Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
^^° Am I reading that it can be removed and disassembled?
And on a 95 Corolla, its by the back of the engine, center or passenger side by the belts, under intake manifold, right?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Here are some more pics. The last one is the most relevant. Taken just now.
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/bd915f8a45a41db5620ad12542fae335.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/e5acd45f0c9d5a8c6d0b612726df7238.jpg[/IMG]
Ground was clean before I parked it.
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160408/5d46762d361ff0c3b7560fedd9598f46.jpg[/IMG]
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160407/31d636d3ee5309439b1f6ab28f7a5d53.jpg[/IMG]
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[quote=”SLOjohnny” post=163312]I believe that a special cam shaft alignment tool is needed to reinstall the cam cover. You should definitely check that before disassembling anything. You were not specific about the location of the leak but my 2005 XC 70 has a similar 5 cylinder engine. There is a small hose from the PCV system that goes into the top of the cam cover in the center of the engine. The hose gets very brittle from exposure to the heat from the engine and it cracks leaving oil on top of the head under the plastic cover plate. It is easy to check to see if that is the source of the oil. I have already had to replace mine twice. Good luck and stay dirty.[/quote]
I know the exact hose you are talking about. It is right next to the oil fill hole. And, yes, I have random oil on top of the engine..It gets plugged up with sludge bits. Should I feel confident in simply wiggling it loose, and maybe using a pipe cleaner or something?
I’ve used thicker viscosity to combat any lost oil while running, as a temporary fix. I love the 5-cyl 20-valve turbo. Has a nice exhaust note, too.
I read it could be a couple of different sources… The oil seems to be right behind the driver side tire. And last time I checked, a leak won’t fix itself without either “stuff in the oil,” thicker oil with seal conditioners, switching AWAY from a synthetic, or replacing the leaking part . .
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[quote=”nightflyr” post=162882]First off checking the basics is a good starting point:
Spark
Fuel
Compression
=========================================================================================================
Is it possible to be out of time …. yes, if the timing belt has lost teeth, or the belt is stretched, or if the tensioner failed causing excessive belt play.If the timing belt has lost some teeth or snapped, you’ll be cranking the pistons, but the cams are not moving.
As I mentioned:
Start with the basics. SFC
Then:
You’ll need to see if your cams are turning.
Then check your timing TDC on cylinder #1[/quote]
Spark
Fuel
[B]COMPRESSION[/B]
Timing
Air.If it has those, it SHOULD start and run.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
Cleared the codes, ratchet cleaned it (yes that is a real thing on Volvos,) began drain/fill on ATF. That fluid looks nasty, but was maybe thinner than what came out of my 2000 (obviously that one had less miles, and was less abused.)
The codes don’t come back on anymore, and there is *slight* improvement in the problem. Too early to tell if its gonna work, but more cleaning, miles, heat, and time is required.
There is still hope.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
This really is a somewhat common thing on these cars.
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160328/1b14aeac157dcba16860c13060dab4bd.jpg[/IMG]
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
I will ultimately find somewhere to perform this: http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12985
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[quote=”coffee412″ post=162597]That is what I am going to do – Total flush.
I just have to figure out what size hose to get my hands on to connect to cooler / trans line. Too bad Eric has not done a show on flushing a trans. on a GM car (??).
Plan to do this really soon. My car has 109k on it and I want to get it out of the way. Next will be a coolent flush 🙂
Thanks for responding.[/quote]
If you have a second car to get to/from wherever you are doing this, you could buy a very small piece of the most likely sizes and see which one fits ? Those lines are not a terribly big diameter. Just be sure to get the RETURN line.. I made a MESS once pulling the wrong one first. On a Camaro.You don’t have too much of an option until you get that new pan with the drain plug on it (stupid GM and most American cars) otherwise. You don’t want to to a drain and fill ?
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[quote=”Crockett85″ post=162475]Hello everyone,
This has been ongoing for about a year and one that I have wasted a ton of money and time trying to diagnose. Hopefully someone out there can point me in the right direction. I will give as much detail as I can to help you. Here it goes…
Model Year: 2012
Make/Brand: Toyota
Complete Model: Tacoma – Base Model – Access Cab
Engine/Transmission/4WD/2WD: 2.7L 4-Cylinder/5 Speed Manual/Part-Time 4WD
Country (market) the car was sold in: British Columbia, Canada
Total Kilometers: ~ 60000 (One year left on lease and power-train warranty)
Driving Habits: Roughly 75% stop-and-go city and 25% highway. I have been the only driver since I got it in June 2012.Symptoms:
Visual
– No check engine light but two stored codes found by shop: P0353 & P0354. However, they have not returned since the shop cleared them back in October last year.
– Poor fuel economy: Used to get 20 mpg city and 23 highway. Has gone down to 18-19 for both city and highway.Feel
– When driving in the correct gear to keep the rpm above 2000, I have to push on the gas more just to maintain speed (~30-40%) on flat terrain. Worse on hills.
– If I attempt to accelerate, I have to push the gas pretty far, which causes a humming and vibration in the steering wheel and seat.
– Intermittent low idle on cold start (1000 instead of 1500 rpm). There were a couple of times when the engine would chug at really low rpm before raising and getting smoother.
– Symptoms more pronounced when truck has been driven for a while and the engine has warmed up.
