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I agree with wysetech, definitely check the wiring. I just got done fixing an ABS light issue that was intermittent, the wire on this specific SUV, goes near the battery from underneath the battery tray. Right next to the tray, was the power lead, and there was a big gash in the wire that was full of corrosion and poorly connected. I had to replace both wheel bearing hub assemblies due to one bearing being bad, so just replaced both with new abs wheel sensor wires as well. That was the first thing I did. It didn’t fix the issue, but the wire sure did.
Ran into similar issues myself. Do you know what transmission is in it? Does it happen when electronics are under a load? I’m by no means a professional, but I had a limp mode that really beat me down for a while though.
Does it have harsh shifting points, such as reverse and going into park and has really low power after coming to a full stop?
Have you noticed any type of voltage drop? Such as try driving it with the headlights off, turn of the ac fan, see if you get a change. Unfortunately from my personly experience, most will throw out the “replace the transmission.” That would be the last thing I would ever do, personally. I’ve realized that some cars will go into limp mode for something as simple as a brake light switch, bad headlights or brake lights due to massive corrosion. As other generous forum members helped me with mine, it could be a TPS, Coolant temp sensor, possibly bad shift solenoids, MAF sensor, vacuum leaks, literally anything.
Here is one main thing that I have found, and if any others here, please correct me if I’m wrong, it could absolutely even be the voltage regulator of the alternator. Mine was not consistent, whatsover. We are taking massive voltage climbs, low voltage drops, and also it would drop voltage about every 3-4 seconds, meaning i put on. Dvom, ran the engine, and i would lose voltage out of the alternator, load or no load. Ended up replacing the alternator, and is now consistent and stays within a certain range without jumping all over the place. One more thing I would do, is check your grounds. Easy, free, and something you can do relatively quickly.
I do apologize if I’m way off track with this and your current issue, but figured I’d throw some info im there for you. As college man suggested, try to get the codes pulled and post back. Lots of knowledge on this forum! B)
I’m having the exact same issue, except I haven’t replaced the steering gear, or the pitman arm. It’s been like this since I got the vehicle. Does it feel like it has play on the right side as well? Mine does, not a lot, but enough, and mine is also cocked to the right like yours is. If you figure it out, please repost! I will do the same as well. I have a 97 olds bravada, very similar make. Thanks!
Here is a picture, I have to upload the video to a different source, and that will be up soon. The picture is how the steering wheel drives at all time, straight, and aligned
Video:
Thanks college man, I’ve actually checked out that video. Here’s a video of what mine is doing, it may be easier to show than to explain on this one. At the end, that is how the steering wheel “sits” at all times. It’s not pulling, tugging, or bouncing all over. It’s kind of just an annoying thing, and it scares mama when she drives it. As you could see, other than it being off centered, it has play on the right side only. Thank you college man for always offering to help, you’ve been quite the time and labor saver lately.
Thanks everyone
I will let him know, I’m sure he’ll feel a lot better that more than one person agrees that it sounds like it’s the gauge or temp sensor. I have a live data scanner, as soon as we can go for a drive, I’ll post the findings. Thanks!! :side:
Not sure if this will work the way I’m wanting it to, but here is the picture. The boot crumbled quite a bit once I got it pulled off. I actually had to slit one side of the boot carefully (flathead screwdriver worked well) to get it off in fear I’d damage the actual valve.
Will keep posted. B)
Double checked the TPS, thanks for the link, College Man. TPS was good.
Ended up finding a crack and a chunk missing on the underside of the brake booster valve boot (and a hairline crack on the boot that goes to the engine. Im not sure what that part is called) Drove it around a bit and so far so good. I have a lot of driving to do today so if it comes back, I’ll know by this afternoon. I’ll post a picture of the valve boot as soon as I get to my PC for future purposes of others. (Can’t seem to upload from my phone)
Thanks
Ok, so after weeks upon weeks of not being able to fix that p078 issue, I finally got around to really spend some time with it. Unfortunately, I don’t know exactly what I did to fix the issue, but I thought I would share on what I did find.
I got constant and correct voltage at all circuits, fuse was ok, wiring was not showing any visible sign of shorts, melts, or breaks. I did however inspect the pinout that attaches to the top of the transmission. It was wet. Not wet with tranny fluid however, but a dirty water look. Believe it or not, this did occur first shortly after a carwash. I spent some time cleaning and drying the connectors, but with no luck on repair. I then realized that I did put on a new TPS earlier for other reasons non related to this, and decided to double check reference, I took it out and basically started from scratch on that to verify correct readings. I then once again dropped the pan, verified all connections, then noticed my 1-2 solenoid, it was pretty wobbly (I know, I should have paid more attention the first time!!!! Ugh!) So I replaced the solenoids since I had the pan opened once again. Side note, I got a hold of a bi-directional scanner and was able to command the 3-2 solenoid on and off, which then triggered the p078 CEL when it wasnt acting up. I sealed basically all of connectors with grease, and 3m tape. Well, after all of that, the code seemed to not come back. I thought I would at least put something here incase someone runs into the same issue. Now im running into a p0122 code, but thats a whole new topic! 🙂 LIke i said, im sorry for not posting the one true fix, but hopefully this somewhat helps someone in the near future. Thanks again for all of your help everyone!!
Ok guys. So, I checked the 1020 circuit with a line tracer, I have no breaks cuts or anything of that sort on the pink wire from the fuse panel to the transmission harness. Here’s something I did notice though.
It seems this issue is occurring only when the car is completely cold. Only at startup. Kind of leading me to believe that either A it’s a sensor, or B it’s the computer itself like you guys stated above. Once the car gets to operating temperature, the problem goes away and stays away. I also noticed that my oil gauge is dropping during turns and decreasing speed. (I know Im good on the oil amount, as i check periodicaly, and checked once i noticed it was happening) I know that theres a good chance that its probably my oil pressure sensor, but is there any chance that these two things could be related? I’m going to start checking my sensors as stated above. I really appreciate all your time and knowledge.
Wow! Very informative, thank you all very much. I will give it some more testing either tonight or tomorrow morning and post feedback. Again, Thanks!!!!
I checked for voltage at fuse 20, and I am getting 14v out of the fuse, with CIL on and also voltage with the CIL off in the on position. To the above post, I’m going to assume it’s going to be between the fuse panel and the actual wiring to the transmission at this point. I honestly haven’t gotten that far yet to test everything underneath. I see it states to check the 1020 connection, which exactly is this?
