn’t include the worst bit.
A different size tire on a driven wheel will affect the speedometer reading. The speedometer is calibrated for the size tires the car was sold with.
Now a different size tire on one side is bad in other ways– the wheel will spin at a slightly different rate, and that may confuse the ABS and traction control sensors, if any, and will cause the differential to be constantly spinning a bit. Not totally deadly, unless the traction sensor tries to compensate by applying the brakes a bit on the fast spinning side. And oh, I hot a light-pole once because I had a very worn tire on one side and spun out on ice.
Thanks, so I guess a noobie rebuild is right out. I looked at a few auto rebuild videos on YouTube and wow, so many parts, so many judgement calls on whether certain bands are worn or passable. And even Eric’s rebuild of the Odysey transmission did not work out so well.
Thanks, so I guess a noobie rebuild is right out. I looked at a few auto rebuild videos on YouTube and wow, so many parts, so many judgement calls on whether certain bands are worn or passable. And even Eric’s rebuild of the Odysey transmission did not work out so well.
It depends. Quite often a blown head gasket is just a symptom, the car may have been overheated and driven a long ways and that may have warped the cylinder heads. Now sometimes it’s just a $30 head gasket, which you may be able to do yourself for no labor $$$, but sometimes it’s a $300 head replaning job and sometimes it’s a $1200 new heads job. Or worse, it’s possible that the aluminum head bold threads are stripped, then it’s even more.
You also have to consider what the rest of the car needs. Often a car that has been perhaps mishandled and driven rough will have other and expensive maintenance problems.
It depends. Quite often a blown head gasket is just a symptom, the car may have been overheated and driven a long ways and that may have warped the cylinder heads. Now sometimes it’s just a $30 head gasket, which you may be able to do yourself for no labor $$$, but sometimes it’s a $300 head replaning job and sometimes it’s a $1200 new heads job. Or worse, it’s possible that the aluminum head bold threads are stripped, then it’s even more.
You also have to consider what the rest of the car needs. Often a car that has been perhaps mishandled and driven rough will have other and expensive maintenance problems.
Ahh, I see, but there is a little angle you may be missing.
You’re showing your professional, $ per job techniques to us noooobies that don’t know how hard we can pull on that air intake and are not driven by working as fast as possible.
So there’s the risk of us getting the impression that it’s best for US to work in that manner, with every part.
Now I know that you pros are doing exactly what is best for you in that situation. If I was getting paid by the job, and every second wasted was a little less food on the table, I’d do exactly as you do.
But those of us with less knowledge, and more time on the weekend, and who don’t have such easy access to parts, just perhaps for us it’s a bit better, and doesn’t cost for us to work a bit more delicately?
For instance the last time I replaced a head gasket on a VW Rabbit, I took a little extra time, laid out all the bolts on the bench, cleaned them up with a brush and kerosene, and put little dabs of anti-seize on the threads. I even painted the heat shield with hi-temp paint. None of that was officially “necessary”, but it sure made the job more pleasant and helped keep me with the right attitude.
Now you, being a pro, know exactly what can be left dirty and what internal parts have to be scrupulously clean, but for us simpletons, working with clean parts can have its advantages.
Regards,
George
Ahh, I see, but there is a little angle you may be missing.
You’re showing your professional, $ per job techniques to us noooobies that don’t know how hard we can pull on that air intake and are not driven by working as fast as possible.
So there’s the risk of us getting the impression that it’s best for US to work in that manner, with every part.
Now I know that you pros are doing exactly what is best for you in that situation. If I was getting paid by the job, and every second wasted was a little less food on the table, I’d do exactly as you do.
But those of us with less knowledge, and more time on the weekend, and who don’t have such easy access to parts, just perhaps for us it’s a bit better, and doesn’t cost for us to work a bit more delicately?
For instance the last time I replaced a head gasket on a VW Rabbit, I took a little extra time, laid out all the bolts on the bench, cleaned them up with a brush and kerosene, and put little dabs of anti-seize on the threads. I even painted the heat shield with hi-temp paint. None of that was officially “necessary”, but it sure made the job more pleasant and helped keep me with the right attitude.
Now you, being a pro, know exactly what can be left dirty and what internal parts have to be scrupulously clean, but for us simpletons, working with clean parts can have its advantages.
Regards,
George