Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Have you verified the timing since replacing the guide? Maybe it skipped a tooth or the tension is off. Only thing other than bits floating around the oil I can think of. Unless its a totally unrelated issue.
Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk
A 1 inch spacer would probably not make a meaningfull difference to bearing life, you get deep dish rims that push the outer edge of the tyre further out than an inch to fill out those wide body kits.
If you you install a 5 inch it might very well try and extract the bearing from the hub going down the road, or your drive shaft. But then again if you installing that big a spacer you have bigger issues 🙂Sent from my SM-A510F using Tapatalk
I’ve had this before on some cars especially after extensive brake system work. If it stops ok I would suggest driving carefully on some not so busy roads or a empty parking lot and “bedding in” the braking system. It normally starts building pedal feel. I’m my case normal operation returned after about a 1k km. The brake pads need to compress, master cyclinder and hoses settle, caliper settles. If after that it still behaves badly start looking for leaks sometimes you do get a bad caliper or hose not sealing.
[quote=”Iuserp563″ post=171298]Note,that my car both fans run slow that normal but when i connect them direct to the batery,run more tronger..much more..[/quote]
That sounds like resistance in the power supply to the fans. Check all the connections from the fans to the relays for corrosion and the relays. The contactors on the relays can buildup carbon deposits or “pit” causing a less than ideal current flow path.Its probably the starter. Pull it and have it tested. Over here we normally recondition them but might be cheaper to get a new one where you are.
I made my own breaker bar for stubborn axel nuts back in the day. Its still floating around. I welded an old 1/2″ short extention to a 2m pipe. Its a bit heavy and unwieldy but got the job done every time. Living at the coast is fun ……
If its running as normal when warm but starting from cold is a problem start with the automatic choke setup then move on from there if you still experience issues.
I don’t believe it has a cam position sensor. It probably uses a hall effect sensor in the dizzy to trigger spark. Normally they start getting heat sensitive when failing so cutting out when warm.
I’ve driven a number of Nissans and the ones with electronic locking diffs usually have a whine at highway speeds. Its a highish pitched barely perceptible whine though. Always thought it was “normal” never had a diff failure.
If I take a gearbox out the rear main engine seal gets changed and the gearbox front seal if its accessible. Its also a good time to bench test and clean up the starter.
Start by checking the wiring at the trailer hitch plug sounds like something funky is happening there. The pin outs are standard test them with a DMM. I think a short somewhere is pulling the ground on the trailer up maybe. There is enough resistance to not blow a fuse it seems.
[quote=”2500Avalanche” post=170640]The transmission problems are no longer a concern. the truck was hit tonight as I entered a parking lot by a Toyota carolla, It did substantial damage to the truck hitting in square in the driver’s rear door and rear axle assembly causing axle to shift 8 inches to the passenger side and foward about 6 on the drivers side. So I’m almost certain this vehicle will no longer be operational ever…..It sure is a crying shame that some people treat parking lots like express lines on a freeway.[/quote]
Ouch. Hope you and the occupants are all ok.Those washers sometimes dont seal if you wrench on them a bit to hard. Not saying you did but thats something I’ve run into. Tighten just enough to crush the washer and seal.
It looks like light surface rust. If it were my car I would brush it or rub it down his scotch pad apply some rust converter and spray over that.
Lets see what the other folks have to say.Over here its every 2nd service on most of the service guides. They work on a major and minor service. Every 15k km is a service and every alternate one is a major. So minor is basically engine oil and filter, air filter and plugs. Major is everything else including gearbox and diff.
Hope that helps.