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Ouch, I have broken plenty of HF bars.
Like you can see in this video, I broke their Bearing removal tool trying to get the bearings out.
Ouch, I have broken plenty of HF bars.
Like you can see in this video, I broke their Bearing removal tool trying to get the bearings out.
I actually placed the bushings how Whiteline suggested they would go from their instructions. I have not found any issues with this setup.
Make sure when you are done, you TQ everything to spec and you recheck the torque in about 50 driven miles to make sure they are good.
In case you need it:
I actually placed the bushings how Whiteline suggested they would go from their instructions. I have not found any issues with this setup.
Make sure when you are done, you TQ everything to spec and you recheck the torque in about 50 driven miles to make sure they are good.
In case you need it:
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nissan-350z-factory-service-manuals.html
I started out swapping tires, then suspension parts, then engine fixes.
Ohh wait this was at a tire shop only…
I started out swapping tires, then suspension parts, then engine fixes.
Ohh wait this was at a tire shop only…
I will check the motor mounts this weekend. Things seem to be pointing in that as an issue…
What sucks is that she changed insurances several months after her last accident, so I think talking to them to cover the fix costs will be wasted time
I will check the motor mounts this weekend. Things seem to be pointing in that as an issue…
What sucks is that she changed insurances several months after her last accident, so I think talking to them to cover the fix costs will be wasted time
Thank you for your response and affirmation that the pulley needs replacing. I have never worked on a vehicle with an automatic tension pulley so that was new to me.
The collision was honestly very superficial. I saw the car at the crash site, and though one can never be 100% sure of the damage, it seemed to be mostly cosmetic, the radiator had not even moved from its stock position. Granted, after she got the car back I had to move some things around that were placed incorrectly by the body shop, as well as add some bolts that were missing. Honestly I was not happy with the job and I could not really argue with her insurance since the car was deemed “used” when she bought it. I also know the shop used “used” parts as part of their rebuild so anything they swapped out at this point could be making noise.
The ECU is not throwing any codes, and no issues are noticed when the car is placed in neutral. Usually in my experience the car will continue to have issues if its cylinder related even in neutral, and especially in gear. ( like my Z when 2 of the spark plug packs fried)
I did not check her engine mounts, but the engine seems to stay in position when getting into gear ( as in you put the car in drive with the brake in and see if it moves a whole lot, at least that how I check if they have gone bad, outside of directly looking at them)As for the tool to get the tensioner off I think I might order this, and hope it fits with the clearing, unless you have any suggestions for a 50T Torx bit.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/2lj1emf.jpg[/IMG]
Thank you for the link, I did find that prior to this issue and I will defiantly use is to get her car back to working condition.
Thanks Eric again!
Thank you for your response and affirmation that the pulley needs replacing. I have never worked on a vehicle with an automatic tension pulley so that was new to me.
The collision was honestly very superficial. I saw the car at the crash site, and though one can never be 100% sure of the damage, it seemed to be mostly cosmetic, the radiator had not even moved from its stock position. Granted, after she got the car back I had to move some things around that were placed incorrectly by the body shop, as well as add some bolts that were missing. Honestly I was not happy with the job and I could not really argue with her insurance since the car was deemed “used” when she bought it. I also know the shop used “used” parts as part of their rebuild so anything they swapped out at this point could be making noise.
The ECU is not throwing any codes, and no issues are noticed when the car is placed in neutral. Usually in my experience the car will continue to have issues if its cylinder related even in neutral, and especially in gear. ( like my Z when 2 of the spark plug packs fried)
I did not check her engine mounts, but the engine seems to stay in position when getting into gear ( as in you put the car in drive with the brake in and see if it moves a whole lot, at least that how I check if they have gone bad, outside of directly looking at them)As for the tool to get the tensioner off I think I might order this, and hope it fits with the clearing, unless you have any suggestions for a 50T Torx bit.
[IMG]http://i60.tinypic.com/2lj1emf.jpg[/IMG]
Thank you for the link, I did find that prior to this issue and I will defiantly use is to get her car back to working condition.
Thanks Eric again!