Forum Replies Created
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Conventional @ 10,000 intervals?!!?
HOLY #%÷%'[]!!
Yeah that engine is likely trashed inside. Sludged and varnished. Probably even doing a re-ring wouldn’t buy it much more life. Find a JDM replacement or trade car in.
Rick
Backfiring through the intake? You need to double check your distributor timing.
What are your compression numbers? I’ve seen that engine fail to start due to fuel washing the oil off the cylinder walls and creating a low compression condition. A little oil down each spark plug hole (tiny bit at a time) seals the rings up and will get them started again. Sounds like maybe something that could have happened while the car sat waiting for parts and maybe was ran too short a time when cold washing the cylinders with fuel.
Rick
Agreed – Japanese engines seem to suffer from oil control ring carbon build up. It’s a function of oil quality and oil change frequency. If using non synthetic then oil change intervals must be strictly adhered to. Better to use synthetic as it handles higher temps for much longer. But once the oil control rings are impacted with carbon the only thing you can do is pull the pistons, clean them up, and install new rings. DO NOT hone the cylinders. We do re-ring and skirt knurling on Subaru engines – about two to three a week – they go 6,000 miles on synthetic with no oil consumption after the procedure.
Rick
You can’t really get parts for that stuff anymore and those 80’s Japanese carbs are very complex and need all their extraneous vacuum controls. Trust me none of that stuff is worth your time.
Rip it all off and install a Weber DGV. Performance, and likely economy will increase and they are very simple. I did one not long ago on an 88 Accord. It was like a different car.
Rick
Just Google the ultrasonic cleaner. Harbor Freight has one for like $40.
Simple Green is water based. You can buy it anywhere in concentrate. I have an injector test bench and it came with its own ultrasonic tank. The manufacturer recommended simple green for the cleaning tank. For cleaning all it does it run a 10 minute cycle where it pulses the injectors as they sit in the ultrasonic tank. If a few cycles through that doesn’t clean it up then get a new injector.
Rick
Looks like the hill holder wasn’t available till ’03 and I don’t see a fork return spring listed for that model. So you most likely do need to re-bleed the system. It’s tricky you need to remove the slave from the bellhousing, remove the dust boot and rod and clamp the slave full compressed using a socket and a C-clamp. Then have an assistant slowly push the pedal down with the bleeder open. Once it’s down close the bleeder and slowly return the pedal back up. Watch the level in the reservoir – it should drop about 1/4″. If it doesn’t pump the pedal up and down with the bleeder closed then stop and wait for the level to drop. Do this a couple times till you don’t get any more air from the bleeder. And you need to put the pedal assist spring back on. It pulls the pedal all the way up and refills the fluid chamber of the master for the next stroke. It’s important to the self adjustment of the system.
The mounts are the same. Here’s the part numbers:
D1010FE110
D1010FE120
D1010FE020Rick
I recently had to do this on a Mitsubishi 4G63 (400 AWHP, all Cosworth internals B)) to delete the counter balance shafts – not my choice but customers old engine had none of the components for the two counter balance shafts and budget didn’t allow obtaining them so the new (used, machined) block had to have the cam bearings rotated to block the oil passages. I bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-18000-Universal-Camshaft-Bearing/dp/B0002SQZQ8
It worked AWESOME.
Pretty reasonable price ($140) considering. I can always use another tool.
Rick
Generally that’s some kind of internal trans bearing issue. The throw out would make noise with the clutch in, and the pilot would make noise when the clutch is being slipped. Clutch out noise is usually input shaft bearing. If there are internal trans bearing issues it could cause shaft misalignment inside the trans and make gear engagement difficult or cause it to pop out of gears. Sounds like rebuild or replace trans which isn’t uncommon for the Civic of that era. The manual transmission on those cars is known for that.
Rick
Tubing is measured by OD. Use a pair of calipers or even a tape measure. It may be metric but very often it crosses over to an SAE size. Like metric brake line is often 4.75mm which is essentially the same as 3/16″.
Remember your conversion factor – 25.4 is your factor for converting to and from metric.:
4.75 ÷ 25.4 = .187 = 3/16
Rick
No it is not hard to use under the car. The wing nuts on the bar are designed to be used with the included steel rod (handle), and the force required is really a factor of how you chamfer and deburr the end of the line. Watch Eric’s review of the Eastwood tool and prepare the line as he did for use with that tool. He says he chamfered the end of the line too much but in my experience that’s about right. If you deburr the line ID with a drill bit then the OD chamfer will not need to be quite so wide. Split the difference but the end of the line should almost be sharpened like a round hole punch. Like this :
/
Then the effort will be much less.
Another old timer trick – the flaring bar sometimes has a hard time gripping the tubing and the anvil will push it through the bar rather than flaring it. Applying a little bit of valve grinding compound to give it more grip on the tubing helps a lot. Same trick works for preventing screwdriver cam-out.
The pic on my last post is 1/4″ line. I had to do a repair on the line in my ’69 GMC truck. Here’s a shot of the flare on the existing line on the truck:
I don’t know who makes a quality flaring bar these days. I got mine on ebay.
Rick
Get some new hard line and practice doing double flares. If you are into DIY and improving your skills, and educating yourself on auto repair then at some point you will want to learn this skill.
I know a lot of people are going to the (fairly expensive) Eastwood tools to make their double flares and that’s OK if you can afford them. Though using them on a vehicle is relatively difficult compared to an old school flaring bar setup. I tried some of the Chinese flaring tools and they are absolutely worthless.
If you want to do flares correctly, on the cheap, get yourself an old American made flaring tool. Mine is an Imperial Brass double flaring tool. Similar to this:
You MUST deburr the ID of the tube with a carefully selected drill bit, and then chamfer the OD with a file. You can find videos on YouTube detailing a correct double flare. It is not hard to learn.
Here’s one of mine using my eBay $45 Imperial Brass flaring tool:
Also note that you can do a bubble flare for Asian vehicle brake lines using this same tool. You just flip the bar over for the second stage of the flare. And the metric brake line used on Asian passengers cars is effectivelythe same size as 3/16″. It works great.
Rick
As with most Japanese engine head bolts they are not torque to yield and therefore can be reused pending inspection. I have never replaced Honda or Subaru head bolts and have yet to have a single repeat failure in almost 20 years.
Rick