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Update: Problem Solved.
If was indeed the theft deterrent system that was blocking the starter.
Luckily, he found his keys (and more importantly the FOB!) so he was able to disarm the system and all is well.
Otherwise, if none of the below worked, I would have had to install a starter bypass (which for safety reasons, I really didn’t want to do….)
potential tricks to disarm the system with a working key without the FOB (his car does NOT have a chip system, only the FOB)
1. put key in door, turn to the left, then all the way to the right – should disarm the system
2. put key in ignition turn to run, don’t crank, leave for 30 seconds, then crank
3. same as above but for 30 minutes instead of 30 seconds
4. disconnect battery for about 15 or 20 minutesBut didn’t need to – found keys – that’s the easier solution…..at least for me.
One other thing. When he locked the car – he used the fob – he has since not been able to find the fob.
He used his spare key to unlock the door, and is using that to try to start the car.
I was told the 2004 sonata doesn’t have any chips in the keys, and I thought I used the spare key to drive his car before.But….I don’t remember if I used the fob to lock it first, then the spare to unlock and drive.
I found this in a search……”Here is what I think is going on, the ETACS is in theft mode, you can leave the key on with the battery charged for 30 minutes and see if it resets”
Would there be any idiot light on that means theft mode?
I didn’t really think about fuses. Which fuse system would stop the starter from cranking? I didn’t think the starter was fused.
Any particular system for the neutral safety system? He said all the lights look normal when you turn the key, it just doesn’t crank
no noise at all. Doesn’t it just go from the ignition to the NSS to the solenoid?GG
Our old Malibu – 1999 same engine. When it was misfiring like crazy – it was one of the spark plug wires arcing to ground.
Get somewhere really dark, and run the engine.
I was able to see the sparking – also heard the “popping”.
Replaced that one spark plug wire and it was good after that.
take a wire with an alligator clip on it, clip it to the starter (small bolt) – not the wire from the battery to the big bolt on the starter.
Then (while standing to the side of the vehicle) – touch the wire to the positive of the battery – I say stand to the side, just by some odd chance,
that car is in gear – you do not want it to run you over.That will eliminate the ignition switch and neutral safety switch – if it still only turns a 1/4 crank
Could the idle speed just need to be bumped up a tad?
Also, it may be the coil pack has a crack – that will cause rough idle as well.
GG
here’s an off the wall theory……
Could when you filled the engine with the new oil, could a piece of the foil you puncture at the top, possibly dropped in with the oil?
Could that even cause a problem? maybe cause a blockage of the oil?Well, replaced the alternator, all seems fine now.
And what a deal (at least I really really hope it was a great deal) I got on the alternator off of Amazon.
When I was searching for the alternators, all were around $100 to $280 except at the bottom of the list
there was one listing of an AC Delco Professional – fulfilled by Amazon for $25.00 (reman – but with a
full warranty) – 2 left in stock. Well, I bought both – and with amazon prime, 2 day free shipping.What was odd, was when I clicked on the line item from my invoice, the price was no longer $25.00
but back up at $280.00 and now wasn’t fulfilled by Amazon, but a auto parts store.I’m thinking Amazon was just clearing out their warehouse, and dropped the price of those alternators
but they arrived, looked absolutely fine – and seems to be working just fine – and now I also have a spare
in case is was just another cheap reman.So, scored (2) alternators for $50.00 – so the moral is keep scrolling – sometimes you might find a really
good deal at the bottom of the list!!We did purchase it – even with the check engine code (used that to drop the price a couple hundred). Took it to the mechanic today.
He thinks it’s a solid drivetrain – and that the CEL is just the sensor (thinks the previous owner replaced it before with the wrong one).It’s a great little car – UNTIL you need to change a fuse (we blew out the cigarette lighter fuse) – Well, I’m not 4’5″ and 100# so
my body in no way was able to fit upside down with my head by the break pedal – just so I could change a fuse. Since it was
at the shop for evaluation, we are having them change the fuse. I seriously thought I was going to get wedged in place between
the steering wheel and the seat, and have to lay on the horn to get someone to help pry me out of there. Thank god my kids
weren’t looking – or that would have been the next viral youtube video!!!I might have been able to work with a mirror to visualize while working blind (except for the mirror).
The only thing I really don’t like, is that the power outlets (12v) aren’t active when the key is out – so you can’t charge a phone
unless the key in place. it’s cool it has a built in 100W inverter and lots of little storage areas – great headroom for taller people,
just those people can’t change the fuses.Just curious, if the synchronizer wasn’t turning the oil pump, would I see any dash lights come on?
