Forum Replies Created
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Usually the starter solenoid and often the alternator voltage regulator will pop smoke when the battery is connected reverse.
I would swap the starter and then manually trigger it with 12v to the solenoid spade terminal. Hold the key in the start position while you do this if you can to send the correct start signal to the ECU.
This will tell you if it *can* start and isolate your problems to the crank circuit and let you test alternator output, etc. Most of the anti-theft systems will let you crank it but you won’t get spark, etc.
Rick
Something let go in the rear diff. It may have some kind of limited slip device that is transmitting a small amount of power to get it up to 10 MPH but something has sheared away in there and it’s no longer functional. Probably sheared an axle shaft or stripped/cracked a spider gear spline, etc. The brake issue was probably pre-existing. Drum brakes being out of adjustment isn’t uncommon and may go unnoticed till you start looking for a problem. A sheared axle may still spin the wheel if there is no load (on jack stands) but may not be able to drive the vehicle at all.
Rick
Properly installed, a seal sleeve will outlast the engine. Get a quality one that comes with the installer tool, and use 609 loctite on the ID of the sleeve to retain and seal it. Remove the lip on the sleeve by peeling it back so it doesn’t stretch the sleeve and cause a distortion.
I’ve installed many speedi-sleves over the years with no problems at all. Also get a viton (brown) rear main seal as they won’t harden with age like the Buna-N ones.
Rick
This is common across all electric sending unit oil pressure gauges in 80’s cars. The sending units and gauges were crap. This is why manufacturers went away from gauges and went to idiot lights – because consumers are too sensitive about the reading of the gauges and don’t know how to interpret what they are seeing anyway. Also since engines are no longer “repaired” at the dealer level should a low oil pressure condition cause a failure there’s just no point in dealing with the customer service side of gauge reading complaints. When the engine grenades it’s just going to get replaced wholesale anyway. Remember parts are cheap – labor is expensive.
Rick
Sometimes the seals swell with age. Also you may need to relieve the pressure behind the piston so make sure the caliper is off the car and the bleeder screw removed.
If that doesn’t work order a rebuild kit from the DEALER. Aftermarket caliper seals are usually a massive headache and the kits are probably cheap from Nissan.
Rick
If it’s not forming drips and you don’t smell it burning off the exhaust pipes then don’t worry about it. Check your fluids regularly and be aware that these models ALWAYS leak oil from the head gaskets so be prepared for that eventuality.
Rick
Fuel pumps don’t die while turning.
Check the solder joints on the main relay or better yet just remelt the solder joints. Eric has a video on these. Look it up.
If that’s not the cause it may be the distributor going south. The distributor is the second most likely cause of failure on a Honda. If it stays dead or you can idle it till it dies try to check for spark. Chances are if it has no spark then the distributor is the cause.
Rick
2000
Engine Assembly
Honda Civic 1.6,AT 50,470 A PG2112 $700 All Japanese USA-NV(Las-Vegas) E-mail 1-702-644-2027$700 in your area. 50k miles.
If that doesn’t suit just look for more on http://www.car-part.com
Rick
Yes we run 15w50 Amsoil Dominator race oil in all of our larger oil clearance race engines.Most manufacturers of high performance engines do similar. Ford calls out 5w50 on the new Focus RS turbo. BMW runs some really heavy oil on the newer M series engines. 60 weight I think.
It will help. Instead of Lucus though – find a Justice Brothers distributor and get the thick motor honey they sell. It’s an upgrade over the Lucus product.
Get an oil pan heater and plug it in before you start it. Also let it idle for 15 to 20 minutes before you drive it. We do this with all built engines. Letting them normalize before putting them under a load is imperative. Also get an Amsoil oil filter for it. If it’s making metal you will want the better micron rating and the cold flow ability to avoid hitting filter bypass during startup. Closer you can get to full flow the better. Especially with thick oil.
Rick
Easy to check. Set the parking brake and stand on the brake pedal with all your weight as you put it in reverse and have someone watch under the van as you drop it into reverse to see if the driveshaft spins. If it does then listen to the rear diff – if it’s making horrible noises then its chowdered.
Late 90’s/Early 00’s Chevy rear diff failure…. wouldn’t doubt it. The gear oil will probably come out with a handful of teeth in it.
Rick
Are you saying there was oil under the slave cylinder on top of the transmission bell-housing?
Or are you saying there was oil on the bottom of the transmission under the car?
External oil leakage is never “normal”. Though one could argue it’s so common for the head gaskets on that model to seep oil that it’s fairly unusual to see one that’s dry.
Rick
I just remembered something – if the hose from the master to the slave is wet or damp looking it needs to be replaced. We replace a LOT of them from that era.
0.78″ seems much too little. I am still convinced you have a hydraulic issue. This crops up often right after the clutch is replaced. Dragging is the fork not being pushed far enough. To confirm, use a prybar to actuate the fork. If you can now shift without dragging and the fork isn’t twisting, or creaking, etc then the clutch and fork are not the problem.
Rick
You should not have to adjust the pedal rod to achieve proper disengagement.
If the clutch is dragging then one of three things is occurring – either the hydraulic system is not pushing the fork far enough, the fork is flexing and about to fail (seen this quite a few times) – they fracture due to wear at the pivot ball and the ball will blow through the pivot or the fracture will cause one of the legs to break away and the fork to twist sideways, or the disc can start coming apart and bits of the spring pack can jam between the flywheel and pressure plate causing dragging – usually this occurs with “spring” packs that are made using elastomer (rubber) springs.
Adjusting the rod will cause the hydraulics to push the fork farther but since the hydraulics are self adjusting they will return to their previous happy adjustment place and the dragging will return. Make sure the slave rod is in contact with the fork AND the piston inside the slave cylinder bore BEFORE you put any pressure on the pedal. If it’s not then the system has to take up all that slack before it moves the fork.
Usually on Subaru’s this is a bad slave cylinder or a fork that’s going out. The elastomer thing I have not seen happen on a Subaru. Last one was a 2006? Scion Tc.
Pumping fluid into the slave is not an effective way to bleed these systems. You MUST remove the slave from it’s mounting and clamp the slave fully compressed with a C clamp, etc. Otherwise air will be trapped above the level of the bleeder. But even if it’s bled correctly, if the slave is bad then it will go back to dragging again in short order.
Rick
Ebay item number – 161082494713
Just have to do a bit of plumbing. Bypass the old valve and use a couple of universal ones.
Rick
Ebay. You can find one from a state without the sun or from a wrecked car that was garaged. Also try http://www.car-part.com
If you search and don’t find the wheel listed try searching for something else in the interior (like seats) if you find one with the right color call them and ask if they have the matching wheel.
You just have to look hard. You will find one.
Rick