Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
How well was the system flushed before installing the new pump? Sudden loss of steering when turning into a parking lot, etc (full lock turn) can be a sign that something has jammed the bypass relief valve in the pump body open. This valve opens to prevent too much pressure in the system such as when you have the wheel hard against its right or left limit. This just dumps the excess fluid volume/pressure back into the inlet of the pump. If, after turning the wheel back from its limit, this valve then fails to close the pump builds no pressure. Often if a pump starts to disintegrate the bits and pieces can jam this valve in the open position. Therefore it is imperative that all contaminants be flushed.
Also aftermarket pumps generally suck for Japanese vehicles. I’ve seen more than one that didn’t work out of the box. We have taken to only using OEM new pumps from the dealer. More expensive but they work every time and they last – usually it’s just once in the life of the car that they need replaced.
Rick
No the stiffer trans mount cannot cause slipping.
What brand of clutch was used? We use exclusively Exedy (OEM) or Competition Clutch (for high performance).
Sounds like you need to check into the work this shop did and the clutch they used. Slippage on a brand new clutch sounds like poor quality parts or seriously improper installation.
The other possibility is a drive axle that’s not fully seated in the rear differential. This will cause a “clutch slipping” type of feeling but it’s not. It’s the center viscous coupler slipping.
Rick
It’s hard to say what exactly happened since you aren’t sure but start by backing off all your rockers so you don’t strike a valve. Then line up everything. Counter balance shafts too. If it’s due for a timing belt then it’s probably due for a valve adjust anyway. If it’s hydraulic just unbolt the rocker assembly or camshaft instead. Unload the valves till you have things back in alignment.
Rick
Hey Eric –
I have this ’89 Sterling 827 SL. It is mechanically an Acura Legend (4 door).
The car has sat in a covered car port since 1998. It is in pristine condition other than the fuel system. The tank is going to need replaced or cleaned. Being as you are very familiar with these cars I was hoping you could tell me if a Legend tank would fit? According to the documentation I’ve found the Sterling has a 1 gallon smaller tank, but maybe that’s a documentation error.
Also the fuel pump assembly is pretty sad. Here’s some pics of it – can you tell if this would be the same as a Legend?
Hit me up if you are interested in the car. It has less than 18,000 original miles. Absolutely flawless and here in Oregon – zero rust.
Here’s some pics:
Rick
Many things could cause that – sticky idle control comes to mind. They can get gunked up inside and perform poorly when the gunk is cold and viscous. As they warm their function improves. Can’t hurt to clean it.
Rick
You can get a simple Digital Volt/Ohm Meter (DVOM) from any discount tool store. Harbor Freight has them for $9.99. Then you just need a wiring diagram and some stick pins (the T shaped ones) to back probe the sensor harness. Without checking some voltages it’s anybody’s guess as to what might be going on. You’ll have to do some diagnostic testing. I’m doubtful that you can buy those MAF’s anymore (maybe check on Rockauto) but I’m sure they are expensive if you can. It may very well be the problem but don’t “troubleshoot with Visa”. Know a part is bad with 99% probability before you buy it. The fact that the fuel pump only runs if the MAF is wide open would seem to indicate the fuel pump circuit is being triggered by a voltage reading from the MAF and the ECU in turn powering up the fuel pump relay. That also points to a possible voltage reading problem with the MAF signal but I’m only speculating at this point. Early fuel injection systems employed a variety of mechanisms to detect engine cranking/running to trigger the pump and that’s probably one of them as most of those vane MAF systems didn’t control ignition from what I recall.
Rick
You might clean the inside of the engine block and head a bit, but what you won’t do is anything useful to the carbon buildup in the oil control ring expander or the piston skirt drain back holes which are the source of oil consumption, by and large. We remove pistons and run them in a 170 degree detergent parts washer for sometimes several hours and then still have to scrape and rod out holes with drill bits. 15 minutes isn’t even long enough to raise that concoction’s temp to a useful level not to mention you just can’t get any real amount of that stuff into the rings to clean them in that time, and at those engine speeds.
You are much more likely to clog up something. Initially that stuff will be thick and the oil filter bypass will be allowing it right past the filter element. On really dirty engines it may even clog and restrict the filter causing bypass and sending all that crap downstream to wreak havoc on oil pressure controlled valve timing controls, turbocharger oil feed ports, etc, etc.
You are much better off letting that sleeping dog alone. You are as likely to do further damage as you are to end up with a better running engine. In fact I would say that it is near impossible for that mess of fluids to do anything useful long term.
1 quart of ATF or Rislone can help sticky lifters. Also use Amsoil engine flush for such things. Beyond that – oil goes in the engine. Quality, synthetic, oil. Nothing else is needed or recommended.
Rick
Measure output voltage of the MAF. Typical vane type MAF is about 1.2 to 4.9 volts. Higher = more air. Idle voltage is typically 1 to 1.5v.
If you have access to a scope it would be useful to graph the voltage as you open the vane manually (KOEO) to look for dropouts in the signal. Engines that spend lots of time idling can develop dead spots in the potentiometer operated by the vane.
Rick
If it’s clean water then it’s almost certainly your AC evaporator drain. This is normal. The AC does also run with the defrost system to help dry the air.
Check all your fluids – if nothing is low, drive on.
Rick
That upstream sensor sounds like an air fuel ratio sensor rather than an O2 sensor. They are (usually) 0-5 volt and will not cycle between lean and rich like narrow band sensors will do.
Lambda (14.7:1) on a typical wideband air fuel ration sensor is 3.3v with higher readings indicating leaner. So 3.27 is right where is should be for a stoich idle.
It sound like your sensors are ok. You probably just need a new converter. It’s not uncommon at all.
Rick
Balancer shafts will often come into contact with other things inside the engine if they are out of time. Could be that the balance shaft counter-weight is jammed against the crankshaft or camshaft. You would have to pull up some internal diagrams and also an assembly procedure for installing camshafts and crankshaft would probably be useful as it may detail installation order, and/or how to rotate them (or how not to) to get things lined up.
Rick
You would have to open it up and see what is damaged to generate a parts list. Most transmission rebuilds will come as a kit will all bearings, syncros, and seals. If you are going to the trouble replace it all.
Rick
A Weber DGV kit is about $300- $400. And all the problems go away…..
Trust me on this. You don’t want to spend your valuable time on that factory carb setup. Even if you get it “fixed” it won’t be half as fun as a progressive Weber.
I do this for a living. Actually for four livings – my employees rely on my decisions being the best for our customers. I speak from experience – just get the Weber kit and move on to better things in your life than tinkering with 80’s Japanese emissions carbs. It’s painful to watch you waste your time.
Rick
That’s certifiably insane. Conventional will turn basically to tar after that many miles and heat cycling.
I would pull the valve cover and inspect. I bet it’s a sludge factory in there.
Those maintenance intervals are designed to reduce projected “ownership costs” but they don’t care if you need a new engine shortly after the warranty runs out.
Rick