Just wondering, I did a quick test drive, everything ran fine, but when I shutdown the car, it made those cooling off noises for longer than I remember it from before.
not really sure what the problem was…..
I’m guessing that maybe I wasn’t seated properly on the oil pump rod and off to the side??I removed the unit again – reseated it – and now this time the hold down bolt kept it in place.
Of course…..I sheared off one of the sensor bolts putting that on, but the other one is pretty tight.Car started and runs good – the chirp is gone, as is a lot of the other noise.
I still have a whine – much much quieter – but I noticed my idle is slightly higher – maybe because the battery was disconnectedSo…now I have to buy another synchronizer and do this all over again……to fix that sheared bolt
given the cost of the synchronizer – it’s easier to replace it than to try to deal with the drilling out the bad bolt.And now I know what I need to do…..it should take 1/2 the time……right….right….keep telling myself that.
I did call my mechanic and asked him if it ever happened to him (bolt not tightening), and he said he has never had
it happen, and suggested reseating it to make sure it was flush. He did always tell me if I was in a jam to give him a
call – that’s why i like bringing my stuff to him – he’s honest and helpful even when it doesn’t give him $$ at the time.I’ll have to give him a $20 WAWA card – if you don’t know what a WaWa is……I’m sorry to hear that (like a 7-11 but far better)
GG
I was looking more for a “whatever you do, don’t get a ….” – which I don’t seem to be finding. a good thing.
Getting it looked at is difficult – it’s a private sale and the car isn’t tagged or insured anymore – so aside from mechanic costs, also involves towing costs.
This is a referral from a friend, who has respect for the seller as far as honesty – and the only thing he has had to do in the 4 years he has owned it was
replace an O2 sensor – as well as regular maintenance. Of course the previous owner we know nothing about. It was last driven last month, the registration expired at the end of February, and they didn’t want to renew it if they were selling it – so at least it wasn’t a vehicle that has sat for the last 3 or 6 months and was a frequently driven car as well.It sounds good, drives good – a couple minor issues (I’m told it has that fan clicking in the dash issue) – I’ll be taking it to my mechanic after the sale to give it a once over, with fingers crossed and breath held. We did get a slightly lowered price – but price wasn’t so much the issue – it was more vehicle reputation I was after – and like I said, I haven’t known anyone who has owned a vibe (or matrix) to ask how their was.
One thing we were surprised at, was the headroom inside – it’s a lot bigger than it looks.
Here hoping for the best….
Replaced the idler and tensioner pulleys – whine still exists – but the idler pulley looked like it had a little wobble
so these were an easy enough fix. – cam synchronizer will be another weekend.Using the stethoscope – It is fairly loud on the alternator, but I can also hear it on the water pump and power steering pump
– not ready to swap out the alternator just yet.This is one of the times that knowing what normal noise sounds like using the stethoscope is important to know when
the noise your hearing is abnormal – and this I may have to take to my mechanic to let me know what is normal and what is not.One very strange thing – you can barely hear the whine under the hood, but when your inside the car the whine is very noticable.
Is that basically the chassis acting as a conduit for the vibrations and I’m inside this chamber making it louder??Thanks. I watched that video earlier today.
How do you listen to a moving pulley? without getting background scraping noise from the tip grinding against the pulley as it moves?
The last time I checked the pump was full – that would be my first check – have my baster ready.
I’ll only be changing the fluid though in the reservoir at this time instead of the full flush – even if the level is good.My plan for this weekend is the cam synchronizer – since the temps are going to be in the 50’s vs the 20’s this week!
If it turns out to be the idler pulley – I may swap that one out – that’s not too expensive for the inter paycheck week.I’ll see if I can record the whine on my phone and post that as a sample whine!
Thanks
After much debate – we have decided to scrap the car. After the cost of replacing the hoses, gaskets and getting the heads checked/replaced – even if I did all the work (except the machine shop on the heads) it’s too much to invest. I did consider buying a junk car for the heads but then there would be towing costs and then it would be just as much to fix the existing ones.
Not to mention it needs tie rod ends, and one (maybe more) of the pullys has a bad bearing (the shop thought it was the idler – but didn’t look into it)
Sometimes it’s just as difficult to decide NOT to fix as it is to actually fix it.
Thanks for the info