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Currently don’t have an easy way to test the Map sensor.
Seen some videos on it where they supply 5v and then start pulling a vacuum on the sensor to test the voltage it gives.
I do have the service manual but I can’t access it due to my PC being dead as the manual uses IE ActiveX to run.
Torque is just giving me P0106, nothing else.
The OBD Scan tool is just giving me P0600.
The two codes it says it is detecting are both P0600, one has #07E8 the other is #07E8bd[quote=”Tods213″ post=191575]YES. The Ford Focus is well known for engine/transmission mount failure. While they may appear to be in good nick, they can be the cause of many vibration issues. In my opinion, you should not only replace the pictured mount but also replace the other two mounts. One is located on the back of the transmission underneath. The other is below the air filter box on the driver’s (American) side. You will need a hydraulic jack and a block of wood to support the engine while you replace them. Takes about an hour or two. Furthermore, I’ve read many a blog with complaints about aftermarket mounts failing in the short term and strongly recommending genuine Ford mounts.[/quote]
Genuine is $300 or so for the the top one pictured and my mum might be getting rid of the car soon.
[quote=”nightflyr” post=191576]No where can I find where the ford mount is oil filled.
It appears to be a rubber to metal mount.
So unless you see signs of the rubber separating or tearing it should be fine.As to the fluid..
Check around the area for anything that may be leaking. IE.. power steering, valve cover etc.[/quote]Power steering is electric on this car.
The stain is dry and since it is directly under the mount I assumed the mount was oil filled.I am wondering why he is wearing those sunglasses all the time, even when doing his live talks inside the house.
Does he think they make him look cool?
His he hiding his bloodshot eyes due to lack of sleep, drugs.ect?Because of laws i think.
IIRC In australia you need to sell a dealership car with a user manual
[quote=”ElthorTheLandStander” post=169590]Personally, I’d have one book that details vital vehicle maintenance and safety info, and another for all the superfluous crap.[/quote]
This sort of thing will mean people will find it easier to change things like bulbs.
It is in a thin booklet with big pictures rather than going through a .5″ or thicker book.Both drive by wire and cable systems have throttle bodies
Look for something like this around the throttle body
If you see a cable you can manual adjust the speed by pulling the cable gently.
If you see electrical wires like this you have a drive by wire.
Is the car an auto?
could be transmission mounts but best wait for a chap that knows more about cars to answer.
But since the noise only happens when the transmission is in Drive or reverse and having power power put into it, it might be something involving the transmission or around it.
Also make sure the wheel lug nuts are all tightened correctly.
They can make a clacking sound when the car is being driven[quote=”Emily160612″ post=163411]Hey guys, I have a problem with my 02 Nissan Altima 2.5L
When driving between 2k and 3k RPMs I hear a noise kind of a knocking noise which is constant, I mean the frequency doesn’t change as I speed or increase the RPMs! I’t always the same! I have no idea where it’s coming from, I can also reproduce the noise without driving, just by pressing on brakes and the gas at the same time to get it up to 2k RPM and I hear the noise. I know I’m burning a lot of oil so I wonder if piston rings can cause the noise!Any ideas? Please help! Thank you!
PS: the noise has been there for a while, thicker oil didn’t help, lucas didn’t either![/quote]
Dont keep the car in drive and while your on the brake and accelerator, doing so puts load on the engine, transmission and will cause an overheat dinvr the car is not moving forwards you dont have any air going through the radiator and the fans can only remove so much heat.
Put the car in Park or Neutral(in a manual) and get the RPM to the area by using the accelerator alone
Only use the oil which is recommendedNow how many miles on the car?
Does the car have drive by wire or is it a throttle cable type system?
If it is a throttle cable, open the throttle valve manually where it meets the throttle body.This way you can hear where abouts the noise is coming from.
[quote=”northerndean” post=163018]Wow 9 pages of responses!
Ok well heres my 2 cents.
Speaking strictly for all newbie DIYers, we should all really thankfully appreciate any info we are being offered FREE OF CHARGE!
If you really don’t like someone’s style of presentation well that’s just a minor difference of personal opinion.
Surely one could simply choose not to view that persons offerings ever again rather than malign him or her in any way!
This the view from the North.[/quote]Yes I agree we should be grateful for the advice people like eric give out.
But scotty did say sees no need to buy a full set of tires, In this youtube chat I asked why de doesnt rotate back to front and front to back this was his response
ah, but that doesn’t do much, they are still on the same side with the forces on that side which wear differently from the other side. that’s why older style tires are cross rotated.
When your giving out advise which IMO seems wrong(he seems to be saying no use to rotate back to front and front to back as the one side still has more wear), I got told you should always rotate the tires.
And if you are doing DIY auto maintenance videos you should avoid giving the wrong advise.Bleeding the system is pretty much the same as on any car.
The spill free funnel eric uses is not bad, you wont make a mess like the guy did in the video(even if it can be moped up you dont want to go spilling it), if your car has a bleed valve crack it open to let some air out.
You can also check the service manual for your car on doing it.
1: just drive it easy, dont race the car, short shift
Look in the user manual for what oils you can use.
In some places the oil like 75W-90 might not work well in very cold places where as something like 85W-90 might but like i said look in the manual to see what is recommended for your car or go to the dealer and ask the service desk on what oil they use during winter2: When down shifting it done foot off accelerator>press clutch in fully>change gear>blip throttle>release clutch>foot on accelerator or brake.
3: I would say a driving school, if the one you used was bad look for another
Have you had your clutch inspected?
IIRC if you are having issues getting it in and out of gear it is because the clutch is not fully disengagedBut take all this as advice, I am not 100% perfect at driving manual
At times I get slip the clutch a little due to not matching the RPM fully during my upshifts.[quote=”plokiu” post=150766]I see him as more like an actor who makes a living making YouTube videos rather than a true car mechanic who tries to share his skills and teach the viewers. If he can’t make videos on car repairs anymore, he’ll have no problem making videos on any other subject (i.e. gardening) because he’s just more of an actor.[/quote]
I can understand what you mean marsplex.
I hate stupid intro where he comes screaming in and then speeds, but most of the things he talks(well yells) about are his opinion(which everyone can have).
It is stupid to buy 4 new tires at the same time or keyless start cars are stupid.
But I don’t get why he wears those sunglasses all the time, he even wears them inside when doing the live chat.Most of his how to fix videos are under 5 minutes which is not enough time to really guide someone through it.
IMO its more like the advice for assembling flat pack furniture
(put part A to part B and use screw L and insert into Fig 9)Eric goes though the entire process from diagnosing to starting the fix from jacking the car and so forth
Might have been easier and possibly cheaper to get a new engine for the NA MX-5
Heck a 1.8 from an NB would have made the ride much more fun to drive.In Australia we have 94 E10. 95, 98, diesel and LPG and some stations do E85.
I use 95 in my impreza, I had issues with E10 in my civic(when coming to the lights the RPM would drop down to 500 at times), these issues went away with the switch to 95.Plus you use more petrol when you run E10 compared to 95.
E10 is the cheapest
95 is about 8cents more or so
98 is 25cents more than E10But this does depend on the fuel cycle and current oil pricing
Always use what the manual(owners or service) states
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