Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Certainly did! It’s buried underneath all of that intake, and I wasn’t going to go back in there just for the PCV. It’s a newbie! Great tip!
When it takes a breaker bar to torque off the Motorcraft oil filter… There’s your sign. I’m playing the fool for trying to save the engine, I guess.
So, after taking it to a reputable shop, we have finality. The good news is, timing was on. Yay me. The bad news is the engine was toast. Below is a picture my buddy took while I was greasy a few months ago. It highlights the sludge and how pitted the camshaft and cam lobes were. The end diagnosis was the cams and valves had gotten too hot (i.e. previous owner’s obvious (in)attention to oil and the sludge). Everything had been toasted to a solid crisp. Re-manned engine is going in and should be done this week.
My wallet hurts, but my pride is back! Jokes. Why did I buy this car again???
Here’s where I’m at.
King’s Ford took a “diagnosis” look at it. (keep in mind I drove it 14 miles from my mechanic to them – that’s it). They claim it has a code for clogged catalytic converters (there was no code 14 miles ago? and no CEL during the drive?). Their technician – by only listening to the engine and checking the non-existent codes – decided it must have a bent valve and the timing was off. They won’t do anything besides drop a used new-to-me engine in it and do the exhaust…. for $5500.
Heck no.
So, I’m gonna pick up my still DRIVING vehicle with absolutely no error codes. I have no clue where to go at this point. My mechanic doesn’t have the shop time for a job this big, and I work full time. There’s no home-gamer on this one.
Any and all suggestions welcome. Paid 3.5k for the car and it’s got 98k miles with a good body and interior. It just needs to work again.
Exactly. That’s how 98% of timing chains and belts are done. The 3.0L duratec has no TDC mark. The procedure is laid out in this link. With this procedure, you don’t actually need a true TDC mark or calculation – as long as the chain doesn’t slip or move. It took me 4-5 times reading through before I understood exactly, but it makes sense. http://www.aa1car.com/library/mazda_ford_timing_chain_replace.htm
But we did. I had a friend with experience with timing chains/belts over. We double checked everything at every step. When I told him the mechanic thought it was off, he didn’t believe it. Also interesting, the Escape had a rough idle with misses and varying RPMs before as well. It didn’t full out stall like it does now, but it had very similar symptoms.
My apologies for the “long time – no see.”
Here’s where we are at. I replaced the Crank Sensor with a Motorcraft OEM part. No luck. Then, I brought it to my mechanic who hooked up his smoke machine and did not find any vacuum leaks. When he ran his scan tool, he saw the same thing I had been seeing. The engine runs with acceptable fuel trims, but the crank sensor goes in and out of timing. It’s like the engine is searching for proper timing and can’t find it. He believes the timing chain that this 200 lb gorilla put on there in the garage is off by a tooth. He won’t touch it because of how long the job takes; It’s not cost effective.
King’s Ford here in Mason, OH can’t get me in until next week. My wife has revoked my “home-gamer mechanic” abilities (and I don’t have the time). I just need the thing sorted out so we can drive it. Heck, I’d spend the day with a mechanic as extra hands and pay him full price to get it done.
Any other suggestions?
All is back together. No oil leaks yet! Unfortunately, it’s not idling. Seems to be missing at low RPMs and eventually dying. If the AC compressor is on, the engine basically does not idle at all. It has not thrown a light yet. Neighbor brought over his SnapOn Solus? and we found the crank sensor is not reading. Part is on order, then we will try again. Any input is appreciated! IAC tests well as does the TPS. No vacuum leaks that I can find.
