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I just replaced the boots on a 98 about 9 months ago (v-6). The boots began leaking and I used the OEM boot kits within a few weeks of the leak (4 boots total). I bought them over the counter at the dealer for $30 ea. The car still had the factory axles so the fit was exact. The OEM kits come with EVERYTHING except the tools. You get new snap rings, axle nut and of course the grease, boots and bands. (I did have to buy the cotter pin for the ball joint stud). Each kit has the parts so I have extra axle nuts now. I was advised not to change the snap ring that holds the axle into the trans so I left the existing ones. The outer bands require the tool that winds the band tight and folds the end over. The inner band works like a steel zip tie (there is a special tool to tighten that also). If you have been driving around for a while with broken boots, or you hear clicking when the steering is turned full left or right, your joints may already be bad. You should replace. My joints did not see rain or much driving before I got to them. The bearings were still tight so I replaced the boots. You only need to dis-assemble the inner joint to re-boot the axle. I just wiped the old grease out thoroughly (no solvent) and installed the new pieces and grease. I decided against aftermarket due to others that had vibration issues and short lifespan. I need the car to stay fixed and not worry about axles next year. I was refered to Raxles (raxles.com) for quality aftermarket axles if i did not re-boot. Gen3
Diesel & Dreamer both have excellent advice. As far as the tranny flush Honda does not recommend it. Here is one of many suggestions relating to honda ATF. http://accuratecars.com/blog/2008/12/11/the-proper-method-for-flushing-honda-and-acura-automatic-transmissions/ We have a 98 V6 Accord approaching 200,000 mi. The oil has rarely gone over 5000 mi and the ATF was drained /filled at approx 20,000 mi intervals using ONLY Honda ATF. The steering fluid is also replaced at approx 40,000 intevals by draining / refill, run for a few minutes and repeating. Brake fluid is completely flushed every 2 years, Coolant change at 50,000 mi. Aside from timing belt with water pump at 105,000, new radiator, alternator and recent CV axle boots (OE axles still good) The only other parts needed were brakes, belts, light bulbs. The valves were adjusted at about 100,000 miles also. Almost all parts used are OEM honda. All filters and fluids are also honda except for brake fluid (standard dot 3). The car does not use oil between changes, and no leaks to speak of. Original trans with no work ever done to it, still has original calipers, master cylinder and ABS brake parts, all original power steering parts. Keep the fluids to the proper level, use the correct fluids and keep everything clean. If anything sounds, feels or smells out of place find out what it is before it becomes expensive or catastrophic. You will find the low mileage cars are hard on batteries. That is normal. Do not let a weak battery charge from the alternator. Replace it or charge it with a plug in charger. Have the battery and charging system checked promptly. Weak batteries ruin alternators. I have found the OEM Honda parts work the best. Wiper blades and brake pads last much longer than aftermarket parts and do not squeel and make a mess. For the spark plugs, I just changed the factory original ones out last year!! They do need to be taken out and inspected, mainly to put a dab of anti sieze on the threads at about 30-40,000 miles. This protects the aluminum threads in the cylinder head. The platinum plugs used in most hondas last a long time. An experienced eye is the best to determine when. DO NOT use anything except OEM honda ATF, power steering fluid and coolant. You may hear complaints of the price of the fluids but never complaints about the result of using them. Not so with aftermarket “compatible” fluids. Eric (ETCG) will attest to this also. I do not allow quick lubes to touch my vehicles. There are too many horror stories and saving $10 to result in my engine running out of oil, having a stripped drain plug or being over filled with the wrong fluid does not make sense to me. I either learn how to do it correctly myself or someone with OEM training and at least 10 years of experience works on the vehicle. It is essential to find an independent shop with low employee turn over. I am not looking for free donuts, coffee and internet access. I want an experienced conscientious person to take care of one of the most expensive things I own that my family and friends ride in. This era Accord is a very reliable car and the V6 engine is very smooth. It will give you many more years of service with some TLC. Good luck !!!! Post back with any additional questions Gen-3
