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Another question. I noticed the crank timing sprocket has a slight rotational play to it. Just enough to make a tapping noise if i rotate it with my hand. Is this normal? The crank looks fine. Note this isn’t play in the crank itself, but the timing sprocket that slides over it. The crank on this car doesn’t have a woodruff key, it just has a notch machined into the crank itself. The gear has a matching notch that slides into the notch on the crank. I’m wondering if torquing the pulley bolt down keeps it from wiggling or is this bad.
Here is an example of the gear:
I don’t always get OEM parts, but I definitely get ones from a reputable brand. This time, I will not lie, I purchased a cheap pump off the net. I have learned my lesson…
Well I got it back apart. New water pump is junk. When turn it in my hand and I can hear it whining!
Yes I replaced the belt, tensioner, idler, and water pump. The tensioner marks are pretty close. Maybe a hair towards the tighter side looking down in there. It’s been running for several hundred miles now.
I guess I’ll rip it back apart and try again then.
Yeah it’s either in the intermediate or the rack in both cases. I think the intermediate is the culprit. I’m thinking about leaving it though.
Holy crap Wyr. I didn’t realize you are also a member of Aveo forums and had posted on the same forum I reopened. Lol that’s funny.
An update:
I ended up getting the proper sized tap at Napa and was able to use it to push the crud out of the first few threads. The first 3 or so threads weren’t the best looking, but the rest were solid. I found the proper bolts at Home Depot and tested the threads before running the inner though. I got the inner trough and got it to to tighten down really well and put a ton of red locktite on it. The threads held me wrenching on it with all my might so I think it should be good.
Thanks everyone!
Well I was hoping to just be able to make the tie rod go through those first few threads because the rest are perfectly fine. Like I was saying if you look at the new tie rod, where those bad threads exist on the rack itself, there actually are no threads on the tie rod in the matching place. The threads end before the tie rod is actually screwed in completely. So there would be no threads gripping there anyways. Am I thinking about this right?
Yeah I definitely agree with what you see. It’s not so much as the rack itself is stripped and more that old inner threads are stuck in the threads of the rack. The racks threads are slightly damaged, but the damage is right there at the beginning where the inner tie rod doesn’t have threads anyways. I just need to get through that crap at the beginning without damaging my new part. I’ll give those suggestions a shot and report back.
