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If anybody cares: The car was towed to the dealer and they first said it never faulted and we should come get it, so we did.
When we got there we pushed for more info and a different tech manager went and talked to the actual tech that looked at it and relayed to use that it did fault once, threw a ton of codes, he cleared them and they never came back and it never faulted again. Then we got the real info, apparently someone had installed a lojack type device in the car and spliced a bunch of wires in to the odb2 port wires and whoever removed it didn’t do a good job of resplicing the original wires back together and the theory is they are the cause of the issues. They wanted $200 to fix it and couldn’t guarantee that would eliminate the problems, but we all agreed it should be done, the car owner, my buddy, pitched a fit however and said that it should have been fixed before they sold the car to him, he’s immensely upset about it since he’s been without a car for 3 weeks now. So, they are now trying to work out if they will fix it for free for him.
Will update if that repairs it or not, but it does seem to be on it’s way to a solution.[quote=”Evil-i” post=169037]2013? Why not take it to the dealer for warranty work?
[/quote]Well because i’m a DIY guy and this is a DIY forum, but also because there is no VW dealership in our city and we all know how much of a pain it can be to take a car to the dealership. If I found out it was a simple fix i’d go ahead and fix it.
Yes, it was the fuel pump. I wasn’t able to post a vid of the repair because the camcorder didn’t like the sd card I used to shoot the 3 hours worth of video and I lost it all! 🙁
Well I ran it the other day to pump it up and blew another fuse, but this time it was on the main main not the one I messed with in the vid. I noticed it too was crusty so I cleaned it up and put in a new fuse and so far it’s running just fine.
Well I ran it the other day to pump it up and blew another fuse, but this time it was on the main main not the one I messed with in the vid. I noticed it too was crusty so I cleaned it up and put in a new fuse and so far it’s running just fine.
Well after messing with the fuel pressure regulator and doing the line pinch tests I ended up with 0psi and decided to replace the pump and sender and now it’s running fine again at 12psi.
I still don’t have psi for more than a few seconds after key off, but it doesn’t seem to matter much.
The sender’s tubes were badly corroded and came apart as soon as I started to undo the fittings, so that may have been a leak issue, no signs of leakage though.
I also did the bed tilt method with great success. It felt dangerous, but then again so does getting under a lifted and secured vehicle period…Well after messing with the fuel pressure regulator and doing the line pinch tests I ended up with 0psi and decided to replace the pump and sender and now it’s running fine again at 12psi.
I still don’t have psi for more than a few seconds after key off, but it doesn’t seem to matter much.
The sender’s tubes were badly corroded and came apart as soon as I started to undo the fittings, so that may have been a leak issue, no signs of leakage though.
I also did the bed tilt method with great success. It felt dangerous, but then again so does getting under a lifted and secured vehicle period…I’m mostly interested in pass/fail tests for the electric motor, like rpm’s.
May try to track down an rpm gauge…I’m mostly interested in pass/fail tests for the electric motor, like rpm’s.
May try to track down an rpm gauge…Another thing I noticed when it does stumble off the line is I lose all vacuum!
Would a hot cat cause more restriction than a cold one?
I do have a thermal camera I can look at the difference in temp, but i’m sure the muffler is fine as there was a piece after cat that had corroded and was open and loud and was having the stumble then too.
I don’t understand how removing the 02 will prove exhaust restriction though, is it because i’m fooling the puter or because i’ve created a hole for exhaust to escape from?