It sounds like the brake transmission shift interlock is going bad. You can do an internet search on chevrolet truck BTSI. It is shown in the lower photo of the steering column this link http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/3goms-remove-btsi-solenoid-1007-silverado-2500.html It is an electric solenoid that energizes when you step on the brake pedal. It is why you need to step on the brake to shift from reverse to drive and shift out of park. The solenoid moves the rod that is sticking out of it. The rod moves and releases the column shifter so it can move from park to reverse or drive. It may be activated thru the brake lamp switch (near the brake pedal and above the steering column) -can’t remember if it has its own separate switch. Check the brake switch with an electrical meter to see if it works properly. If the Switch is OK, the solenoid is probably on it last leg. Repair it before it leaves you stranded in Park. (or by-pass it) I had this problem on my truck. Just another one of the electrical annoyances GM builds into their products. Gen3
Jeremy, I saw your your Youtube tool box video. You have a nice set up there. I am going to steal your idea and arrange my sockets into different drawers by drive size. I have a mess going on right now. Anyway, I see you work on mowers. I worked a few summers repairing lawn equipment during college. It has paid off in more ways than you would think. How lawn mowers helped me in college- http://students.sae.org/competitions/bajasae/about.htm Where can I get the tool that removes the recoil starter clutch on a briggs motor? You know, the thing that has the ball bearings inside that is threaded on the crank over the flywheel. I have needed one of these several times in the past and ended up rigging some way of getting the clutch off. I am looking for the big socket-like thing (used with an impact gun to get the clutch off). Gen3
Im not an auto tech and dont have experience with brake lathes, but could the rotor be loose on the hub? (does this sound like a holiday inn TV commercial?) Anyway if you are chasing it, and you cant get the rotor to “zero” to the cutting tips it sounds like the rotor is rocking (not sitting flat on the hub) or the arbor (or whatever you call the thing that holds the cutting tips) is moving relative to the rotor. Maybe the hub has a bad bearing? I assume there is a dial indicator mounted on the brake lathe and the indicator tip is touching the rotor? I saw one of these types of machines set up before. I would guess it was “donated” to the college. It looked like a major PITA to set up. It was used for the infamous “captive rotors” seen in some of Eric’s videos.
Pete, Since you are going to have the intake off, be sure to replace the pot-metal heater fitting that connects the heater hose to the manifold. I am not sure if your truck has this. From the mid 90s and later the trucks had this fitting. It is notorious for breaking off in the manifold or having the hose leak at the plastic retaining clip. It is such a problem, there are special tools to remove it from the manifold (once it breaks off) and almost every parts store stocks these fittings (see link). If you can find a hose fitting that matches the hose barb to the pipe thread going into the manifold that is a permanent solution. (brass would be best, but you may only find the correct configuration in steel) Throw out the factory hose with the special end and replace it with regular heater hose you buy by the foot. As described by the other replies, corrosion is a big problem in the GMs with Death-cool antifreeze. You may find the mating surface of the cylinder head to intake has been etched by rancid coolant (thank you GM). Good for you and bad for others, it sounds like you have plenty of company on this one. Just post back here and there will be plenty of help. Gen 3
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/3523-07017088.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_term=1997+Chevrolet+Malibu+Heater+Hose+Connector+Dorman+97+Chevrolet+Heater+Hose+Connector&utm_content=MC&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+BaseWow, I agree with Yarddog. Those are pretty long. I have a set of the Craftsman professionals. They are longer than the original Craftsman combo wrenches, but not as longs as the Genius ones. The Craftsman professionals will fit into most cramped engines and work good underneath a car. The really long ones like the Genius sometimes are too long to be useful. The thing I like the best about the pro models is they are smooth and easy to wipe clean, Gen3
Along the lines of electrical trouble shooting. I have wired a push to reset circuit breaker to use in place of a fuse while doing electrical work (see link below). I also use it when testing used electrical items (car amplifiers for example). I wired the terminals of the circuit breaker to a short length of 16 ga wire and soldered insulated alligator clips to the end. Be sure to use inslulated connectors to connect the wire to the circuit breaker. A short at that point would be the same as a piece of wire in place of your fuse! The idea is that you push the button back in if the short occurs instead of replacing the fuse each time. Since most automotive fuses are 15 or 20 amp, I used a 15 amp breaker. Use a 5 or 7 amp version for the 10 amp fuses. If your car has the old glass type fuses, the alligator clips will clip to the fuse tabs in the fusebox. For the new plastic blade type fuses I break the plastic off the metal fuse blades and insert blades into the fuse box. The alligator clips can connect to the metal blades. –Gen3
http://www.iboats.com/SeaDog-Thermal-AC-DC-Circuit-Breakers/dm/cart_id.563180690–session_id.511180952–view_id.39683
