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[goblazers]

thanks for the suggestions. I’ve seen Eric’s video about spraying carb cleaner, haven’t got the nerve to try it yet. Might give it a try once I get the fire extinguisher handy.

[goblazers]

thanks for the suggestions. I’ve seen Eric’s video about spraying carb cleaner, haven’t got the nerve to try it yet. Might give it a try once I get the fire extinguisher handy.

[goblazers]

Good news and bad news:

Good news is that with the new igniter and coil, the car now starts. I believe the problem was the igniter.

Bad news is that the engine again seemed to momentarily lose power when I applied gas to go up a hill – same as before – although it didn’t die this time.

Is it possible that when the engine momentarily stalled that it stressed the old igniter to the point it failed?

Anyway I guess I need to look into this engine problem further. Don’t think it’s a misfire, it seems to be a bigger ‘jolt’.

[goblazers]

Good news and bad news:

Good news is that with the new igniter and coil, the car now starts. I believe the problem was the igniter.

Bad news is that the engine again seemed to momentarily lose power when I applied gas to go up a hill – same as before – although it didn’t die this time.

Is it possible that when the engine momentarily stalled that it stressed the old igniter to the point it failed?

Anyway I guess I need to look into this engine problem further. Don’t think it’s a misfire, it seems to be a bigger ‘jolt’.

[goblazers]

Checking the (-) terminal of the ignition coil while cranking the engine doesn’t show switching voltage anymore – the voltage seems to stay around 10-12v. From the “No Spark Diagnosis” video that suggests the igniter control module (ICM) is bad.

Today I took the ICM to Autozone and it failed their test.

I’ve already ordered a new OE coil and ICM so am hoping that when those arrive the car will be moving again.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to consider the cam/crank/tdc sensors from the distributor.

[goblazers]

Checking the (-) terminal of the ignition coil while cranking the engine doesn’t show switching voltage anymore – the voltage seems to stay around 10-12v. From the “No Spark Diagnosis” video that suggests the igniter control module (ICM) is bad.

Today I took the ICM to Autozone and it failed their test.

I’ve already ordered a new OE coil and ICM so am hoping that when those arrive the car will be moving again.

If that doesn’t work, I’ll have to consider the cam/crank/tdc sensors from the distributor.

[goblazers]

Thanks Eric for your feedback on coil failure and resistance.

The car now will not start at all. (I’ve updated the subject line)

Since I last posted, I was able to get the car to die by running the engine at ~3000 rpm while at neutral for a minute or so. The CEL came on and showed code 15 when checked. I didn’t see spark on spark plug #1. Initially I did see a spark at the coil. But after repeating this experiment a couple of times (run engine until the problem occurs) I did not see spark at the plug or the coil and now the car will not start at all.

Since the aftermarket coil was under warranty, I got a new one and tried it out – still no start, and no spark at the plug. Starting to wonder if the cylinders are now flooded.

Other details / thoughts:

* measured 12v at the distributor blk/yel wire (the 2 pin one)

* Related threads have suggested checking the ground connection on the thermostat, so I’ll check that.

* I do hear fuel pump run for a few seconds when turn the key to (II), that rules out main relay right?

* Will take the ignitor control module to Autozone to check. I did see switching voltage on the (-) coil terminal but that was with a multimeter, not a test light.

[goblazers]

Thanks Eric for your feedback on coil failure and resistance.

The car now will not start at all. (I’ve updated the subject line)

Since I last posted, I was able to get the car to die by running the engine at ~3000 rpm while at neutral for a minute or so. The CEL came on and showed code 15 when checked. I didn’t see spark on spark plug #1. Initially I did see a spark at the coil. But after repeating this experiment a couple of times (run engine until the problem occurs) I did not see spark at the plug or the coil and now the car will not start at all.

Since the aftermarket coil was under warranty, I got a new one and tried it out – still no start, and no spark at the plug. Starting to wonder if the cylinders are now flooded.

Other details / thoughts:

* measured 12v at the distributor blk/yel wire (the 2 pin one)

* Related threads have suggested checking the ground connection on the thermostat, so I’ll check that.

* I do hear fuel pump run for a few seconds when turn the key to (II), that rules out main relay right?

* Will take the ignitor control module to Autozone to check. I did see switching voltage on the (-) coil terminal but that was with a multimeter, not a test light.

[goblazers]

FYI, testing the coil as mentioned in the service manual,

1. primary resistance (between + and – terminals): 0.9-1.0 ohms [spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms]
2. secondary resistance (between spring and + terminal): 16.8kohms [spec is 13.2 – 19.8 kohms]

so #1 looks out of spec.

Attachments:

• ScreenShot2014-03-30at10.42.56AM.png

[goblazers]

FYI, testing the coil as mentioned in the service manual,

1. primary resistance (between + and – terminals): 0.9-1.0 ohms [spec is 0.6-0.8 ohms]
2. secondary resistance (between spring and + terminal): 16.8kohms [spec is 13.2 – 19.8 kohms]

so #1 looks out of spec.

Attachments:

• ScreenShot2014-03-30at10.42.56AM.png

[goblazers]

Thanks college man for your advice.

The entire distributor was replaced by a local repair shop about 20k miles ago, I’m 95% sure it’s aftermarket. (I wish I’d known enough at the time to only have them replace the coil.)

Anyway, from the FAQ it sounds like aftermarket distributors don’t work well with Hondas so I was thinking about replacing not only the coil ($95) but maybe the ignitor ($90) and maybe even the distributor housing ($110) with OE parts. Seems like they don’t sell the entire OE distributor anymore.

[goblazers]

Thanks college man for your advice.

The entire distributor was replaced by a local repair shop about 20k miles ago, I’m 95% sure it’s aftermarket. (I wish I’d known enough at the time to only have them replace the coil.)

Anyway, from the FAQ it sounds like aftermarket distributors don’t work well with Hondas so I was thinking about replacing not only the coil ($95) but maybe the ignitor ($90) and maybe even the distributor housing ($110) with OE parts. Seems like they don’t sell the entire OE distributor anymore.

[goblazers]

1) The civic service manual flowchart told me to check the distributor voltage on the 2pin connector, which looked ok. It then referred to a test harness which I don’t have, so that’s as far as I got there.

2) Following Eric’s no spark diagnosis video :

I see :

* no spark coming out of the coil spring when I put a screwdriver close to it.
* The negative terminal of the coil does show switching voltage when I attempt to start.

The problem with all these observations is that they are intermittent – the problem seems to happen more often when the engine gets warm and then goes away after I let it sit for a while.

Anyway, my guess is leaning toward a bad coil (which is only 4 months old, but an aftermarket part.)

Does anyone have any ideas of things I should check before ordering the OEM coil?

[goblazers]

1) The civic service manual flowchart told me to check the distributor voltage on the 2pin connector, which looked ok. It then referred to a test harness which I don’t have, so that’s as far as I got there.

2) Following Eric’s no spark diagnosis video :

I see :

* no spark coming out of the coil spring when I put a screwdriver close to it.
* The negative terminal of the coil does show switching voltage when I attempt to start.

The problem with all these observations is that they are intermittent – the problem seems to happen more often when the engine gets warm and then goes away after I let it sit for a while.

Anyway, my guess is leaning toward a bad coil (which is only 4 months old, but an aftermarket part.)

Does anyone have any ideas of things I should check before ordering the OEM coil?

[goblazers]

Managed to get the CEL code:

15 – ignition output signal

I’m going to try following the civic service manual flowchart and see how that goes. I’ll also check that no-start faq as well, thanks.

[Author]

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