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[quote=”jonsey1886″ post=175123]Don’t forget to change the fuel filter, I personally use one from Wix also a 3x drain & refill on the transmission using HONDA ATF/MTF….not generic import fluid.[/quote]
I took your advice and replaced the fuel filter, jonsey1886. It was a good thing I did because when I poured the gas out of the old one, it came out quite brown! I’m not sure what you mean by a “3x” drain? I’m assuming one would also change the trans filter as well??
[quote=”creativepotato” post=175018]An aftermarket cap and rotor will be fine on a Honda. The Iridium IXs are useless on that vehicle because they’re aimed for performance, not longevity and ideal resistance. Don’t forget the trans/diff oil and belts check during the tune-up. Good luck with the rotor screw. Vice grip on the head sounds like a good idea instead of hammering it :lol:[/quote]
Thanks for your advice, Creativepotato! I ended up using the philips head impact bit on an 8mm socket and was able to put enough pressure and torque on the screw to break it free without damaging it. I did go with the cheaper NGK Vpower spark plugs and the vehicle seems to run well with them. Good point about the trans oil. The vehicle has logged 350 000 km already and would probably appreciate a filter and oil change.
Whew! Good thing I waited for a reply before getting back to working on the rotor. Thanks, guys for taking the time to post your advice. Appreciate it!!
Thanks for sharing your story. Hats off for being so persistent!! I’m about to do battle with the same “damb” phillips screw. I’m glad I came across your post because I didn’t think of using a phillips head socket on a ratchet to get the thing off. I’ll give it a try to see if I can get it off without stripping. Thanks again.
Thanks for the advice! I got to work removing the distributor rotor and found that the screw is on there tight. I don’t want to strip the screw. (I can’t understand why the Honda engineers decided to use a phillips head rather than a robertson head.) I have a KD impact driver that I could use to hopefully loosen the screw but I’m not sure if the banging that’ll go on will damage the distributor or shaft. Is using the impact and hammer a good idea or is there a better way to tackle the tight screw?? Thanks.
Hi Eric. Just came across your post from two years ago about not needing to replace the original Honda ignition wires because they’ll last almost forever. Are the ignition wires the spark plug wires??
The discolouration on the dip stick did have a varnished look to it. I did remove the oil cap (with a lot of effort!) and took a peek. The area inside looked quite dark and also had that varnished look. I’ve checked this vehicle off my list. The great thing is that I learned something new again from you guys!! Thanks a bunch!!
College Man, I thought I’d update you on the EEC code problem that I was trying to figure out. I did replace the EPS before heading down to the States. I’ve had no error codes since I left. Problem solved! Thanks for guiding me through the fix.
A correction on that ohms reading. I took it again just to make sure my info was correct. the EGR position sensor’s resistance went from just below 4 to just above zero using the R x 1K scale. Hope this makes more sense.
Thought I’d give you an update of the issue that you responded to, College Man. I followed the instructions from the site you gave me, however, I skipped the test on the DPFE sensor as I’m almost sure I don’t have on on this 1989 model. So the operation of the EGR itself is fine and it holds a vacuum eliminating the presence of leaks. The EGR solenoid is getting vacuum to it and it as well as a ref. voltage. The road test also passed for the solenoid. I pulled off the EGR valve Position sensor and checked its operation by measuring the ohms with an analogue meter while depressing its shaft. The needle decreased smoothly, however, I was surprised of the small range it had ( approx. 45 ohms down to about 30 ohms.). After all my tests, I cleared the codes and took the vehicle for another test drive. The engine light didn’t turn on during the drive but when I checked for codes, I got a code 31 this time ( EVP signal is/was out of range , EVP signal is/was low, PFE signal is/was low ). I’m wondering if the EGR sensor’s range is the issue here. I tried finding the expected range of the sensor online but had no luck. Would you happen to know where I might find this info? I’m guessing the info is in the service manual for this year and make but unfortunately, I don’t have one.
I took a video of the sound but can’t seem to load it on. It recorded as a Quick Time Movie (about 440 000 KB). Would this be too large to upload or do I need to change the format?
I checked the coolant level as you suggested and it was quite low. We filled the rad with coolant then tested for heat. Problem solved! Note to self: Start with the simple things first, then move on to the more difficult possibilities. Thanks Jotmon1 for the great advice!
I bought a coil spring compressor from Princess Auto years ago but haven’t built up the courage to use it. I’ve been checking Eric’s videos regarding strut replacement as I’ve got to deal with the struts on my 2001 Windstar. Eric suggests the Monroe Quickstruts which come completely packaged with the coil. The cost would be a little more than just replacing the strut but would be safer. Here’s the link if you want to check it out. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/promotional-videos/1216-the-monroe-quickstrut-advantage