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I removed the alternator and the bearing was making noise when I spun it. I replaced the alternator and I checked the AC ripple and still over 50 millavolts. I don’t why that it? PCM issue not able to control it?
Here is a video showing the pip and signal changes when spout plugged in.
I used the voltmeter to check the AC ripple. On the AC scale it shows 60 to 70 millavolts. I compared that to my daily driver and it only shows 20 millavolts. So the AC ripple on the alternator is bad.
I did check for continuity on the power and spout wire and it is good. The alternator voltage is steady at 14.5. I will get it tested and see if it is bad.
I notice when i disconnect the spout the wave form is much squared and better looking, but when i plug in the spout the wave form isn’t nice. Any ideas why would that be? What could be the problem?
I tried and the car will not start up with the rotor being off. I don’t know how i could of mess up the drive gear and roll pin relationship. The gear and pin goes in and lines up one way. Do i rotate the rotor 180 before or after i remove the gear?
No I didn’t rotate the crank when the distributor was out. The mark is set at 10 degress tdc. It seems like im off 1 or 2 teeth. I did try positioning the rotor at 10 o’clock and it didnt come close to my mark
I got the new clutch master cylinder and how do I remove the line nut that goes to the clutch master cylinder? There is no room at all to get a line wrench on the nut. Does the brake booster need to come off?
I did try a manual bleed and got the same results. When I get the new clutch master cylinder, does it need to be bench bled first before installing?
I used the Mityvac vacuum pump to bleed the slave cylinder. The original slave cylinder had a leak by the boot. The master cylinder is still at the full mark, and I checked it again by the pedal and master cylinder for leaks and none found.
I borrowed an old Snap On Vantage scope and I hooked it up to the pip wire on the module and here are some pics of the waveforms. From looking at the wave forms, I think these are bad waveforms from the pip sensor? Shouldn’t the waveforms be a nice even square wave? From looking at these waveforms it tells me 100% that the pip sensor is bad and not producing a good signal?
[IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/242v2wp.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i59.tinypic.com/25qxavt.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i62.tinypic.com/4ilcp5.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i58.tinypic.com/24xi443.jpg[/IMG]I ran the car again and it was hard to start but once it warmed up it ran great and the check engine light did not come on?? Is this an intermittent problem with the pip? Is this a common thing with the pip sensor? I don’t want to buy a distributor if the pip is not the problem. I checked the grounds and they are good. I do have a 5 volt reference from the TPS, and IAT..Another thing when the car runs and I turn on the AC, the engine slowly runs rough and sounds like it will die, and I turn off the AC it runs normal. Any ideas? Is there a test I can do to make sure 100% the PIP is bad?
The calipers are new, I removed the hard line from the master cylinder and no fluid came out. I shot some compress air in the port and the fluid came out. So there is some crap or dirt in the master cylinder that was blocking the port. I connected everything and I was able to get a hard brake pedal to bleed the brakes. I want to remove the master cylinder & the reservoir to clean it out. If I take off the master cylinder do I have to bench bleed the master cylinder before reinstalling it?