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[quote=”Bluesnut” post=76437]Valve lash should be checked and adjusted as necessary every 30k miles although that is seldom done. The factory recommendations, and not just Honda, are bogus.
The ones you should really be sweating about are the quiet ones; especially on the exhaust side of things.[/quote]
To expand on this ominous warning, what they’re alluding to is not cam or cam follow wear, which leads to loose and clickety valve trains, but when the exhaust valve or its seat wear down, which leads to less valve lash. If the lash goes to zero, then the valve is never quite fully being pushed down onto its seat by thw spring, there is always a little pressure from the cam. This is very bad, as if the valve starts to leak, the hot gases quickly start eroding away the valve seating surfaces, leading to an even poorer seal, and more erosion, and higher valve temperatures, and that can quickly go downhill into a catastrophe. Not so much on Honda engines, but it used to be a real problem in the old air-cooled VW’s.[quote=”Bluesnut” post=76437]Valve lash should be checked and adjusted as necessary every 30k miles although that is seldom done. The factory recommendations, and not just Honda, are bogus.
The ones you should really be sweating about are the quiet ones; especially on the exhaust side of things.[/quote]
To expand on this ominous warning, what they’re alluding to is not cam or cam follow wear, which leads to loose and clickety valve trains, but when the exhaust valve or its seat wear down, which leads to less valve lash. If the lash goes to zero, then the valve is never quite fully being pushed down onto its seat by thw spring, there is always a little pressure from the cam. This is very bad, as if the valve starts to leak, the hot gases quickly start eroding away the valve seating surfaces, leading to an even poorer seal, and more erosion, and higher valve temperatures, and that can quickly go downhill into a catastrophe. Not so much on Honda engines, but it used to be a real problem in the old air-cooled VW’s.I would not worry about ABS. Over a billion dollars have been spent on ABS systems, and it’s not clear that a single life has been saved as a result.
Just pull the ABS fuses and go on with your life. The systems are designed to fail-safe, when they’re not powered they’re just a dead box teed off the brake lines, your normal braking system will still function as always.
I would not worry about ABS. Over a billion dollars have been spent on ABS systems, and it’s not clear that a single life has been saved as a result.
Just pull the ABS fuses and go on with your life. The systems are designed to fail-safe, when they’re not powered they’re just a dead box teed off the brake lines, your normal braking system will still function as always.
When the engine is knocking, shut it off and check the gap between the low part of each cam and the cam follower or piston. It should be very small, like close to zero. Each piston has a little Spring which should reduce the gap to Zero . You will have to crank the engine a few times to get all the cams off their high points. You will probably find one or two with a gap.
When the engine is knocking, shut it off and check the gap between the low part of each cam and the cam follower or piston. It should be very small, like close to zero. Each piston has a little Spring which should reduce the gap to Zero . You will have to crank the engine a few times to get all the cams off their high points. You will probably find one or two with a gap.
Shocks go bad so slowly you never notice it, until you replace them and then you go WOW no more bucking and swaying.
5 years is probably a good rough guide as to when they’re ripe for replacement.
Shocks go bad so slowly you never notice it, until you replace them and then you go WOW no more bucking and swaying.
5 years is probably a good rough guide as to when they’re ripe for replacement.
Okay, so it’s not leaking in the heater core. that’s good. But it’s leaking somewhere else. Likely from the heater hoses or ay their clamps. You will need a flashlight and maybe some coolant system dye to find the exact spot of the leak. Better do this before it gets much colder.
Okay, so it’s not leaking in the heater core. that’s good. But it’s leaking somewhere else. Likely from the heater hoses or ay their clamps. You will need a flashlight and maybe some coolant system dye to find the exact spot of the leak. Better do this before it gets much colder.
If it’s leaking through the heater core you will be getting that warm sweetish smell when you turn on the heat and the windows will get this sticky foggy goop on them. There is a heater core in there somewhere, you can start by seeing where the heater hoses go through the firewall and follow the hoses from there.
If it’s leaking through the heater core you will be getting that warm sweetish smell when you turn on the heat and the windows will get this sticky foggy goop on them. There is a heater core in there somewhere, you can start by seeing where the heater hoses go through the firewall and follow the hoses from there.
Yes, those are possible culprits– and it could also be distorted brake rotors or loose ball joints or loose steering arms, or a bent wheel rim or a bulging tire or one or more of the above.
If the vibration is at about the speed of the tires, then it’s more likely not an engine mount. If the vibration is fast, like 5 to 10 times a second, then it’s more likely an engine mount. And of course it can be mounts and rotors and suspension.
Yes, those are possible culprits– and it could also be distorted brake rotors or loose ball joints or loose steering arms, or a bent wheel rim or a bulging tire or one or more of the above.
If the vibration is at about the speed of the tires, then it’s more likely not an engine mount. If the vibration is fast, like 5 to 10 times a second, then it’s more likely an engine mount. And of course it can be mounts and rotors and suspension.
I’ve never seen anything quite like this, it looks like you might have hydraulic lifters on top of the valves? I say this because I don’t see any valve adjustments or shims. So maybe one of those pistons under the cams is stuck. The usual symptom is that some of the time, when you start it up, there will be that tick tocking noise, and then it goes away, usually suddenly, in a few minutes. You see if the engine stops with the peak of the cam pressing down on the lifter, the lifter will drain down while the engine is stopped, then it’s supposed to fill up with oil in the first few revolutions on the next startup, but sometimes the internal piston gets stuck down for a while and then suddenly frees up. If the engine stops NOT at the cam peak, the piston won’t be pushed down and the engine will run fine at next startup. So it seems like you have these exact symptoms. The cure is to use a screwdriver or stethoscope to pinpoint which lifter or lifters is the noisiest, carefully remove the camshafts, carefully inspect and clean the lifters, inside and out, especially the most suspect ones.