[Paul]

I found some OK diagrams on autozone’s website. Since radio, heat/ac, accessory circuit etc didn’t work I started looking for commonalities. In addition to the ignition switch I found that a circuit referred to as AM1 supplied voltage to all the circuits that weren’t working. I had previously checked all ignition fuses and relays and accessory fuses etc. I found the fuse for that AM1 circuit and it was bad. Replaced and everything started working. Only problem now is that the engine has really bad rod knock lol. Guess my friend didn’t get too lucky on this one but he got it for fairly cheap. Found acceptable donors around here too.

Just wanted to update in case it helps anyone.

[Paul]

The ignition switch was replaced by previous owner right before my friend got this, so it has a new key. I don’t see a security/transponder light anywhere in the car so I don’t think it needs to be a transponder key. In reading descriptions and watching videos I noticed a non-transponder key still cranks the car it just doesn’t start so I’m definitely having something else going on too. I found a diagram for the ignition switch and I think it’s ok. It turns on the ebrake indicator and check engine indicator on the gauge cluster but doesn’t seem to do anything else. I was getting 12v for the ignition circuits and the start circuit. The ignition fuses and accessory fuses are ok as well. I have not checked the starter relay itself yet but I don’t think that matters for the accessory circuit. They replaced starter and the battery before he got the car. Battery terminals aren’t the best but I’ve always been able to turn on the radio on other cars, even when battery terminals were really bad. Still keeping that in mind but I even tried attaching jumper cables in various positions to the terminals from another battery to try and rule out bad terminals. The wire side of the terminal looks good.

That’s why I’m wondering if it’s some weird control box that I’m not thinking of.

[Author]

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