– If the truck is in motion and I take my foot off the gas,I hear a thump and feel it at the bottom of my seat. The front end tilts forward very slightly. This is followed by a noticeable humming and vibration in the seat and steering wheel. The lower the gear, the more pronounced this is. The backfire usually accompanies this.
– If I press the gas after this happens, the thump occur again before accelerating.
– Idle feels rougher when I turn the A/C or heat on.Sound
– Backfiring that intermittently occurs on cold start and when decelerating in 1st and 2nd gear. Usually I am going too fast in the other gears to hear much.
– Backfiring sounds like an empty coke can being dropped under the truck. When sitting in the driver’s seat, it seems like the sound is coming from under the cab.Smell
– After going up a long mountain highway for about 30 minutes at 3000 rpm and pull over, there is a noticeable burning odor. No signs of burning parts.Warranty Work:
– New clutch at 25000 km due to master/slave cylinder failure and defective LUK clutch kit which is a known pattern failure.
– Front passenger seat weight sensor replaced.Actions Taken:
– Have been to several shops and Toyota dealerships who tell me the same thing: Everything feels and looks normal.
– Power balance test: Passed – engine shook after disconnecting every coil pack.
– New iridium spark plugs with no gap adjustment.
– Routine oil, oil filter, and air filter changes every 6 months.
– New front rotors/pads, and resurfaced rear drums.
– Inspected suspension components and wheel bearings with mechanic and found nothing.What am I thinking about doing next?
– Replacing PCV valve and hose
– Replacing u-joints
– New tires, balancing, and alignment
– Changing transmission, transfer case, and forward/rear differential fluids. I was thinking about checking the differential gears, but there is no way to access them.
– Compression test
– Replacing cylinder 3 and 4 coil packsYes this is a REALLY long list and I am really grateful if you even read this far. However, I really hate throwing parts at problems. I feel that I am in between a rock and a hard place and running out of options. Toyota denies that anything is wrong, and the problems keep creeping up. Is there anything else not listed that I should check or replace? Should I skip anything on my list above?
Thank you in advance!
James[/quote]
You hit on everything except CLOGGED CATALYTIC CONVERTER, which sounds like it could be accounting for SOME of your issues, particularly backfire, and BURNING SMELL. your spark plugs would probably be burned up as well. You can usually even see hot gasses escaping when the car is turned off (wavy air.)Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[quote=”fernando_cunha” post=162572]was wondering if its ok to do compression test on 4 cylinder turbo engine
without the intake manifold and distributor ?
will i get the right psi.
thanks[/quote]
Yes. That’s how you are supposed to do a compression test, though you don’t have to remove the intake manifold.Disable spark (disconecr distributor)
Disable fuel (so its not going into the cylinder while cranking)
HOLD THE GAS PEDAL TO THE FLOOR WHILE THE ENGINE IS TURNING they call this “WOT” or “Wide Open Throttle” THIS PART IS WHY YOU DONT NEED TO REMOVE INTAKE MANIFOLD
Turn engine about 5-7 times.Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
^^ Cool.
On the battery I just now am testing:
1. Took off charger..Battery immediately dropped from 14.25V area of charging to 12.86V fairly fast.
2. Let it sit about 6-8 minutes, charger off of course.. Battery voltage was 12.11V. Car started pretty well. (I did have the key to the “1” position on this Volvo, charging a phone from the power. cigarette lighter port when that happened.)
I now have the car running, and voltage while its running: 14.01-14.04V (this car is 1998 Volvo V70 XC)
Just turned it off and came in and typed this. Immediate voltage at battery after doing so, key back to “1” and charging this phone: 12.94-12.95V.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
[quote=”Nodak81″ post=162557]I’d just assume they WILL find it if you try that. I’m not sure how the system works either but if it does sense the amount coming out the pipe then it will likely be able to tell there’s not enough and there’s an exhaust leak somewhere.
Rule #5 of the Ohio Tailpipe test:
“Ensure the integrity of your exhaust system. Excessive exhaust leaks may cause your vehicle to be rejected from the emissions test and may be dangerous to the vehicle’s occupants.”Personally I find states that do these tests to be a total waste of time and biased against low income people. Rich people drive nice cars with no problems, the rest of us can’t AFFORD to fix our crappy cars, lol.
BTW, be glad you’re not living in Taxachusetts like me, you practically have to keep your car 100% to pass the BS inspections up here.[/quote]
I was gonna say.. It IS 100% condition AFAIK, its as bad as Cali, and I moved out of there over how much stuff they wanted REPLACED for EVERY. LITTLE. THING..Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk
I got the Volvo.
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160327/8450b069d3baabbc5ad8012a99d915ca.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160327/c20103a9b54b26f1b6028a605e16791f.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160327/4cc596ef614ecbbaa63455c28a1cf21e.jpg[/IMG]
I am presently reading all about solenoids. It seems the whole trans may not need to be replaced.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=31531
This link actually has a walk-through.
http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=47779
Also.. Possible dumb Q, though the only dumb Q is one not asked, but. ANY chance a half dozen or so (maybe 4, maybe 8) ATF drain and fills (yes, the Volvo has a bolt specifically for this, yay) will “clean up” the valve body, and a possible stuck CLOSED solenoid (is the electronic control possibly of something stopped up with gunk?)
Thanks.
Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk