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I’ve never seen anything quite like this, it looks like you might have hydraulic lifters on top of the valves? I say this because I don’t see any valve adjustments or shims. So maybe one of those pistons under the cams is stuck. The usual symptom is that some of the time, when you start it up, there will be that tick tocking noise, and then it goes away, usually suddenly, in a few minutes. You see if the engine stops with the peak of the cam pressing down on the lifter, the lifter will drain down while the engine is stopped, then it’s supposed to fill up with oil in the first few revolutions on the next startup, but sometimes the internal piston gets stuck down for a while and then suddenly frees up. If the engine stops NOT at the cam peak, the piston won’t be pushed down and the engine will run fine at next startup. So it seems like you have these exact symptoms. The cure is to use a screwdriver or stethoscope to pinpoint which lifter or lifters is the noisiest, carefully remove the camshafts, carefully inspect and clean the lifters, inside and out, especially the most suspect ones.
It’s probably more due to to competition from other chains that are better at marketing. These days to be a success you have to play all the angles– cheap oil changes, which brings folks in, and wadda you know, a good 25% of them can be uphold on premium oil and nitrogen in the tires and hey, looky here, your brake pads are more than half gone, we so happen to have a special on brake jobs on any month with a vowel in it. Remember a while back when Sears was fined like $46 million for requiring the service managers to average at least $200 a car?
It’s probably more due to to competition from other chains that are better at marketing. These days to be a success you have to play all the angles– cheap oil changes, which brings folks in, and wadda you know, a good 25% of them can be uphold on premium oil and nitrogen in the tires and hey, looky here, your brake pads are more than half gone, we so happen to have a special on brake jobs on any month with a vowel in it. Remember a while back when Sears was fined like $46 million for requiring the service managers to average at least $200 a car?
That’s a pretty lousy method.
About 20% of the time the coil secondary has opened up and you’ll measure infinite ohms and THEN the meter reading is 100% definitive and helpful.
But the other 80% of the time either moisture has gotten into the coil, and that won’t change the meter reading, or a single turn-to-turn short has happened in either the primary or secondary, and that’s too miniscule a change to see on any meter. The primary has dozens of turns, so a turn-to-turn short will only change the resistance by a percent or two, to small to make a noticeable difference. The secondary has thousands of turns and a short there makes even less difference.
The only halfway correct way is to hook up a 1/4 inch spark gap to the secondary, apply 12 volts to the primary, and look for a healthy snap and a spark when you break the applied 12 volts off.
That’s a pretty lousy method.
About 20% of the time the coil secondary has opened up and you’ll measure infinite ohms and THEN the meter reading is 100% definitive and helpful.
But the other 80% of the time either moisture has gotten into the coil, and that won’t change the meter reading, or a single turn-to-turn short has happened in either the primary or secondary, and that’s too miniscule a change to see on any meter. The primary has dozens of turns, so a turn-to-turn short will only change the resistance by a percent or two, to small to make a noticeable difference. The secondary has thousands of turns and a short there makes even less difference.
The only halfway correct way is to hook up a 1/4 inch spark gap to the secondary, apply 12 volts to the primary, and look for a healthy snap and a spark when you break the applied 12 volts off.
Hmm, well Eric’s idea is an ingenious one, but not quite 100% perfectomundo. Bubbles always float to the top, so that’s why the bleed screw is always at the topmost point of the caliper. The banjo or screw fitting is usually NOT quite so high, so even if you bleed through that, you will get some air out but probably only get about 70% of the air out.
I suggest you dismount the caliper again, drain out the fluid, heat it up with a propane torch and use a 6-point socket to unscrew the bleed screw. And replace it with a new bleed screw, as you’ve now annealed it into the consistency of 5 year old bubble gum.
Hmm, well Eric’s idea is an ingenious one, but not quite 100% perfectomundo. Bubbles always float to the top, so that’s why the bleed screw is always at the topmost point of the caliper. The banjo or screw fitting is usually NOT quite so high, so even if you bleed through that, you will get some air out but probably only get about 70% of the air out.
