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The answer to both of these questions is now yes.
I still have a little more to go…
I work tonight, so, the head is in a box, all bolts, and I get to probably continue tomorrow.
I think that once I smooth the head hole, the ARP stud can go in.. I must verify it will slide smoothly.
[quote=”JTF” post=150935]After working at dealers for many years and seeing what customers went through for their repairs and you just buying a car from them and getting treated like that …you deserved more than an apology.
I think your first video was very good…you said what was on your mind… you have that right being a customer and especially after buying a $27000 vehicle.[/quote]
I tend to agree. I work in retail, and I go through a lot of people coming in with full intent to scam. There is no “one size fits all” solution, but I was with ya even on the first video.
I know you said you peaced it up, but I’m not sure I would ever go to that dealer again.
It’s like a local Advance Auto Parts here in Jersey City. Not sure how they treat people, but it isn’t good.. Just about all Advance Auto Parts, actually..
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Local Batmobile.
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MMO is good for this as well
[quote=”ToyotaKarl” post=149768]I go to several pawn shops in town and noticed many of them have signs on the front door that say “we don’t buy car audio”…. when I asked the manager why I was simply told “it’s cause they are all stolen”.
I have had two car break Ins in my life… both times my stereo was gone… i was fit to be tied….
Ironically I had this discussion with a cop neighbor… he says he even keeps his car unlocked… he says, just don’t leave any change or anything valuable in it…. the thieves will get in anyway….
Karl[/quote]
This is so true.. Pop a window off the track, and you’re in. I got my Civic back, certain parts in tact.. Trunk lid missing.
Last I checked, hammers break windows pretty easy (even if they bounce off at the first wrong angle) but there’s your “in.” And then, if you have a noisemaker alarm, they rip out the speaker. Assuming anyone is even listening anyways.
I wonder if he is on to something. Though, professional thieves “just hit every single button” looking for that kill switch… This is how I have seen it done, including knowing some thieves that know how to defeat basically every antitheft device.
Best one I have seen is the brake pedal lock, though I have *heard of* one case of someone with mammoth strength using the leverage of it to bend pedal enough to snap it off.. though, thanks to how easy Honda is to steal, you can stop the car with the transmission, and e-brakes, and they may take it with that thing on it, and if you are lucky, get it recovered – yes, with that thing still on it, untouched. Thanks, Honda (Civic.)
Eric! i can unfortunately say that, not only has the Honda Civic I have pics of (and the thread about the engine) been stolen, but it was returned without the radio, 2 35-packs of bottled water, my camera, my briefcase with Target card info etc.. and many other things missing, (battery, distributor, etc) so now the defroster still doesn’t work!
I fear taking my Blazer to certain places.
[quote=”JTF” post=149445]I was a GM Tech for many years and yes at one time you could do a modification as your doing and it would work. But that has changed even for GM. What I would do is talk to a GM parts man and find out if the interchange can be done…they have the parts numbers that can be interchanged.
Another idea is a salvage yard….their pretty good with what will fit with what.[/quote]
I agree with his. When I needed an engine for my 1993 Blazer, I saw a LOT of engines from 1994s and 1995 – Vans. 2WD, 4WD.. The engines WILL swap, but they have 5 different levels of what needed to be changed.. They listed as A, B, C, D, and E. From Timing Chain Cover, to Oil Pans.. but they will swap.
I believe they call it the Hollander Interchange. Though I would like to know how they determine just what will work with what.
Chevrolet and GMC sometimes have weird interchanges, you wouldn’t think they do, but, sometimes, it is not always straightforward. But this isnt a Chevy/GMC issue. (I know I made effort to avoid GMC part in my case, though I may have ended up with a better engine.)
[quote=”Evil-i” post=149311]According to this page, it looks like you’re dealing with the LD9 version of the Quad 4, and it’s quite probable that the original ’96 engine was the same.[/quote]
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Sunfire
Engine 2.2 L 2200 I4
2.2 L Ecotec L61 I4
2.3 L Quad 4 I4
2.4 L LD9 I4Looks like at 2.4L You have the LD9 I4
GM is good with 3-letter engine codes. L35, LU3, LS1, LS9, LT4, etc.
Now.. for the 96 Grand Am (I had a 1992. LOVED that car. I should get another one..)
Grand Am https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pontiac_Grand_Am
1.5: Engines
1996–1998
1996–1998 Grand Am GT coupeFor 1996, the Grand Am received a mid-generation facelift. Outside, an updated front fascia, rear fascia,and side skirts gave the Grand Am a smoother, more rounded look. The interior was redesigned and featured dual airbags, easier to use audio system and HVAC controls, and softer plastics. The Quad 4 was replaced by a new ‘Twin Cam’ 2.4 L DOHC (Dual Over Head Cam) four-cylinder engine. Still based on the Quad 4, this was a re-engineered version of the previous year’s 2.3 L with SFI fuel injection. The new engine made 155 lb·ft (210 N·m) of torque at lower rpm than the older 2.3 L. The 3.1 L V6 remained optional. The 3-speed automatic was dropped for 1996, and the 4-speed automatic featured standard traction control. Daytime running lamps with automatic lighting control were newly standard on all Grand Ams. 1997 models featured standard air conditioning. The Grand Am was redesigned for 1999.
Engines used:
1992–1994: 2.3L SOHC L40 L4. 120 hp (115 in 1993 and 1994), 140 lb·ft (190 N·m) of torque.
1992–1994: 2.3L DOHC Quad 4 L4 engine: 160 hp (155 in 1993 and 1994), 155 lb·ft (210 N·m) of torque
1992–1994: 2.3L DOHC Quad 4 HO L4 engine: 180 hp (175 in 1993 and 1994), 160 lb·ft (220 N·m) of torque
1992–1993: 3.3L 3300 MPFI V6: 160 hp (120 kW), 185 lb·ft (251 N·m) of torque
1994–1998: 3.1L 3100 SFI V6: 155 hp (116 kW), 185 lb·ft (251 N·m) of torque
1995: 2.3L DOHC Quad 4 L4 engine: 150 hp (110 kW), 155 lb·ft (210 N·m) of torque
1996–1998: 2.4L DOHC Twin Cam L4 engine: 150 hp (110 kW), 155 lb·ft (210 N·m) of torque[quote]1996–1998: 2.4L DOHC Twin Cam L4 engine: 150 hp (110 kW), 155 lb·ft (210 N·m) of torque[quote]
Check it
Bayonne NJ
All over.
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BATMAN!!!! 😀
Eric… Y Tu? 🙂
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[quote=”Aznboy1993″ post=149041]Eric: First off and foremost, love your videos btw! 🙂 I did watch the series where you diagnosed the Subi’s performance issues. Took a lot out of that. Even if I shift the tranny manually, it still does it. It feels like the computer is deliberately pulling back on engine power output during the shifting process (it feels exactly like fuel cutoff when you hit redline)…maybe this is natural? I am thinking not, because even on sudden acceleration I feel the car hesitating.
Gearhead: The catalytic converter being plugged could explain all of the issues I am having. I do perceive the car struggles to accelerate if I really get on it (the engine tone also changes to this deep growl like you are bogging it down…i.e. it is struggling to breathe). How can I further diagnose this to pinpoint the cats?[/quote]
I like what this guy did. (Different car, but great technique.)
He got under the car, and loosened up the bolts downstream of the cat…. This removed the restriction, and the car ran amazing.
The common thing here is the car engine “not wanting to rev up.”
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