My favorite is my air compressor. It powers my air tools, cleans up the garage, inflates tires, blows out carburetors, etc, etc, etc. It really makes working in the garage easier. Gen3
edkrane, I remember seeing a post online detailing the timing belt change. Someone used the wrench from a angle grinder in the holes you speak of to hold the pulley. The grinder wrench is the kind that has two pegs sticking out of the handle, like this- http://www.ereplacementparts.com/wrench-p-67460.html I am not recommending this method, just describing what I read. If you damage anything or anyone I am not responsible. Post back with your outcome. –Gen3
HDWewson, Check to be sure the caliper pins were re-installed correctly. There is an upper one and a lower one. I believe the lower one has the flats along its length. The pins need to be removed and the grease wiped off to notice the flats. The -08 and some -09 accords had the pins swapped (upper vs lower) and there was a TSB issued to correct this along with a revised pad material and spring. The vehicles had pad wear problems. The other thing that comes to mind is that the pin (little bump) that is on the back of the inboard pad’s backing plate. may not be seated in the groove of the piston. The piston has a cross indentation in the face that allows it to be turned so it retracts back into the caliper. The piston extends out as the pad wears so the parking brake maintains adjustment. You can see the cross in Eric’s video showing his special tool that retracts the piston. I think it would be difficult to re-install the caliper if the bump were not seated the the piston groove. The pad may also be sitting at an angle if the bump is not seated correctly. That may also cause the “dragging”. How long are your rear pads lasting? I had a 6th gen accord and the rear pads lasted over 80k miles. –Gen3
I would have someone sit inside and step on the brake. Also do not jack up the car. leave it on the ground with the tire on. Both of these should make the car more stable and allow you to exert the maxinum force to turning the nut. After you break the nut loose (approx 1 turn or so) you can jack the car back up and put it on safety stands and continue. Hope this helps. Post back and let everyone know how it turns out. –Gen3
Raceking, Sorry to tell you, but my answer is: It depends. I would say you need to look at how the alarm is currently installed. If it is a nice installation (professional and neat) you may be better off leaving it alone. I am assuming you can turn it off so it doesn’t work at all. If it has an ignition kill or starter interrupt and it is a terrible install, it may be wise to remove it. If you do not know how the alarm works and it does have a ignition kill or starter interrupt, it would be a good idea to have a pro remove it so the car will be reliable after the work is done. Much of what needs to be done depends if you can recognize what is part of the aftermarket alarm and what belongs in the car as OEM equipment. If you can determine the difference, the next problem is how do I put the wiring back to the original configuration. I used to work in the industry and i have seen thousands of dollars of electrical damage done by inexperienced people. See “Dont Make My Life More Difficult” video on the ETCG-1 site. Imagine what was done to that car, being done to your car’s electrical system. You get the idea? The problem with electrical is you usually only get one chance to get it right. If you do it wrong, something will usually “fry”. (FRY is the industry standard term for you burned something up). Replacing the damaged part is usually much easier than determining what part burned up. Hopefully is wont be an entire wiring harness. Again, sorry for my answer. –Gen3
Dreamer, A friend has this one http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_10155_12602_00916475000P?vName=Power+Tools+%26+Equipment&cName=Equipment&sName=Compressors+%26+Air+Tools&prdNo=4&blockNo=4&blockType=L4 He is running it on 120v. He says it is VERY quiet. I have never heard it running but i take his word for it, he is pretty honest. Since the one you are considering is the stand up version of his model, I would think it would be similar. He hasn’t complained about running out of air. I have a similar one but it is a 15 year old craftsman 15 gallon. The 15 gal. can run an impact gun, air rachet etc. but not continuously. It has trouble with a die grinder, sand blaster etc. For working around the garage and working on my own cars, it is adequate. If you are considering auto body work or painting, you will want to look at a 60 or 80 gallon (possibly 2 stage) to run the sanders and paint guns properly. The key is CFM or SCFM. Check the specs on the air tools you will use and size the compressor accordingly. I would recommend staying with one of the oil lubricated belt drive models with a cast iron cylinder or aluminum cylinder with cast iron sleeve. They are quieter and last much longer than the “oil free” and/or “direct-drive” models. If you use a compressor on 120v you will likely need a 20 amp circuit. The circuit should be pretty much dedicated for the compressor. If you have a shop vac or halogen work lights on the same circuit the breaker will trip. Change the compressor oil when needed and use air tool oil as recommended and things will run for a long time. –Gen3