I suggest you dismount the caliper again, drain out the fluid, heat it up with a propane torch and use a 6-point socket to unscrew the bleed screw. And replace it with a new bleed screw, as you’ve now annealed it into the consistency of 5 year old bubble gum.
Radiators could get resoldered until about 1972, because they were made of copper tubing and brass end caps. Since then they’ve gotten thinner and flimsier and made out of aluminum foil and fragile black plastic and pink fairy-glue. You can’t rod them out or resolder anything. You just go and buy a new $89 radiator which will last another 4 to 5 years. Such is life.
Radiators could get resoldered until about 1972, because they were made of copper tubing and brass end caps. Since then they’ve gotten thinner and flimsier and made out of aluminum foil and fragile black plastic and pink fairy-glue. You can’t rod them out or resolder anything. You just go and buy a new $89 radiator which will last another 4 to 5 years. Such is life.
It depends. If you live south of Mason City, Iowa, you may be able to remove all the bolts using Barbie’s My First Socket Set.
You can see several videos on YouTube of guys (why is it always guys?) with middlin to deep southern accents showing you how easy it is to do these things. How nice for them.
But if you live in the Land Of Ice and Snow the bolts may be very firmly rusted into the nuts and through-bushings. Sometimes you can heat up the captive nuts and get the bolt out of the nut, but much more often the bolt will not break free of the bushing and the bushing will just spin free of its rubber mounting and you’ll have to order the whole control arm. So keep a Harbor Freight $19.95 4 inch electric cutoff saw handy. You may need it. See this pic:? Three things about it: (1) The center hole, used to be a rubber bushing in there (2) See the little shiny spot? That’s where the ABS hlddown screw was before it snapped off, under the mildest of encouragement to unscrew. See the big shiny thing at the right? that’s the bolt that went through the wheel hub, it had to be cut out and pried from its mounts. And this was after using Liquid Wrench, PB blaster, heat, impact air gun, and cursing.
I’ve done like six sets of these and every time had to get new rear control arms. The front ones don’t get quite that bollixed up. Your results may vary and be better than as described here but be forewarned.
It depends. If you live south of Mason City, Iowa, you may be able to remove all the bolts using Barbie’s My First Socket Set.
You can see several videos on YouTube of guys (why is it always guys?) with middlin to deep southern accents showing you how easy it is to do these things. How nice for them.
But if you live in the Land Of Ice and Snow the bolts may be very firmly rusted into the nuts and through-bushings. Sometimes you can heat up the captive nuts and get the bolt out of the nut, but much more often the bolt will not break free of the bushing and the bushing will just spin free of its rubber mounting and you’ll have to order the whole control arm. So keep a Harbor Freight $19.95 4 inch electric cutoff saw handy. You may need it. See this pic:? Three things about it: (1) The center hole, used to be a rubber bushing in there (2) See the little shiny spot? That’s where the ABS hlddown screw was before it snapped off, under the mildest of encouragement to unscrew. See the big shiny thing at the right? that’s the bolt that went through the wheel hub, it had to be cut out and pried from its mounts. And this was after using Liquid Wrench, PB blaster, heat, impact air gun, and cursing.
I’ve done like six sets of these and every time had to get new rear control arms. The front ones don’t get quite that bollixed up. Your results may vary and be better than as described here but be forewarned.
I have replaced several Honda wheel bearings, each time taking the thingy to a shop or garage. Most of them if they’re not too busy can press it in and out right then or they will call you a few hours later. They’ll charge you $10 to $40 to do it.
It’s not too hard to remove the assembly yourself, but it sure helps if you have an impact wrench.
Also in the colder and saltier climates you can get frustrated if the bolts don’t come off, you often have to apply extra heat or sometimes even have to get a whole new cast iron piece if the bolts won’t come out of the bushings.
I have replaced several Honda wheel bearings, each time taking the thingy to a shop or garage. Most of them if they’re not too busy can press it in and out right then or they will call you a few hours later. They’ll charge you $10 to $40 to do it.
It’s not too hard to remove the assembly yourself, but it sure helps if you have an impact wrench.
Also in the colder and saltier climates you can get frustrated if the bolts don’t come off, you often have to apply extra heat or sometimes even have to get a whole new cast iron piece if the bolts won’t come out of the bushings.
