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I’m quite sure the bushings are in need of repair. The stabilizer bar has a fair bit of play. I am able to move the bar back and forth which I don’t think it should be doing. The vehicle “clunks” any time you hit a rut or unevenness on the road. I changed the stabilizer links already and the clunking didn’t go away so I’m quite sure the bushings are the culprit.
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond to my post.I can’t say which would be the best impact as I’ve only had one. Mine is an Ingersoll Rand 2100G 1/2″ impact that has been working great for me. I decided to invest in a good quality impact and I know that its a reputable brand. I have a universal attachment (universal joint??) that I fit on the gun to help reach awkward angles. Good luck with your purchase. You’ll wonder how you got along without one!
Thanks, relative4, for your response. The information and link are greatly appreciated. I’ll pass this on to my son. Hopefully, it will help him find the problem. Thanks again.
I have the opposite problem MDK22 has regarding gloves as I have small hands. I use my roofing gloves when I work on my vehicles. I can get them in size small, they fit snug and provide me with good tactile feel. They are rubberized on the palm and are a lot cheaper compared to the automotive gloves.
I think Harvard Freight was advertising it for about $80.00 US. Add shipping and exchange to Can dollars and it would probably be over $100.00. Storage wouldn’t be a problem. Good point about the wheel weights. I’d have to purchase a selection of those along with the tool. Might not be worth it in the end if you can’t get a good balanced tire. Thanks for the input, God Bless.
What is your opinion regarding the use of battery blankets. I always thought they were great for the frigid weather here in Canada, but a guy from a battery store didn’t recommend their use.
P.S. Your site has helped me become more knowledgeable and confident backyard mechanic. Thanks, and have a restful vacation with your family![quote=”GeneralDisorder” post=178934]I use simple green in a small ultrasonic cleaning tank. Cycle the injectors with a 9v battery. You can blow through them with some hose and your mouth or an air supply regulated down to 30 psi. Make sure to blow through them in both directions.
Rick[/quote]
Is “simple green” similar to carb cleaner? I’ve never heard of an ultrasonic cleaning tank. Is it something you’d find in an automotive shop?I went down to the local tire shop to buy a stem and they gave me one free. The valve stem fits quite well on the end of the injector. My JB Weld is still drying, so I’ll be cleaning them tomorrow. I haven’t found the spec for the voltage the injectors run on, so perhaps I’ll go with a 9Volt battery just to be safe. Thanks to all for their two cents worth. I feel confident, now, going ahead and using the carb cleaner.
OK, so then if power leaves the battery from the negative post, then it must follow the chassis of the vehicle seeking a way back to the pos. terminal of the battery. That means that the whole chassis is energized so to speak with electrons and enter, say the blower motor, through its casing then back to the pos post via insulated wires. (Seems to me like a less efficient way for electrons to travel to the load than the other way around.) Thanks, for the quick lesson. It was a great revelation for me. Makes you really appreciate what’s going on under that hood.
I checked the block and it is aluminum. The good news is that when I checked it with a straight edge it came out flat except for one small area. I’m hoping it won’t cause a problem. As far as the intake manifold, I used a gasket removing spray and plastic scraper to get most of the debris off then soaked it in brake cleaner and then went over it with a green scotch-brite as per your suggestions. I’m quite happy with the results. Thanks again for your advice.
I’ve been hunting for the video you said Eric made demonstrating how to clean up aluminum with the disc with plastic fingers but haven’t come across it yet. Would you happen to know what the video might be called?Thanks for your advice, Peshewa. That’s a hard lesson to learn. Just when you think you know what your doing, eh? I wish I had thought of posting before getting to work on the cleaning. I’ll find a straight ruler today and assess the damage. The work I’ve done thus far was actually on the surface of the motor making things a little more painful. If I find the surface of the engine side isn’t completely flat, what am I looking at, a new block?? I’m guessing that would be a pretty penny to have resurfaced. Wondering if spraying the surface with a product like Hitek gasket sealant would fill in any discrepancies??
I’ll hunt down the ETCG video you referred to to learn a bit more about cleaning aluminum surfaces. I do have a small parts washer but I might try your idea of using a garbage bag to soak the intake manifold.
I tend to rely on the public library to get my torque specs from the Mitchel manuals as well as the other automotive tec manuals that they house there. If you live in Canada and have a Partsource in the area, you can usually access their “ShopKey” program in their store. I have also gotten torque specs by simply phoning them. Good luck with your search.
Thanks for the explanation of the 3X drain, CreativePotato. Do you not change the trans filter as well?? Wondering, too, what the danger is in getting a low pressure flush from a dealership or garage, not that I’d spend the money on this. I like tackling things myself. Thanks.
Used your suggestion to first tighten the bolt a bit before turning it off. Great technique! All the bolts came off nicely. Question about cleaning the thread holes with a thread chaser. I have a tap and die set and have used my taps in the past to clean out thread holes, but now that you mentioned a thread chaser, I’m thinking that maybe using a tap isn’t the smartest thing. I spent some time hunting the internet for an appropriate “thread chaser” tool that you mentioned in your last post but found non that meant for thread holes. Some of my bolts are 4 inches long, so I would need a long enough thread chaser to clean the threads in these deep holes. I did come across an article on the internet that explained how to make a home made thread chaser from a similar bolt that fit the thread hole. This seems like the best bet for me, but I was just wondering what you use for “thread chasers”, whether it is a commercial kit or something you’ve made yourself??
P.S. I decided to leave the timing cover alone as there was no coolant in my oil pan. The timing cover job just looked like too much work for the little amount of wetness coming from its seem.