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It’s not that replacing the switch isn’t the final goal – which will require pulling the door apart – and I believe removing the window assembly as well to get to the switch. I was hoping to be able to get at it from where the wires come in from the door (either cut the wire, or short it) for now until I have the time to muck with the whole door.
I wondered about the seat because there is wire harness under the seat and wondered if the sensor wire was inthere, and somehow getting shorted when pressure (person sitting) was put on the seat.
Since this is on the dash, and not in the column – that will reduce the amount of things to tear up.
Since I’m replacing both the switch and tumbler – I don’t really care if it’s destroyed. – as long as the mounting bracket survives.I checked with the dealer – it’s about $45.00 to do a key vs $45.00 for a new tumbler (and extra work getting the old one out)
so it’s a wash on the cost. but it would be double the cost if the dealer’s key did not work because it’s been changed in the past.but if the tumbler’s been changed in the past – that new key won’t work. And since the one key we do have (no chip) won’t turn
the ignition switch – it only opens door/trunk/glovebox – I’m thinking it’s been changed.It’s never been an issue, as we would use the FOB to unlock the car – never really tried manually using the key to open the doors,
I seem to recall the guy we bought it from saying you had to use the FOB for the doors (it was a couple years ago).If a key doesn’t have the chip that should only stop it from starting, it should still turn the switch however? Correct?
What does a dealer charge for a replacement key?
Can the entire lock and plug be removed without the key? To be honest, I don’t know if the ignition in the car is the original to start with,
it was purchased used at 90,000 and the previous owner did a lot of work on it himself.We have another key (without the chip) that opens the doors/trunk/glovebox – but does not turn the ignition (I realize it shouldn’t start the car
without the chip – but shouldn’t it still turn?) – which is why I’m thinking it may have been changed in the past – which might be a problem
if it were cut from the original key at the dealer.I’m looking at a replacement tumbler with keys (and chip) for $50.00
and the electrical portion at $40.00 (which is looking like I need to do anyway)Thank you very much. Those are colors even being slightly color blind I should be able to still follow!
GG
What is “bar over”? Do you mean one full camshaft rotation?
Thanks. after a few more searches with some new key words….looks like it’s a 15mm bolt.
GG
In this case, I’m looking for a is it seized or not test. Half the plugs are hidden. Usually this would be the last step in the no crank s, cenario, but given it was after a major overheating episode with almost no oil as well……I’m jumping to the end first then I’ll check , if that passes then I’ll happily assess the starter and friends….
I will most likely be doing this in about a week on my sons car. So I ordered this from ebay:
Ebay – Wrench for lower housing bolt
Also, the housing for the lower bolt is slotted, so you should just have to loosen the bottom bolt, remove the top bolt and the housing should slid off the lower bolt…..should…..Guess I’ll find out next week!
GG
Are you sure it wasn’t there before you parked?
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